Cam regrinding question

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dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I don't know much about cam regrinds but I do have several cores and several engines I want to build so economically it may be a wise time to start learning lol. 1st question i understand that to get more lift they cut down the base circle, but after this is done in order to achieve proper lift wouldn't you need longer pushrods? Seems to me you would have to. Because preload is set on the base of the came if you remove material from the base then your loose preload. Im I thinking about this correctly?
 
The correct answer is, "sometimes". It's totally dependent on the core's condition and "what" grind you choose. Also, if you're using non adjustable rockers, the answer is "most likely". Since the hydraulic lifter plunger does have a range of travel, if you are still within that range after regrind, you'll probably be ok. But chances of that are pretty slim. I got chastised because I didn't change to a shorter pushrod on my current slant 6. Everyone said my geometry would be way off. Well, it's not. In fact, the rocker sweep is almost ideal. The reason all the know it alls said was because of the .155" I had milled off the head. Nobody thought to include the reground camshaft, which would, by itself, require longer pushrods, while the head mill would require shorter. So in effect, they cancelled each other out, once again proving the resident tech heads wrong.

But the bottom line wen changing anything regarding the valve train is MEASURE what you are going to use. That way there'll be no question about what you need.
 
I have a set of adjustable rockers that came on that 360 I bought recently. I gotta finish going thru it ans development a game plan. I have idea of what I want to do if the bottom end passes inspection.
 
Rusty's absolutely right, I should have qualified my answer as "probably". It all depends on what other machine work was done, and what valve gear you run. My bad. Check twice, buy once.
 
Rusty's absolutely right, I should have qualified my answer as "probably". It all depends on what other machine work was done, and what valve gear you run. My bad. Check twice, buy once.
Yea I figured as much lol
 
Rusty's absolutely right, I should have qualified my answer as "probably". It all depends on what other machine work was done, and what valve gear you run. My bad. Check twice, buy once.

...and just to clarify, I didn't mean my "know it all" comment directed at you at all. I should have been more clear. lol
 
...and just to clarify, I didn't mean my "know it all" comment directed at you at all. I should have been more clear. lol
No problem! I shouldn't have made a blanket statement to begin with- there's ALWAYS exceptions, and I failed to note them. :BangHead:
 
I talked to Ken at Oregon Cam a couple years ago about regrinding the hyd roller out of my roller LA 360. I can't remember the exact verbiage he used, but essentially, he mentioned that he doesn't like to go too radical on regrinds because it grinds away the hardening on the cam core. He said it depends on the core itself. Apparently, some are better suited for regrinds than others - easily identifiable by numbers on the camshaft itself. If you call him, he'll give you all the information you need.
 
I talked to Ken at Oregon Cam a couple years ago about regrinding the hyd roller out of my roller LA 360. I can't remember the exact verbiage he used, but essentially, he mentioned that he doesn't like to go too radical on regrinds because it grinds away the hardening on the cam core. He said it depends on the core itself. Apparently, some are better suited for regrinds than others - easily identifiable by numbers on the camshaft itself. If you call him, he'll give you all the information you need.
I was talking to my machine shop today about the same issue. He agrees that anything shaved more than .150, and the factory hardened surface is ground through. We all know what happens after that.
 
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