67 barracuda with a 383, need help!

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Redfoxestco

Redfoxestco

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Hey all,

I need help sorting out a radiator issue. I had an OEM one with two electric fans and the it would overheat pretty much after 10 minutes in SoCal. I’ve got 5 inches of space to work with, any recommendations for a radiator / electric fan combo? I ordered from Summit, received one that didn’t fit the first time and second time received the wrong one in box. 383 w/ ps, a/c, the works. Thank you in advance for your recommendations!!

20386BEC-312C-4713-8F5D-E68FD96DC2C4.jpeg
 
Assuming your OEM rad was in good shape it was not the issue.

Ditch the electric fans and go back to a stock fixed 7 blade and shroud setup with OEM HP cooling radiator.

I'm assuming all of the pulleys and water pump are correct for the application
 
Dana67Dart said:
Assuming your OEM rad was in good shape it was not the issue.

Ditch the electric fans and go back to a stock fixed 7 blade and shroud setup with OEM HP cooling radiator.

I'm assuming all of the pulleys and water pump are correct for the application
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Was OEM but not an original 383 car. Would an OEM for a 383 67 work? Thank you for your advice!
 
There are so many unknowns here.

But I can tell you that when I started reading your post before I got to electric fan I thought he has electric fans.

Just lookup in the parts book for your year car and research the pulleys, the water pump, the fan and the radiator and shroud for HP cooling / AC cooling.

And start looking for the parts, whether used or rebuilt or new.

Basically the factory would not make a car that could not survive in stop and go trafic in so cal or Arizona for that mater.
 
I agree with Dana, BUT cost of oem rad for a 67 383 may be pricey tho. An aftermarket may be your best bet for the $$.
And you definitely need a shroud.
 
I have a nice brand new 19" six blade fan and heavy duty fan clutch in the for sale section if you have the room for it.
 
Is the spring still inside your lower radiator hose?
 
When you say overheat, did it actually boil over?

What degree thermostat is in it?
 
Daves69 said:
And did he happen to pressure test the system for leakage?
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He hasn’t pressure tested it yet, but first my heater core went out and then my temp would run to the far right side after 15 minutes. Following that I lost a freeze plug… so started from the ground up. Replacing heater core, pressure testing, sourcing right parts etc. I won’t be getting to it for a minute following an accident but trying to be prepared when I do
 
I got one from derale that included the shroud, they include the measurements in their catalog, it made a huge difference in my application.
 
As Dana67Dart said there are many unknowns here and the factory would not make a car that wouldn’t run cool in severe heat.

I suggest that before you start throwing money at it you start by analyzing the problem.

Use a heat gun. Mine is a digital read out $40 Ryobi from Home Depot.

With the engine cold “shoot” the thermostat housing and the top and bottom of the radiator.

Then start the engine and, with repeated “shots” of the thermostat housing, you should be able to know if, when and at what temp the thermostat opens. You will then also know exactly where 180, 190 and 200 are on the dash gauge.

Also shoot the temperature across various points of the radiator, including the upper, lower and side tanks. A cooler area in the core, or in a tank, indicates blockage. A common problem with calcium deposits in SoCal recycled water. Below is a photo.

Turn on the heater and look for the appropriate temp change. Ditto with the AC off and on. Listen for the click of the fan clutch and a slight drop in rpm.

Turn up the idle to 1800 rpm and again check temps on the thermostat, water pump and in and out of the radiator.

Put it on paper and you will know if your problem is insufficient water flow or insufficient air at hot idle.
CAD8FE91-E0B7-43C8-923E-F760D7E23944.jpeg
 
another thing, based on the picture above, is to make sure the cooling system has been serviced and not clogged. the method winorbust is a good way to isolate the problem.

Earlier on my build I had also a cooling problem, for starters my original radiator was too small for the 426 stroker, I got a used tri core radiator with an electric fan and turned out to be severely clogged, had it open, serviced and still did not coool enough on city stop and go traffic and also dripping cooland everytime I parked. the next step was to add a 25lbs cap and get a fan with a shroud, and a high flow thermostat. My engine runs cool now.

if you have an upgraded cam check also the timing, if its too advanced at idle it may overheat in stop-and-go traffic too.
 
Ivan Baez said:
another thing, based on the picture above, is to make sure the cooling system has been serviced and not clogged. the method winorbust is a good way to isolate the problem.

Earlier on my build I had also a cooling problem, for starters my original radiator was too small for the 426 stroker, I got a used tri core radiator with an electric fan and turned out to be severely clogged, had it open, serviced and still did not coool enough on city stop and go traffic and also dripping cooland everytime I parked. the next step was to add a 25lbs cap and get a fan with a shroud, and a high flow thermostat. My engine runs cool now.

if you have an upgraded cam check also the timing, if its too advanced at idle it may overheat in stop-and-go traffic too.
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Make sure you have the correct blades on your pump and pulley size.
 
Ivan Baez said:
I have a high volume waterpump from edelbrock. Pulley size is stock.
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You may need to slow the water flow down a bit. Water running to fast is not having enough time to cool in the radiator. (stock pump or / and, larger pulley) Gutting the thermostat while installed could also help.
 
I'm with the slow it down crowd
Run you finger through the flame of a candle, fast and you do not get burnt (very little heat transfer) slow and you get burnt (a lot of heat transfer)
 
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