Which K frame would you use, given the choice?

brian6pac said

I never ran one, are they thicker metal ? more header clearance ?
I know they had better disc brakes, upper control arms were different with bigger ball joints, lower ball joints were bigger for the bigger tie rods and had different center link and spindles. I have swapped out all that on a 70 K-member, but what is better about the k-member.

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Already covered. The 73+ K member allows the sway bar to pass through it, which improves ground clearance and keeps you from using your sway bar as a parking block finder like the earlier style. The way that the bottom plate is changed to allow this makes it more dimensional, with a stamped edge. Of course it also adds holes, so, you can argue about whether that makes it stiffer or not. I would say it’s about the same. The engine mounts are better, the header clearance is pretty much the same because the engine location is the same, although you won’t get changes like with worn out or damaged biscuit mounts. The engine height in the bay doesn’t depend on the condition or thickness of the rubber mount, but instead by the mount on the K frame which is fixed.

If you’re running BBP brakes and calipers, the 73+ sway bar changes allow for the factory caliper location, so, no need to flip sides to clear the calipers from the sway bar and run longer hoses like with the 67-72 sway bar and BBP brakes.

Oh, and the 73+ sway bar doesn’t limit front tire width like the 67-72 factory sway bar.

If you’re planning on running BBP brakes and a sway bar the 73+ K is a no brainer. Even more so if you want wider front tires. You can get it done with the 67-72 K’s with the right aftermarket parts, but it’s easier with the 73+ k and sway bar design.