No start on rebuilt 360LA

Let's go through this again.........

I would do a leak down compression test and RE check valve lash ABSOLUTELY FOR CERTAIN

What is called "EOIC" works well. This positions valves so that they are on the back circle of the cam. It stands for "Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing" and here is how you use it:

Bump engine until an exhaust valve STARTS TO OPEN some. Then check/ adjust the intake on that cylinder

To check the exhaust, bump engine until an intak opens, goes up over open "max" and is starting to and almost closed. Check that exhaust valve. If this is hydraulic, you should be able to easily spin pushrods. If solids, set valve lash.

TIMING

1...Establish no1 compression as I previously posted. FOR SURE
2...Bring marks on up to NOT to TDC but rather where it is you want initial timing, IE say, 15 BTC
3....IT REALLY DOES NOT MATTER where the rotor points. Sit the dist in, and if possible put the dist in so rotor points to the "factory correct" tower. THIS IS NOT IMPORTANT
3...AND THIS IS IMPORTANT. The ROTOR does NOT determin "the firing point." The TRIGGER position is what does this. There are several ways to do this
A....If this was a points dist, rotate retard, hook indicator lamp to points, slowly rotate advanced (CCW) until points open, snug down dist
B....If this was a Mopar magnetic, you can get reasonably close by simply centering the reluctor in the pickup coil core
C....All other electronic dist.........use your head. If the trigger point/ wheel is visible, than adjust dist so it seems to be triggered
4....Position cap/ look/ remove/ position/ look/ remove carefully to determine WHICH TOWER the rotor IS COMING TO WHILE GOING CLOCKWISE. In other words now that the trigger point is set, you want the rotor just approaching but certainly not "past" a tower in quiestion. THIS TOWER WILL BE your no1 wire
5...Wire up the cap
6...If possible check timing "on the starter" with a light. If you were using MSD CDI (multispark/ 6 etc) DO NOT USE a newer "dial up" light. Us an old conventional light. You want plenty of advance with a cammed up engine perhaps 15 BTC

ALSO IMPORTANT

Since you are having problems, I would "dewire" the igntiion from the harness. Hook the ignition to the coil and hook power to the system with a jumper wire. This will eliminate the possiblility that the igntiion switch/ harness is somehow dropping power

BEFORE ATTEMPTING START

I would pull all plugs and inspect for oil/ fuel fouling. Be wary of gas washing down the cylinders. If plugs are wet, clean with acetone, thinner, or even spray "parts cleaner" and blow them dry.

While you are at it be CERTAIN the fuel is fresh. If this has been sitting around a year, I'd drain the tank and get fresh in there, or else "rig" a small external tank temporarily. I've even gone so far (at times) of "riggin" a gravity feed tank hung from above. Boating equipment can be handy for this.