1966 Dart 225 with Holley 1920

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Jayman62

Jayman62

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I'm having an issue raising idle on my 1920. I have the idle adjustment screw bottomed out on the screw spring so so can't screw it in further. I need just a bit more rpm to stop it from stalling when I put in gear. Could the timing be off? I have it set about 2 degrees btdc. Fill confession, I did the rebuild of the carb, other than the idle issue only other issue is a bog if I jam the pedal from a stop. Otherwise it runs fine. Only issue during rebuilding was I coyld not get out the checkballs.
20210704_121017.jpg


Thank you for any advice.
 
Jayman62 said:
I'm having an issue raising idle on my 1920. I have the idle adjustment screw bottomed out on the screw spring so so can't screw it in further. I need just a bit more rpm to stop it from stalling when I put in gear. Could the timing be off? I have it set about 2 degrees btdc. Fill confession, I did the rebuild of the carb, other than the idle issue only other issue is a bog if I jam the pedal from a stop. Otherwise it runs fine. Only issue during rebuilding was I coyld not get out the checkballs.View attachment 1715761728

Thank you for any advice.
Click to expand...
This is one for Rob! My initial thought is the carb is way too rich if you need to bury the mixture screw. Checkballs should easily fall out. If they don't, then gunk is keeping them stuck and that should be resolved. Also, 2* before is way too little. Your poor lil engine would be much happier with more timing, and that would resolve the stalling problem.
 
Jayman62 said:
I'm having an issue raising idle on my 1920. I have the idle adjustment screw bottomed out on the screw spring so so can't screw it in further. I need just a bit more rpm to stop it from stalling when I put in gear. Could the timing be off? I have it set about 2 degrees btdc. Fill confession, I did the rebuild of the carb, other than the idle issue only other issue is a bog if I jam the pedal from a stop. Otherwise it runs fine. Only issue during rebuilding was I coyld not get out the checkballs.View attachment 1715761728

Thank you for any advice.
Click to expand...
The screw on the top is the fast idle screw it appears. (not the curb idle)
 
Black top screw cold choke on fast idle,rest on fast idle linkage. White choke off hot curb idle rest on carb body
 
bump up your timing . i run 8- 10 on slant six at idle not to exceed 32 all in mechanical , this will increase your rpm and vacuum at idle
 
Early a body said:
bump up your timing . i run 8- 10 on slant six at idle not to exceed 32 all in mechanical , this will increase your rpm and vacuum at idle
Click to expand...
I was leaning towards a possible issue with the timing, I'll try your suggestion, so that's 8 to 10 BTDC? I keep seeing different settings, one site says set at TDC for 60s slants another said 2 btdc.
 
Jayman62 said:
I was leaning towards a possible issue with the timing, I'll try your suggestion, so that's 8 to 10 BTDC? I keep seeing different settings, one site says set at TDC for 60s slants another said 2 btdc.
Click to expand...


Those are the factory settings made for grandma's car, IMO, but now we are driving grandmas car so we can mess around with them a little bit more. Bring it up to 5 and see what happens take it for a spin see if you hear any pinging, you should not, then bring it up to either 8 or 10 degrees. If you have not done this before make sure you are using a good dial back or digital timing light, make sure the distributor vacuum advance is disconnected . Make sure to run the rpms up to 3000 rpm to ensure your mechanical advance does not exceed 32 degrees. That should improve your idle quality.
 
Went threw the core pile, idle screws all same lenght, but all longer than choke idle screws, thread pitch the same

lenght.jpg
 
toolmanmike said:
The one with the washer is the curb idle screw but it is the wrong screw. That's a screw for a fender or a bracket. Idle screws don't have washers
Click to expand...

Yeah, they do, on the '64-up Holley 1920. That washer is what nudges the bowl vent operating link to open the bowl vent when the throttle lever returns to idle. Speaking of the throttle lever, the one on this carburetor is bent so what's meant to be the curb idle screw contacting the carb body ahead of the fast idle cam is instead contacting the fast idle cam, and what's meant to be the fast-idle screw contacting the fast idle cam is instead contacting thin air aft of the cam. Grasp the throttle lever with suitable pliers and bend it back the way it's supposed to be.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post. If you're going to pick an I-guess-that's-about-right ignition timing setting, use 5° BTDC.
 
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slantsixdan said:
Yeah, they do, on the '64-up Holley 1920. That washer is what nudges the bowl vent operating link to open the bowl vent when the throttle lever returns to idle. Speaking of the throttle lever, the one on this carburetor is bent so what's meant to be the curb idle screw contacting the carb body ahead of the fast idle cam is instead contacting the fast idle cam, and what's meant to be the fast-idle screw contacting the fast idle cam is instead contacting thin air aft of the cam. Grasp the throttle lever with suitable pliers and bend it back the way it's supposed to be.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post.
Click to expand...
Wow, That's pretty funky! Thanks for the information links Dan.
 
slantsixdan said:
Yeah, they do, on the '64-up Holley 1920. That washer is what nudges the bowl vent operating link to open the bowl vent when the throttle lever returns to idle. Speaking of the throttle lever, the one on this carburetor is bent so what's meant to be the curb idle screw contacting the carb body ahead of the fast idle cam is instead contacting the fast idle cam, and what's meant to be the fast-idle screw contacting the fast idle cam is instead contacting thin air aft of the cam. Grasp the throttle lever with suitable pliers and bend it back the way it's supposed to be.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post. If you're going to pick an I-guess-that's-about-right ignition timing setting, use 5° BTDC.
Click to expand...
 
slantsixdan said:
Yeah, they do, on the '64-up Holley 1920. That washer is what nudges the bowl vent operating link to open the bowl vent when the throttle lever returns to idle. Speaking of the throttle lever, the one on this carburetor is bent so what's meant to be the curb idle screw contacting the carb body ahead of the fast idle cam is instead contacting the fast idle cam, and what's meant to be the fast-idle screw contacting the fast idle cam is instead contacting thin air aft of the cam. Grasp the throttle lever with suitable pliers and bend it back the way it's supposed to be.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post. If you're going to pick an I-guess-that's-about-right ignition timing setting, use 5° BTDC.
Click to expand...
Thanks Dan. When you say the lever is bent are you referring to my photo in the original post? Also want to thank you for all your valuable assistance. and others, in this forum. I have come to rely on your vast knowledge.

Jay
 
Yes, that's the photo I mean. Grasp the throttle lever where you see the green dot here and bend it forward so the screws contact their correct locations as previously described.

20210704_121017.jpg
 
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