383 sits crooked in engine bay

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royslead

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Bpught a 73 Dart Sport as a project. Engine was already installed, and had been a running, driving car until the former owner took it all part for paint work. Anyways, the engine was sitting crooked, bolted in place, approximately 1/2 lower on the Driver's side. Looking at the K-frame, on the Driver's side, it makes perfect sense as to why, as I can see that difference. There is a single mounting "ear" at the top rear of the k-frame engine mount, then about a 1/2 to 3/4 " lower, is an opening for a through bolt (front and rear of the same mount), into which, the bolt holding the engine and frame mounts together was installed. Maybe later, I can post a pic of what I am talking about, but I already have the engine out of the car. Any ideas? Wrong K-frame? Wrong engine mounts? how to fix?
 
The K frame should look something like this.

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My big block conversion needs one more small piece and then it is finished. Test fit a 383 and a 440 on this k frame.
 
MoparLeo said:
Not the wrong K-frame as there was no factory big block option in the 70's. Just an incorrect mount adapter install.
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Well, right, but isn't there a V8 and a /6 K-frame; and would you not need at least the V8 K-frame to start with? Or, is the typical conversion performed with some type of "cut the old ones off and weld on these" type of adapters? I don't know, as I don't know anyone that has done this, nor have I ever seen one that is done. My toys have all been small blocks, and quite honestly, I'm getting frustrated with this seemingly never ending cobble job of a car. I'm seriously considering scrapping the big block and putting in a small block.
 
My Father put a 383 in a 71 Dart on top of the /6 k-frame (car is for sale). He used the schumacher motor mount conversion kit. The instructions said to cut an upper rear corner off the driver side motor mount box to clear the way for the mounting ears on the block. It is tight but it works and sits very level.
 
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The upper photo is of my K-frame. It looks to me, as if there was an ear on top of the forward portion of the driver's mount, the engine would sit level, as that would put it the same height as the passenger side. Instead, the bolt that goes through the engine mount also goes through the holes in the lower portion of the mount, putting the engine in a crooked position. The other pictures are of the mounts I have, as installed on the engine. Maybe, I should just fabricate and weld an extension, to match the rear "ear" of the driver's mount?
 
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So it’s not actually crocked it’s just lower on the drivers side. Not sure why he did that. Could be for exhaust clearance. The K frame mount should have both ears like the passenger side. May have had oil pump interference. Those may not be Schumacher mounts. There is another brand out there that doesn’t fit as good. I can’t think of the name. Kim
 
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Looks like the previous owner purposely made the left side sit lower. Maybe for valve cover clearance under the power brake booster, perhaps?
 
Soooo, just a thought. Weld up all the holes and then re drill up 1/2” or what the difference is. A lot of these conversions are done in a private persons garage using what ever parts and knowledge they had at that time. What worked for one person may not be to the standards of the next. That is “hot Rodding” taking a car and making it faster how you want. Now you bought the car like that. Don’t expect it to be perfect to your likes. The car is 40+ years old and who knows how many people have touched it.
 
I thought of clearance issues, maybe it was exhaust related, as the car had I'll fitted headers. It doesn't have power brakes. I'll probably weld an ear on.
 
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i think cutting that ear off is part of the mod...look for directions on the schmacher site...
 
69KillerFish said:
My Father put a 383 in a 71 Dart on top of the /6 k-frame (car is for sale). He used the schumacher motor mount conversion kit. The instructions said to cut an upper rear corner off the driver side motor mount box to clear the way for the mounting ears on the block. It is tight but it works and sits very level.
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Same thing I did. It is hard to get the Shumacher stuff now, Ithink they sold the company.
 
From what I read, you have to cut the corner on the early k frames, that use biscuit mounts. I didn't see anything regarding the newer ones withe the perch style mount. I'll just fab a repair type bracket and weld it in.
 
Where it was sitting did the oil filter hit the k? Looked as though it rubbed. While adjusting heights from right to left it may be a good time to check overall height.
 
Biscuit mount frame perches were trimmed to clear oil pump.
 
DC Dart said:
Where it was sitting did the oil filter hit the k? Looked as though it rubbed. While adjusting heights from right to left it may be a good time to check overall height.
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It may have been hitting the frame, which again begs to question- what were they thinking? In order for the engine to sit level, the engine mount through bolt should be in the ear that is present, and the one that is not. Putting it into the holes that were drilled, tips the engine down on the drivers side, decreasing clearance between the engine and frame, cocking the whole drivetrain, and puts undue stress on all the mounts, including the trans. Does anyone know if there is a clearance issue with the Mopar cast aluminum valve covers and the non-power brake master cylinders? They were not on the engine , but we're in the trunk.
 
Looking at your pictures of engine mounts engine side. The driver side looks to hang lower. Looks like taller ears would hit pump. The DC style k member moves that part of the k frame mount back. Giving oil pump room.
So the hole in the mount or the trimming of the ear may be necessary with that conversation mount. You could possibly die grind the saddle on passenger side to lower as well as raise driver a little depending on the existing height.
I think it's Schumacher type mount so a few people on this site should have actual experience with this mount.
 
Normally installing the Schumacher kit would have you cut both parts of that driver side saddle off. The driver side mount is longer because the saddle has to be cut for oil pump clearance. I am assuming that the mount was just sitting in the rear slot and not down where it was supposed to be. Just use the lower holes and the engine should be close to correct.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Normally installing the Schumacher kit would have you cut both parts of that driver side saddle off. The driver side mount is longer because the saddle has to be cut for oil pump clearance. I am assuming that the mount was just sitting in the rear slot and not down where it was supposed to be. Just use the lower holes and the engine should be close to correct.
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No, the bolt that holds the engine to the frame, was in the two "drilled" holes. It was not on the top ear, thus, the engine sat about 1/2 to 3/4" lower on the drivers side.But, I'm wondering, if the Shumacher kit calls for cutting the ears off, and using that hole, if I can play with the mounts a bit and get it more "level." I fail to see how lowering the engine on the Driver's side, helps with oil pump and filter clearance.
 
Maybe the holes were drilled to low. There's a reason that I never liked the Schumacher kit for the late V8 k-member, and that's it. There are a few ways to fix it, including cutting the saddle off and welding it on a little higher...
 
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