Factory AC Will Freeze You Out
Only way I know to test it is get the system ready, evaculated and charged and up and running and see what you have
So far as replacement, "I've never done this" in automotive, but if you can access industrial refrigeration supply joints there are all kinds and all sizes of TXV/s for sale. If you can silver braze/ work with fittings etc you ought to be able to adapt one.
There are two major deviations. The kind with the small extra (usually 1/4") line hook up are called "externally equalized". Types without this are called "internally equalized". The external type is better for widely varying situations, as the pressure tap for the evap gives the valve a "better picture" of the pressure situation. Of course you want it sized within reason, and for the R you are working with
Some of them are adjustable and some are not, which gives you a further "diddle factor" when replacing one
"Good luck" trying to buy a new R12 valve, 'xcept maybe egag or somewhere
From wiki:
Adjustment of the screw if present at bottom "encourages" valve opening by weakening spring pressure. A drop in temp on the bulb (at evap outlet) causes the valve to throttle down, and an increase in equalizer pressure causes the thing to throttle down
Sure they do. The vacuum diaphram can fail and leak, and the mechanical part of a valve can fail just any other moving part
Only way I know to test it is get the system ready, evaculated and charged and up and running and see what you have
So far as replacement, "I've never done this" in automotive, but if you can access industrial refrigeration supply joints there are all kinds and all sizes of TXV/s for sale. If you can silver braze/ work with fittings etc you ought to be able to adapt one.
There are two major deviations. The kind with the small extra (usually 1/4") line hook up are called "externally equalized". Types without this are called "internally equalized". The external type is better for widely varying situations, as the pressure tap for the evap gives the valve a "better picture" of the pressure situation. Of course you want it sized within reason, and for the R you are working with
Some of them are adjustable and some are not, which gives you a further "diddle factor" when replacing one
"Good luck" trying to buy a new R12 valve, 'xcept maybe egag or somewhere
From wiki:
Adjustment of the screw if present at bottom "encourages" valve opening by weakening spring pressure. A drop in temp on the bulb (at evap outlet) causes the valve to throttle down, and an increase in equalizer pressure causes the thing to throttle down