SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
What is the latest or best compound for protecting cams - lifters - cranks etc during storage ?
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
Metal Protecting !
- Thread starter SS Lancer
- Start date
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Lucus engine oil treatment/assembly lube. Same stuff just like STP from days gone by.
You ever try to get that engine assembly lube off your hands.
You ever try to get that engine assembly lube off your hands.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you - yes you practically have to wash hands multiple times
Thanks again I have plenty of stp on hand
I use plain old grease. lot's of it.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you yes another solid option , I need to preserve 5 blocks
4 cranks and a few sets of heads before they are stored up on shelving.
This is the best Hands Down!
Cosmoline for Firearms - Cosmoline Grease, Wax, Rust Preventives & Remover
Cosmoline for Firearms - Cosmoline Grease, Wax, Rust Preventives & Remover
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you Sir
Now that we see the quantity and type of parts you want to seal.
1 gallon of 10w30 and mix in a pint of engine assembly lube STP. Mix it all together. Now you can spray that on the blocks and heads for storage. Let it drip off for a day then put them up on the shelf. The motor oil alone will keep the cast iron from rusting, but with the STP it will stick on there for a long time.
Brush on the crank journals with straight STP, then spray the rest of the cranks with the oil treatment. Good to Go.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
I'm going to try and find some quality bags for blocks heads and cranks because they could be in storage for a long time.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you
Bags are good, clear bags are better so you can at least see what is in there. Tagged with identifing parts tags as to what they are.
Nothing worse than a bunch of good parts and no one knows what they are.
That will be nice to get them put away up on the shelves. When the day comes for someone to use them, they will be smiling that they are still in nice shape to use.
Fluid Film. At any big parts store. It's in a red can.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you , I believe that's what
Roy told me about .
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Yes sir clear bags and plainly marked and have files with them documented
or I will forget .
Probably. I told him about it. It works real good. It's like spray paint. You have to shake it up and rattle the ball around. It's good stuff.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Indeed - we are caretakers for this stuff I take that task seriously , I have a lot of effort and time and money in my junk so it must be preserved.
Yeah RRR told me about it. Plus they did a comparison of several preventive products and it won hands down. I have a truck Dana 60 that burned the saddles and shock mounts off then ground the surfaces down smooth. I sprayed all the bare metal down with Fluid Film a year or so ago. Still looks like i just did it.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Good stuff I think u said Lowes carrys it also ?
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
ANY petroleum oil will eventually evaporate. The higher the viscosity, the slower the evaporation rate. This is why WD-40 sucks for long term storage; it r evaporates away.
Grease works well, but it's a ***** to get in threaded holes and even worse to get out, risking a damaged hole if it's a blind hole. When grease dries out, it can become a solid that does NOT like to dissolve or reconstitute.
We use cosmo in machined cast iron railroad assemblies that are never maintained and sit outside forever.
I like cosmoline because it goes on fairly thin, viscosity wise about like a heavy motor oil, but the volatile compounds rapidly evaporate and it becomes a waxy grease. It flows well when a liquid and penetrating action is relatively high. Warmed much over 120degF, and it will flow again and becomes very easy to wipe off, and it will wick and redistribute itself over the surface. Automotive grease won't flow like that, which compromises protection.
MANY firearms over 100 years old exhibit fantastic metal protection thanks to cosmoline, even after ocean shipping and poor storage conditions.
You'll understand the penetrating ability after you get it in your clothes or on your skin. Rust-veto 342 is the modern name for the old US cosmo. We also use one of their lighter preservatives that can be sprayed in with a regular spray bottle. When it dries, it looks like nothing is in the surface, but if you touch it, it melts into oil again, just from your body heat.
Old guns packed with grease can seize up due to the grease getting rock hard. Cosmo gets sticky, but not hard. Cleans up with gasoline, or elbow grease, lasts DECADES.
Grease works well, but it's a ***** to get in threaded holes and even worse to get out, risking a damaged hole if it's a blind hole. When grease dries out, it can become a solid that does NOT like to dissolve or reconstitute.
We use cosmo in machined cast iron railroad assemblies that are never maintained and sit outside forever.
I like cosmoline because it goes on fairly thin, viscosity wise about like a heavy motor oil, but the volatile compounds rapidly evaporate and it becomes a waxy grease. It flows well when a liquid and penetrating action is relatively high. Warmed much over 120degF, and it will flow again and becomes very easy to wipe off, and it will wick and redistribute itself over the surface. Automotive grease won't flow like that, which compromises protection.
MANY firearms over 100 years old exhibit fantastic metal protection thanks to cosmoline, even after ocean shipping and poor storage conditions.
You'll understand the penetrating ability after you get it in your clothes or on your skin. Rust-veto 342 is the modern name for the old US cosmo. We also use one of their lighter preservatives that can be sprayed in with a regular spray bottle. When it dries, it looks like nothing is in the surface, but if you touch it, it melts into oil again, just from your body heat.
Old guns packed with grease can seize up due to the grease getting rock hard. Cosmo gets sticky, but not hard. Cleans up with gasoline, or elbow grease, lasts DECADES.
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i wouldn't use any type of grease because it could accidentally be wiped off [ without knowing it ] & rust can start. As post #19 correctly states, engine oil will eventually evaporate.
ATF is the best stuff to use. It is liquid, will 'flow', & therefore cover everything & does not evaporate. And it can be old, used ATF. I always keep a gallon of old ATF handy for rust proofing parts.
ATF is the best stuff to use. It is liquid, will 'flow', & therefore cover everything & does not evaporate. And it can be old, used ATF. I always keep a gallon of old ATF handy for rust proofing parts.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Spray LPS-3 on it, and let it dry. Then box it up.
Fluid film as posted before.
Long ago I knew a guy that stored such in 5 gal barrels of diesel. He was from Al..!! 
and diesel was cheap back then! and the barrels!
and diesel was cheap back then! and the barrels! -
