Guys, where's my Zerk fitting?

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cruiser

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Gentlemen: I just installed a new front end kit in my very stock 1974 Duster (225 engine). It is a completely stock rebuild. I went to grease the Zerk fittings, and I noticed that the new lower ball joints don't have a grease fitting. How can this be? All the other front end components have grease fittings, but the lower ball joints don't ( see photos of the old ball joint, and the new one). How can this thing work properly if it isn't lubricated? Any ideas out there? Thanks - cruiser

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A lot of companies are doing that now. Their reasoning is that no one ever greases their suspension anymore, so they stopped including a way to do it to save themselves money. That's why I buy only front end parts with fittings. I have added to in some instances, but you have to be careful. Not every part will accept that and you sometimes damage them when you attempt it. You "can" get a needle fitting and put grease in through the boot, but that really does little to get it in the joint itself.

This is a prime example of why I preach over and over and over and over not to buy parts in "kits". You always end up at someone else's mercy when it comes to parts choices and they always choose the cheapest parts. When you choose, you can pick the parts you want with the features you need. It only costs a little more to do that.
 
Gentlemen: I just installed a new front end kit in my very stock 1974 Duster (225 engine). It is a completely stock rebuild. I went to grease the Zerk fittings, and I noticed that the new lower ball joints don't have a grease fitting. How can this be? All the other front end components have grease fittings, but the lower ball joints don't ( see photos of the old ball joint, and the new one). How can this thing work properly if it isn't lubricated? Any ideas out there? Thanks - cruiser

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It amazes me that you did not notice that before you put them in?
 
This has been going on in some form for decades. Hell since I was young (I'm 73) since THE SEVENTIES parts such as ball joints came with PLUGS OEM you had to remove and install zerks to grease them.

I'm not saying that I'm pleased to find NO zerk access................
 
EPA is a player in this. Back in there day, owners would go for "oil and lube" every 3K miles. Everything got over greased until boots ruptured. Then gobs of grease washed into storm drains. I dont know how much difference in metals and boot todays parts have but they are factory loaded with synthetic grease and sealed. "Oil change" every 6K miles no longer includes "lube". I like it. I can go under a later model with 300K miles and not find gobs of grease hanging everywhere.
 
EPA is a player in this. Back in there day, owners would go for "oil and lube" every 3K miles. Everything got over greased until boots ruptured. Then gobs of grease washed into storm drains. I dont know how much difference in metals and boot todays parts have but they are factory loaded with synthetic grease and sealed. "Oil change" every 6K miles no longer includes "lube". I like it. I can go under a later model with 300K miles and not find gobs of grease hanging everywhere.

I agree about the newer cars, but I don't think reproduction parts for a fifty plus year old car will have high dollar synthetic grease. I think they'll have the cheapest crap in them money can buy since it's a kit and they cut every possible corner known to man in the name of profit.
 
I agree about the newer cars, but I don't think reproduction parts for a fifty plus year old car will have high dollar synthetic grease. I think they'll have the cheapest crap in them money can buy since it's a kit and they cut every possible corner known to man in the name of profit.
I can't argue since I wont cut a new part open to see what type of grease is in it. There isn't 2 whole tablespoons of any type grease in a ball joint.
 
I agree about the newer cars, but I don't think reproduction parts for a fifty plus year old car will have high dollar synthetic grease. I think they'll have the cheapest crap in them money can buy since it's a kit and they cut every possible corner known to man in the name of profit.

Not so, those efforts are directed specifically to increase the value of the parts you buy. (Turn off sarcasm now).
 
I can't argue since I wont cut a new part open to see what type of grease is in it. There isn't 2 whole tablespoons of any type grease in a ball joint.

I have no doubt of that.
 
EPA is a player in this. Back in there day, owners would go for "oil and lube" every 3K miles. Everything got over greased until boots ruptured. Then gobs of grease washed into storm drains. I dont know how much difference in metals and boot todays parts have but they are factory loaded with synthetic grease and sealed. "Oil change" every 6K miles no longer includes "lube". I like it. I can go under a later model with 300K miles and not find gobs of grease hanging everywhere.
As a mechanic for a living I can say the non serviceable steering parts need replacement by 100,000 miles.
 
^^Around here^^, and especially, "then" most of them did, zerk or no
 
How many of us will drive our classic cars 100K??? Not me!! I'd say maybe 5 percent.
Up here because I cant drive mine in the winter I daily drive it from the time I put it on the road till 1st snow but I am the exception to the rule. I only want to change parts one time if I can help it. I had 300,000 miles on my Corvette when I sold it a few years ago.
 
You run the risk of getting metal shavings into the joint!???

I don't know about that. Years ago there was a TSB that covered drilling out some bleed in a carburetor with the carb assembled, on the car. The TSB said coat the bit with multimileage lubricant to capture the chips and drill it out. I've tried that trick a number of times over the years with mixed success. It seems to work better with smaller holes than larger holes.
 
I don't know about that. Years ago there was a TSB that covered drilling out some bleed in a carburetor with the carb assembled, on the car. The TSB said coat the bit with multimileage lubricant to capture the chips and drill it out. I've tried that trick a number of times over the years with mixed success. It seems to work better with smaller holes than larger holes.

I've drilled and tapped spark plug holes for helicoils before with the head on. Looked into the cylinder with a boreoscope and not narry a metal chip. Filling the drill bit and tap flutes with grease is an age old trick. It defies gravity even. The chips fall right into the grease and stay right there.
 
drill a hole and screw one in

It depends on how it's made. I've boogered up a ball joint or two doing that and it wasn't because I drilled too far in. If they're not made a certain way, you'll damage the bottom of the stud ball and the bearing inside.
 
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