Turbo six on a Budget

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This was kinda my plan. I am getting a second 225 and was going to do a stock rebuild(no machining or new parts just bearings and rings) and then use that engine with a cheep turbo setup and then with my current engine I would build it for a turbo(forged internals mpf major head work ball bearing turbo ect...)
 
Would I just take off the vacuum advance.
That won't do a damn thing for You, except kill the fuel mileage & make the engine run warm. I Don't know about the newer MSD boost timing master, but the older dial-type left a lot to be desired when the boost went over 5psi, the settings weren't easily fine tuned because the numbers on the dial represented degrees/lb.-boost...when We had 20psi dialed in the wastegate, it was difficult to zero-in on the correct amount because tiny movements of the knob resulted in much higher effect on the total retard. It worked, with a little water/methanol injection, but was a tedious task.
You've got basic, sound advice, even with MPFI Mopar topped the non-intercooled boost w/cast pistons on the turbo I 2.2's at 7psi for good reasons,....
 
MagnaFuel MP-9690-BLK: 2-Port Boost Reference Regulator | JEGS
JEGS 159076: High Volume Inline Fuel Pump | JEGS
Will this work for fuel I would just mount them both on the firewall above the valve cover. How important is it that I use a 100 micron fuel filter before the pump. Could I get away with a lower micron?

Fuel pump needs to be as close to the tank as humanly possible. Plus, it's dangerous to put any fuel system parts on the firewall. Imagine what would happen if you had a leak and something found a spark. Fire would find every single hole it could find in the firewall to get to the interior. This is why NHRA disallows any fuel system components on the firewall. They will tech you right out of the track.
 
MagnaFuel MP-9690-BLK: 2-Port Boost Reference Regulator | JEGS
JEGS 159076: High Volume Inline Fuel Pump | JEGS
Will this work for fuel I would just mount them both on the firewall above the valve cover. How important is it that I use a 100 micron fuel filter before the pump. Could I get away with a lower micron?
Couple of thoughts. That pump is way more than you need. Size the pump for your approximate hp level. The regulator is really nice and probably overkill as well. Search around aeromotives website and you’ll find some stuff more appropriate for your build. Mounting an electric pump high up and on the firewall is a no no. Electrics don’t like to pull fuel, they like to push it. So it needs to be gravity fed and way at the back. I prefer in tank pumps. Last thought, be careful mounting your regulator to the firewall also. Most racing sanctioning bodies don’t allow it because it is a safety concern and a serious one. The inner fender is a better location.
 
Couple of thoughts. That pump is way more than you need. Size the pump for your approximate hp level. The regulator is really nice and probably overkill as well. Search around aeromotives website and you’ll find some stuff more appropriate for your build. Mounting an electric pump high up and on the firewall is a no no. Electrics don’t like to pull fuel, they like to push it. So it needs to be gravity fed and way at the back. I prefer in tank pumps. Last thought, be careful mounting your regulator to the firewall also. Most racing sanctioning bodies don’t allow it because it is a safety concern and a serious one. The inner fender is a better location.
I know this pump is over kill but it was the best deal I could find on a pump. All the aermotive pumps on the site are north of $300. I can mount the pump back near the tank. I have never used a intank pump so that was the reason I chose a inline pump because it’s a lot easier to access. If I am going to run 7~8 psi how many psi do I need my pump to be able to provide I might be making this up but I thought I read some where that you need x2 your turbo psi.
 
I know this pump is over kill but it was the best deal I could find on a pump. All the aermotive pumps on the site are north of $300. I can mount the pump back near the tank. I have never used a intank pump so that was the reason I chose a inline pump because it’s a lot easier to access. If I am going to run 7~8 psi how many psi do I need my pump to be able to provide I might be making this up but I thought I read some where that you need x2 your turbo psi.
There is no ONE correct answer. You need boost pressure+whatever your base fuel pressure is. So fuel pressure needs to rise 1:1 with boost. If you run 7psi of base fuel pressure and 7 psi of boost through a carb you’ll have no fuel flow. So the regulator raises fuel pressure 1:1 with boost. So to maintain 7psi fuel pressure with 7 psi of boost you need 14 psi of fuel pressure. If you run 20psi of boost and 7psi of base fuel pressure you need 27psi of fuel pressure.
 
There is no ONE correct answer. You need boost pressure+whatever your base fuel pressure is. So fuel pressure needs to rise 1:1 with boost. If you run 7psi of base fuel pressure and 7 psi of boost through a carb you’ll have no fuel flow. So the regulator raises fuel pressure 1:1 with boost. So to maintain 7psi fuel pressure with 7 psi of boost you need 14 psi of fuel pressure. If you run 20psi of boost and 7psi of base fuel pressure you need 27psi of fuel pressure.
Ok I had that general idea down. My plan now is to mount the pump right outside of the tank and then use the hardline up to the front to my regulator. Is the return line important in this setup?
 
Ok I had that general idea down. My plan now is to mount the pump right outside of the tank and then use the hardline up to the front to my regulator. Is the return line important in this setup?

Yes. It will help make the pump last. Dead heading a pump holding that much pressure before the regulator will shorten the life of the pump dramatically. You need a return style regulator though.
 
Yes. It will help make the pump last. Dead heading a pump holding that much pressure before the regulator will shorten the life of the pump dramatically.
Ok in a earlier post you said you prefer a intank pump. What brand do you use and is it a one size fits all deal or are tanks different from car to car.
 
Ok I had that general idea down. My plan now is to mount the pump right outside of the tank and then use the hardline up to the front to my regulator. Is the return line important in this setup?
A return style regulator is mandatory here. You will not be able to boost reference a dead head style regulator.
I use the aeromotive drop in modules with their 340 pumps and had great results.
I like this pump and size for your goals
https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/phantom-200-stealth-fuel-system
And I’ve used this regulator up to 650hp and it’s excellent. Use the low pressure spring that comes with it. 3-20 psi.
Universal Return Style Regulator - Aeromotive, Inc
I know this stuff is expensive and you are on a budget, Hell we all are. But the fuel system is very important. Do some research and you’ll see how bad running lean in boost is. Do not skimp on fuel system parts. Buy once, cry once.
 
OP I haven’t used one of these modules but I like the idea. And it sounds like a good way to go.
On that type system, I would use a pump similar to what you chose. If you go EFI, I think an in tank pump would work better. I think I would use this.

Holley 255 LPH OE Style Efi Fuel Tank Module
And I think with a good carbureted bypass regulator you could use it and get the pressure down.
 
A return style regulator is mandatory here. You will not be able to boost reference a dead head style regulator.
I use the aeromotive drop in modules with their 340 pumps and had great results.
I like this pump and size for your goals
https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/phantom-200-stealth-fuel-system
And I’ve used this regulator up to 650hp and it’s excellent. Use the low pressure spring that comes with it. 3-20 psi.
Universal Return Style Regulator - Aeromotive, Inc
I know this stuff is expensive and you are on a budget, Hell we all are. But the fuel system is very important. Do some research and you’ll see how bad running lean in boost is. Do not skimp on fuel system parts. Buy once, cry once.
I am willing to spend the money on a good fuel system because I can reuse it no matter what engine I use. For the timing control under boost would a microsquirt work. It is cheaper than the msd you have more tuning options and I could also expand to mpf.
 
Tanksinc seems to make most of the EFI tanks. I'm pretty sure the Holley tank is sourced from them.
Most are used for 60 PSI EFI systems but I think a drop-inCarb style pump is available.

I'm surprised @Charllie_S hasn't checked in yet.
 
Tanksinc seems to make most of the EFI tanks. I'm pretty sure the Holley tank is sourced from them.
Most are used for 60 PSI EFI systems but I think a drop-inCarb style pump is available.

I'm surprised @Charllie_S hasn't checked in yet.
The gpa 5 looks like like a good option and I think I can use my stock tank. Then the aremotive regulator
 
I am willing to spend the money on a good fuel system because I can reuse it no matter what engine I use. For the timing control under boost would a microsquirt work. It is cheaper than the msd you have more tuning options and I could also expand to mpf.
Good to hear. Come up with a plan and include a list of parts before you purchase anything. It will help you stick to the plan. And that will save a lot of money in the long run.
The microsquirt is a smaller version of the megasquirt controller. There are a few versions. If you go mpfi it’s not a bad way to go, but not if you are just using it for timing control. That would be a waste. I suggest you decide first if you are going to build an mpfi engine or a blow through carb’d engine. That has a lot to do with what parts you’ll need and how much money you’re going to spend.
 
Good to hear. Come up with a plan and include a list of parts before you purchase anything. It will help you stick to the plan. And that will save a lot of money in the long run.
The microsquirt is a smaller version of the megasquirt controller. There are a few versions. If you go mpfi it’s not a bad way to go, but not if you are just using it for timing control. That would be a waste. I suggest you decide first if you are going to build an mpfi engine or a blow through carb’d engine. That has a lot to do with what parts you’ll need and how much money you’re going to spend.
I want to run mpf eventually but I don’t know much about it now besides that I was to use a microsquirt or mega squirt
And I’m since they can control the timing I though I would be better off just starting with it. I know 68 barracuda runs a ms3 on his slant and that is has a built in boost map sensor. I was just wondering if it would be more cost effective to use it.
 
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I did some more reading and it looks like you can not use the mega or microsquirt for just timing control without fuel injection
 
I’m going to suggest something out of the normal opinion. Leave the stock 225 alone, completely stock, and build your turbo kit, and run the crap out of it. Most first time turbo builds bite the dust early on and are a great learning experience. Use this engine as a learning tool. In the mean time find another 225 and have it on a stand and slowly build it in to the boost ready short block. Also, read, read, read, as much as you can about turbocharging. I’ll suggest (again) the book “supercharged” written by Corky Bell for all kinds of theory. And any other book Corky wrote is worth the money. You MUST limit timing while under boost, but don’t want it pulled back when cruising. Spend the coin on an msd6btm you’ll thank me. And it will work for points. The stock fuel pump will barely keep up with a warmed up slant. Use some type of electric pump and a fuel pressure regulator referenced to boost as you need to increase pressure directly proportionate to boost. IE 1:1. This should get you started. I’m so glad a 15 year old has this much interest. Stick with it and ask as many questions as you can. Happy Hot Rodding.
Edited to add pics
View attachment 1715763451
View attachment 1715763452
Did some research on this boost controller and the people on the turbo forums are not a fan of it because it is a diagram setup and multiple people have lost there engine to it failing. They recommend the msd 7 digital bet that is a big chunk of cash
 
I did some more reading and it looks like you can not use the mega or microsquirt for just timing control without fuel injection
Well not entirely true. You can. I used the ms3 to control ignition timing only on my magnum with twins, piggybacking off the jtec ecu before I had it controling fuel as well. It is possible but involves resistors and tricking the ecu in to thinking it’s controling everything. Not something you need to dive in to right now.
 
Did some research on this boost controller and the people on the turbo forums are not a fan of it because it is a diagram setup and multiple people have lost there engine to it failing. They recommend the msd 7 digital bet that is a big chunk of cash
Lots of people loose engines for lots of reasons and blame a lot of things. It almost always (on a turbo build at least) has more to do with the tune up and detonation than anything else.
 
Also The msd 6btm is not a boost controller. It is an ignition box that has a built in map sensor. It is very reliable and perfect for what you want to do. I would say until you get to making around 1100 hp that box will serve you well.
 
OP I haven’t used one of these modules but I like the idea. And it sounds like a good way to go.

And I think with a good carbureted bypass regulator you could use it and get the pressure down.

Probably so. I would be the one to find out cause I ain't goin EFI. LOL
 
Probably so. I would be the one to find out cause I ain't goin EFI. LOL
There is a time and a place for everything. I love EFI and on some things there is no better solution. But I feel the same way about carburetors. Hell I just spent $1000 on one for my boat. And I’m so happy I did.
42E52FD5-3994-4149-945F-F98427FB9A83.jpeg
 
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