Barracuda died on lift at exhaust shop.

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cmcknight

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Hello all. 1968 Barracuda with all new factory wiring harnesses, switches, relays, and resistors. Car ran great before I took it to exhaust shop. Exhaust guy started it several times while on lift with ease. Went to drive it off the lift and made it halfway off before everything died. No lights or anything. Somehow the starter relay was shorted out as you could not connect the battery without major sparking and some of the connections were fried. Replaced the starter relay with a new one and replaced the fried wires. Still nothing. Thought maybe he torched the NSS wires but they look good. Jumped the NSS, still nothing. I have power going through my fusible link, to the alternator, and the lug on my new relay. I have no power from the relay lug to my starter cylinoid when I turn the key. I also have no power to my NSS and ignition terminals on the relay. What are the odds that I bought a bad brand new relay? Please help if you can.
 
CFD244 said:
Mig welding?.......Supposed to disconnect battery?
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Not sure if battery was disconnected or not. Guy was supposed to be the best custom exhaust guy in town. He owns many old cars himself, so I would assume he knows what he is doing?
 
I suppose you could have bought a bad one. I would try another unit to see if that solves the problem.
 
Yep, to the welding, but likely something simple! Take a deep breath and think some!


NSS is mostly a ground signal to the start relay term G. You may be correct with a poor replacement starter relay. Is it the correct relay stick or auto? We need to confirm some things though.


When attempting to start do you have +12 on yellow at the relay?

Did you try to jump the relay with a screwdriver or such?
 

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  • 68 Barracuda Factory Wiring REV 2.pdf
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1969383S said:
Yep, to the welding, but likely something simple! Take a deep breath and think some!


NSS is mostly a ground signal to the start relay term G. You may be correct with a poor replacement starter relay. Is it the correct relay stick or auto? We need to confirm some things though.


When attempting to start do you have +12 on yellow at the relay?

Did you try to jump the relay with a screwdriver or such?
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No 12v at yellow ignition wire. Car is auto. Can jump relay and turn over motor.
 
And fried wires is a tale tell to? Hope the shop had insurance to replace what they fried!
 
Confirm pass through voltage to the ammeter and fuse block! Some lights should work if power is passing the fusible link.
 
So you have power on the inside bulkhead at ammeter and fuse block?
 
When you start "frying wires" that's a REALLY bad deal because some short down in the harness inches or feet away from the obvious damage can heat up, melt two wires together and make a mess in a short time

Did you get it home? Might be easiest to "de wire" the car except main battery, use a screwdriver to jump the starter, and "hot wire" enough of the ignition to get it home

FIRST THING I WOULD SUSPECT is that somehow something got overheated by welding
 
67Dart273 said:
When you start "frying wires" that's a REALLY bad deal because some short down in the harness inches or feet away from the obvious damage can heat up, melt two wires together and make a mess in a short time

Did you get it home? Might be easiest to "de wire" the car except main battery, use a screwdriver to jump the starter, and "hot wire" enough of the ignition to get it home

FIRST THING I WOULD SUSPECT is that somehow something got overheated by welding
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Look at the diagram sent and diagnose! I hate you have to go through this with all new stuff!

On the good side if completely stock, it is easier to diagnose!
 
1969383S said:
Look at the diagram sent and diagnose! I hate you have to go through this with all new stuff!

On the good side if completely stock, it is easier to diagnose!
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Thank you for your help. My father gave me this car and I've been working on it for the past 10 years. Exhaust was last thing it needed.
 
cmcknight said:
Not sure if battery was disconnected or not. Guy was supposed to be the best custom exhaust guy in town. He owns many old cars himself, so I would assume he knows what he is doing?
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If "he started it several times on the lift", the battery wasn't disconnected. Not every vehicle is wired like these old mopars. I figure you have a problem behind the dash (amp gauge, weld splice, other), whether welding caused it or not. Good luck
 
cmcknight said:
I know visuals aren't everything, but nothing looks burnt. Had to tow it home.
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You said originally "connections are fried" That is what I was thinking. The "major sparking" is troubling. Take a GOOD look around anything near where the work was done, the starter wiring, the transmission harness, etc and the alternator
 
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