Not getting 12 volts to coil

5 pages on this. These voltage drop discussions are out of control. Look keep it simple. THERE IS ONE WIRE feeding underhood loads. ONE. IT is the dark blue IGN1 "run" wire. if you unhook one load of course it changes, because you have changed the LOAD

Follow the path. I like to call it the "functional path" and was criticized for this, as sometimes I go from battery + even though I was taught "electron flow theory." But the path is a circle from battery + clear around through all the splices, connectors, switches, and components to the ground/ frame/ body/ block and back to battery NEG (Or the other direction if "you must" flow electrons LOL)

So follow the path and check the CONNECTIONS. The ignition switch, the switch connector, the bulhead connector, the ammeter and it's connections, (even the welded splice) and so on. FOLLOW THE PATH

"What is?" the path? On a stocker, and for "run" underhood loads, the path is "pretty much"-------

Battery-------wiring to starter relay stud-------fuse link-------through the bulkhead (ammeter RED)------to and through the ammeter---------out on BLACK to the WELDED SPLICE--------to the ignition switch connector----------through the switch--------back out the connector on dark blue "run"----------through the bulkhead connector----------through the engine harness "WHITE" connector on newer models-------and to various underhood loads, which are simple splices in the harness
What you write is all true.

The question that I see is that he's walked it down to:
a) Excessive drop with key in run.
Is something drawing too much current, a bad connection?
b) Current is flowing with the key in run and the field and ignition disconnected. Why?
Was the idle solenoid disconnected?
c) Current is flowing with the key in 'unlock'. Why?
Was a brake light on? Was an interior light on? Something else? or is the switch messed up?

He's working on a '70 'cuda with a Hemi. Dual point ignition.
Stock but looks like its had some wiring patches/rigged repairs.