Blueprint 408 cooling system questions.

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150 IN THE LIFE OF A STREET CAR WOULD PROBLY BE PRONE TO MORE AIR POLUTION , AND NOT GETTING HOT ENOUGH TO KEEP MOISTURE OUT OF YOUR OIL ! HELL my mufflers sweat more than that .


Not if you can get the tune up correct. Most of the pollution comes from wet fuel running into the chambers and either not burning completely or burning so late that it runs EGT’s and head temps through the roof and burns in the header.
 
One of the problems I have found with w/pumps, in different brands of engines, is that there is too much gap between the impeller vanes & the housing. This gap leaves a space for the liquid to escape, instead of being captured by the vanes & pumped through the engine. Obviously, the larger this gap is, the more liquid escapes & the less efficient the cooling is. I weld a thin donut shape piece of steel to the impeller to close off the gap & this always gives a noticeable reduction in temp.

EXACTLY.

Before I realized you can make a plate and rivet it to the impeller I used to mill the timing cover down until the impeller just touched the cover and used the gasket for clearance.

Of course, that changes pulley alignment but you do what you have to.

Now you can buy the pump with the plate on it so much less screwing around.
 
Not if you can get the tune up correct. Most of the pollution comes from wet fuel running into the chambers and either not burning completely or burning so late that it runs EGT’s and head temps through the roof and burns in the header.

I dont jave that problem either !
 
Wow. I’m sort of impressed and overwhelmed with all the advice everyone has given on here. So it’s finally getting warm enough in Colorado, and as many of you predicted, there isn’t a big change in operating temp. I removed the hood, and it did make a difference. But after long drives, it still gets to about 205 ish cruising. The next logical step I think is the lighter advance springs, and hopefully, that helps. The Engine came as a long block, so no water pump, or intake even. It still does diesel in hot weather, but if you let it idle a bit before you shut it off it seems to not do it. Another problem I have is I can’t get the carburetor properly dialed in even with the timing at 16 degrees. I have even drilled 1/8 inch holes in the throttle plates, and I still have to open the plates too far to get a stable idle. Another problem is it seems to run out of fuel really quickly when you step on it hard, and it’s only when the engine is hot it does that. That clear fuel filter before the carb is empty while running. I don’t know where to start on this honestly.
 
Wow. I’m sort of impressed and overwhelmed with all the advice everyone has given on here. So it’s finally getting warm enough in Colorado, and as many of you predicted, there isn’t a big change in operating temp. I removed the hood, and it did make a difference. But after long drives, it still gets to about 205 ish cruising. The next logical step I think is the lighter advance springs, and hopefully, that helps. The Engine came as a long block, so no water pump, or intake even. It still does diesel in hot weather, but if you let it idle a bit before you shut it off it seems to not do it. Another problem I have is I can’t get the carburetor properly dialed in even with the timing at 16 degrees. I have even drilled 1/8 inch holes in the throttle plates, and I still have to open the plates too far to get a stable idle. Another problem is it seems to run out of fuel really quickly when you step on it hard, and it’s only when the engine is hot it does that. That clear fuel filter before the carb is empty while running. I don’t know where to start on this honestly.
So its fair to say....this really isnt a cooling, or overheating thread. It's a timing, ignition, fuel delivery, carburetor tuning thread. Not busting chops, but sounds like you need an old school shop, or a buddy, that can really help dial this in. From the sound of it, you are FAR from knowing if you have any kind of cooling issues whatsoever?
 
Do you have a new fuel pump, water pump on there and what pump is it?
(A picture if you don’t know is just fine.)
 
Must have given up, hasn’t been back since his last post in this thread.
 
Must have given up, hasn’t been back since his last post in this thread.
Hopefully got it figured out. Was hard to decipher if there was actually a problem or not....then when it starts as a bare longblock....makes it that much tougher to determine cooling system....carb tune up....even intake choice.
 
Hopefully got it figured out. Was hard to decipher if there was actually a problem or not....then when it starts as a bare longblock....makes it that much tougher to determine cooling system....carb tune up....even intake choice.

why would you say that?
Right in his first post he said exactly what was going on.
And later in the thread he said what he was told when he called for help…that what he was seeing was..” normal” for a new motor.
That was the dumbest response i have ever heard. Extremely poor advice and or knowledge
 
why would you say that?
Right in his first post he said exactly what was going on.
And later in the thread he said what he was told when he called for help…that what he was seeing was..” normal” for a new motor.
That was the dumbest response i have ever heard. Extremely poor advice and or knowledge
I would agree the heat during driving being related to break-in is incorrect. I would assume that is a miscommunication referencing how engines going through cam break-in regularly don't see enough timing at low RPM, and that can lead to increased Temps.

The rest of the thread bounces around trying to diag everything from a dieseling carb, to distributor advance, to cooling system. And those items were not supplied or tested with the engine.

I will point out that 205, on a 50 year old factory temp gauge, isn't a good sole indicator of if it was actually overheating.

I am happy to work with him if he ever gets back on. Anyone that has dealt with me on the forum is well aware I'm more than willing to help anyone.
 
Did he ever put a 20 dollar infra red temp gun on it?
 
Did he ever put a 20 dollar infra red temp gun on it?
At some point in the thread he did. 200 on the water neck I believe. So much going on in here. Total timing not coming in until 4000+ rpm...a copper/brass radiator, no shroud, carb issues, dieseling...on and on. Would like to help him get it figured out, if he gets back on.
 
At some point in the thread he did. 200 on the water neck I believe. So much going on in here. Total timing not coming in until 4000+ rpm...a copper/brass radiator, no shroud, carb issues, dieseling...on and on. Would like to help him get it figured out, if he gets back on.

4000 is really high. Either he doesn't have enough initial or he needs to limit total. If he needs more initial, that right there could solve the whole problem. Oh well.
 
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Not if you can get the tune up correct. Most of the pollution comes from wet fuel running into the chambers and either not burning completely or burning so late that it runs EGT’s and head temps through the roof and burns in the header.

disagree, all exhaust systems sweat upon start up !
 
It’s obvious the guy doesn’t spend much time here and that his level of tuning, diagnostic skills and willingness/required involvement may not be enough to sort things out. He did state that he didn’t know where to start.....You can’t focus on temperatures if the fuel delivery, carb settings and timing aren’t dialed in to where it runs consistently. That’s where I’d start. Sounds like a mess to me
 
why would you say that?
Right in his first post he said exactly what was going on.
And later in the thread he said what he was told when he called for help…that what he was seeing was..” normal” for a new motor.
That was the dumbest response i have ever heard. Extremely poor advice and or knowledge
As you have said essentially the same thing in previous posts here and elsewhere and just to Play Devil’s Advocate: what would You have told the guy if you answered the tech line phone and he told you whatever his problems he was having were? I’m not trying to be a defender of or cheerleader for anyone here but you, others here, or myself would never have called if we were having this issue. We know the process of tuning and getting to the bottom of things. I don’t expect any company on a first call to go right to all hands on deck, all in full attention to me with my problem. Whoever this guy talked to, how he talked to them, we have no idea. It’s obvious who ever answered the call gave the most basic, top of the list, easy and quickest response and off the guy went. I wouldnt expect on a first call to anyplace for them to stop the presses, turn the spotlight on me and let’s spend hours and possibly days holding my hand as we work backwards to the point of finding that I didn’t even have my timing, fueling etc. sorted out first. I expect (because that’s what you get these days) to get the short and quick on a first date (call) to a techline. Again, not defending, just being realistic. I’m just wondering what you as the tech would have asked the guy, or expected to hear from the techline if you called?
 
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For a refresher this is What the OP said in an earlier post regarding what he was told:

“So it turns out that blueprint engines run hotter during break-in. I got ahold of a service guy there, and he said 210-220 is typically what they run during break in, and after about 500-1000 miles should slowly come down to 180 degrees”

That’s it. Sounds to me like a service guy stalling the guy for 500-1000 miles before he likely calls back. Did he? Who knows:rolleyes:
 
For a refresher this is What the OP said in an earlier post regarding what he was told:

“So it turns out that blueprint engines run hotter during break-in. I got ahold of a service guy there, and he said 210-220 is typically what they run during break in, and after about 500-1000 miles should slowly come down to 180 degrees”

That’s it. Sounds to me like a service guy stalling the guy for 500-1000 miles before he likely calls back. Did he? Who knows:rolleyes:

i can only speak for myself, but the above isn't anything i have ever seen in my lifetime with any engine i have ever had.
I consider it a stupid statement the rep made, like a go away and don't come back…
This board is about honest opinions( i hope)..i stated mine…
The company that made the engine isnt immune from my opinion. I am a horrible politician. I say what i think.
The customer was given dumb, lousy word salad. …the engine is honestly gonna run 40 degrees cooler after it breaks in?…yea, OK
 
i can only speak for myself, but the above isn't anything i have ever seen in my lifetime with any engine i have ever had.
I consider it a stupid statement the rep made, like a go away and don't come back…
This board is about honest opinions( i hope)..i stated mine…
The company that made the engine isnt immune from my opinion. I am a horrible politician. I say what i think.
The customer was given dumb, lousy word salad. …the engine is honestly gonna run 40 degrees cooler after it breaks in?…yea, OK
I think I mentioned agreeing with you early on. On the surface it is like a “get off the phone” kick the can down the road deal, and unfortunately pretty typical of service anywhere these days! Just a rhetorical question on my part:)
 
For a refresher this is What the OP said in an earlier post regarding what he was told:

“So it turns out that blueprint engines run hotter during break-in. I got ahold of a service guy there, and he said 210-220 is typically what they run during break in, and after about 500-1000 miles should slowly come down to 180 degrees”

That’s it. Sounds to me like a service guy stalling the guy for 500-1000 miles before he likely calls back. Did he? Who knows:rolleyes:

Was it crap advice if it was actually given that way? Yes. Is the thread about a tech call? No. And reading the thread, as you note in post 116 and 117....where do ya even start...

Point blank, anyone here is welcome to reach out to us for help. If you feel the info isn't correct, you all have access to me, or ask for the head tech, Ken.
Not excusing bad info, but these 8 page threads, where the OP vanishes, and someone with no first hand experience with the company decides to take over, lose all effectiveness, and just turn into speculative nonsense.

unfortunate some with no first hand experience with BluePrint will read a thread like this and form opinions, but it is what it is. Always looking for ways to be better. discussing with the tech guys where info like the above came from, will only make us better in the long run.
 
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So far @Johnny Mac has always been up front, close at hand, ready, willing and able to answer all questions and when faced with a question he can not answer he has always come back with one from his tech guys or his bosses in corporate (for lack of better words) with answers to production, future plans or part delays/rejections etc…..

IMO, there is no one else that is more proactive and participating in the forum as a regular member and representative front man here on the forum (and for blueprint engines) as Johnny Mac. Other vendors have also been really really good to us but Johnny Mac is a stand out IMO.

Johnny may not be a top tuner and racer with all the answers to every question asked but dang it if he doesn’t try for you. No one here is perfect and in the world at large that demand it as a norm. That would be great to have but truly impossible to obtain by anyone.

Brow beating, nit picking and complaining doesn’t help here. What would help is the been there and done that guy’s (even more so with the product at hand) chime in and help the OP.
 
Was it crap advice if it was actually given that way? Yes. Is the thread about a tech call? No. And reading the thread, as you note in post 116 and 117....where do ya even start...

Point blank, anyone here is welcome to reach out to us for help. If you feel the info isn't correct, you all have access to me, or ask for the head tech, Ken.
Not excusing bad info, but these 8 page threads, where the OP vanishes, and someone with no first hand experience with the company decides to take over, lose all effectiveness, and just turn into speculative nonsense.

unfortunate some with no first hand experience with BluePrint will read a thread like this and form opinions, but it is what it is. Always looking for ways to be better. discussing with the tech guys where info like the above came from, will only make us better in the long run.

Just want to put my two cents in the hat. @Johnny Mac helped me out when he had no obligation to do so. I know for certain from first hand experience they stand behind their products.
 
So far @Johnny Mac has always been up front, close at hand, ready, willing and able to answer all questions and when faced with a question he can not answer he has always come back with one from his tech guys or his bosses in corporate (for lack of better words) with answers to production, future plans or part delays/rejections etc…..

IMO, there is no one else that is more proactive and participating in the forum as a regular member and representative front man here on the forum (and for blueprint engines) as Johnny Mac. Other vendors have also been really really good to us but Johnny Mac is a stand out IMO.

Johnny may not be a top tuner and racer with all the answers to every question asked but dang it if he doesn’t try for you. No one here is perfect and in the world at large that demand it as a norm. That would be great to have but truly impossible to obtain by anyone.

Brow beating, nit picking and complaining doesn’t help here. What would help is the been there and done that guy’s (even more so with the product at hand) chime in and help the OP.

ME THINKS HE IS A PRETTY GOOD TUNER AND A FART SMELLER , OOPS A SMART FELLER !
 
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