Duplicolor ceramic engine paint issues

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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Is it just me, or does the duplicolor engine paint w ceramic not dry to a gloss shine. I have painted a few parts so far, and the high closs does not dry high gloss, it dries dull and slightly rough. These are items that have been cleaned, and in the case of a timing cover, were sandblasted, cleaned, and primered with the duplicolor high heat primer. I used mopar rattle cans in the past, but that stuff was runny, and didnt cover well, but it was shiny. What do y'all use.
 
I've found that trick with that paint is to lay the final coat on heavy and wet.

Of course it's a fine line between getting it right, and going too far and having it run...

I don't care for that paint anymore though as it goes on like water at first and no matter how careful of a prep job I do, I always get a few spots that flake or chip too easily soon after. (Ususlly right up front where you see them like on the big block I.D. pad LOL).
Seems to be becoming an issue with most rattle-can paints anymore...you get two bad ones for every one good one. Proper paint and spray-gun is the best but I haven't gone that route yet.
 
I put tack coats, and a wet shiny slick coat at the end. When that shiny coat flashes off, it still dries like a matte finish.
 
This is why they also make a Clear coat to go on after in the same Ceramic paint. Whenever I paint a bare engine, I get the primer, color and clear engine paint.
 
I use Bill Hirsch Paint or POR15 both brush on. Shines like a base/clear paint job.
 
Would "baking" it help?

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Original motors weren’t high gloss.

if you’re going to clear it. Put just enough color paint to cover.

Too thick of layered paint build up will cause cracking.
 
autoxcuda said:
Original motors weren’t high gloss.

if you’re going to clear it. Put just enough color paint to cover.

Too thick of layered paint build up will cause cracking.
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Oh I know engines werent super shiny, but this stuff is really dull as crap.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I put tack coats, and a wet shiny slick coat at the end. When that shiny coat flashes off, it still dries like a matte finish.
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I always put down a coat of Gray Automotive Primer Surfacer to seal up the cast iron surfaces, then when you spray on the ceramic aerosol high temp engine paint it does not shink down into the rough cast parts surface.

The primer surfacer stands up to the engine temperatures and does not peal off.
Provides a good base for smooth steel parts like valve covers too.

I paint valve covers, intake manifolds, and transmissions all silver. They all get a basecoat of primer surfacer, then Chrysler 2003 minivan silver basecoat, then automotive clearcoat to make it shine and chemical resistant as the final finish.

Here is one, primer surfacer all parts, then high temp ceramic on the engine block and heads, then basecoat/clearcoat on the valve covers and intake manifold. Holds up to heat well and has a decent final finish.

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Primer surfacer, then base, then clear.
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Primer Surfacer, then single stage black acrylic enamel with the hardener.
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Primer Surfacer then Base/Clear
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I painted the timing cover chrysler corporate blue, and the pulleys gloss black. All duplicolor ceramic engine paint. I used the high heat primer. They all turned out as a matte finish. I shook the **** out of the paint too.
 
Not sure if you got some bad batches of ceramic paint. Get mine at O'Reilly's, they have all the mopar engine colors. Good quality control, good finishes. They rotate their stock.

Wonder if it is the Aerosol primer? Never cared for it, seems to be sub par in durability and chemical resistance, compared to the real professional grade automotive primer surfacers.

You want the Primer Surfacer (Sprayed from a Gun) to go on and dry the recommend time. It is the foundation for the topcoat.

Thinking your ceramic topcoat chemicals are going into the Aerosol Primer not being able to hold up the shine of the topcoat.

What does the gloss of the Ceramic high temp engine paint look like after you spray it on smooth bare steel, like stripped bare steel valve covers without using the aerosol primer underneath it? It should produce a gloss finish this way.

I would never use any aerosol primers under any auto body paint jobs, it can lift off from the the next chemicals going on top, making a mess out of an expensive paint job. Adhesion is poor too.

Aerosol primers are for the DIYers repainting their rusted lawn furniture.

Speaking from 12 years in the auto body and paint trade.

Anything that can go wrong will go wrong, and if you shortcut it, it's redo time.

Good luck, hope you can come up with a working solution.
 
Using the duplicolor high heat engine primer. I was thinking this is what you should use under a high heat engine paint. The paint I bought thru summit, primer i got local. Maybe it's a case of not letting the primer dry long enough before top coating. I dunno. Years ago back in the 90s I used this stuff and never had a problem. Sprayed on shiny stayed shiny.
 
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Just for sake of conversation here is the professional grade Primer Surfacer I use on everything, can be topcoated with any finish too.

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And here is the good grade Lacquer Thinner to thin it with so you can spray it, and keeps it wet just long enough to let any trapped moisture from your air compressor to evaporate out. Cheep gun cleaning thinners dry too fast, leaving a blushing look to the applied surfacer on a humid day.

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Like this primer surfacer because it is simple, universal as a primer sealer or primer surfacer, can be brushed into rough cast iron and dabbing it for a nice surface to topcoat spray over. Can be used a base for nice custom finishes too.

No activator required like some surfacers require.
 
From experience when ever you paint aluminum parts make sure you coat them with self etch primer before assembly. If not after some time the paint will start to flake off the aluminum. I also use it on all tin parts . after glass beading them. After the motor is assembled then coat the whole motor with engine enamel primer. Then it is ready for paint. Some paints shine differently. I have been using autozone paints "Rust Oleum" because they are close to me. Pontiac paint has to be purchased online. The primers are very important. I always paint the engine as one unit after it is assembled. What ever you have pre-coated or polished is taped off. But we always paint them assembled.
I haven't found paint that matches the original colors perfect . But I never really cared because I am not a numbers guy. I make them look close and that's good enough for me. I paint every part when building and try to show parts were disassembled. They are not OEM colors it is just the look I like and what ever can is at my reach.

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moparmat2000 said:
Oh I know engines werent super shiny, but this stuff is really dull as crap.
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That Duplicolor engine paint is pure crap, I painted two engines, one black, one orange, I followed the can instructions to the tee even used their primer. Both engines now need a re paint after 2 years. If you get any fuel or solvents on the paint it well come right off. Junk, never again
 
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Might be the batch you got or maybe I just got lucky? This engine is going on 2 years and still looks just as good today. It was hot tanked then just hit it with brake kleen and laid down 2 or 3 coats of paint.

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512Stroker said:
Not even Frank's Hot Sauce would kill the bad taste I have for Duplicolor
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Although I use rattle cans almost exclusively to paint engines, the DEAD BEST paint jobs I've ever seen on engines is with regular high quality automotive paint. No high heat, no nuthin. And they LAST and look great. That's just too much work for me. LOL
 
Never been impressed with anything from DupliColor. I admit I use little rattle can unless from Rustoelum or SEM.
Seems like I read decades ago from the big guys that Ma Mopar just sprayed the engines with Acrylic enamel, not sure if even used the hardner? Heck back then alkid enamel was still common.
 
I have used duplicolor engine paint for the mopar colors.

My favorite finish is automotive Acrylic Enamel Single Stage with the Hardener. Much more chemical resistant, and holds a really nice shine.
 
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