[SOLD] ‘70 Duster 360/4spd

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vntned

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Just testing the waters to see if I can sell this Duster. I don’t have to sell it, but I’ve been encouraged to by my wife, and it’d free up time and money for some other projects.

Short version of the story is, the car sat in a barn from ‘89 until early 2020. I got it shortly after in a trade deal in the spring of 2020.

The car originally was an F4 Lime Green Metallic, with F8 Ivy Green interior. It was a 318/904 car with a 7.25 open rear. It came with power steering and AC, as well split armrest front bench and an AM radio.

In the past year I have replaced the entire drivetrain, suspension and brakes.

I now has a 360, 4spd and an 8.25” SureGrip rear.

The 360 has around 15k miles on a rebuild. Specs are as follows:

‘70 360 block 0.060” over
Refurbed cast crank turned 10/10
Refurbed factory rods
SpeedPro H116CP 0.060” pistons
Compression measures out at 9.3:1
340 windage tray
Bluebrint Engines front balancer
Brass freeze plugs
587 “J” heads w/ new valve guides hardened seats
New stainless 1.88/1.60 valves
CompCams valve springs and retainers
Mopar HD rocker arm assembly
Stock replacement pushrods
CompCams 268AH-10 cam and lifters
CompCams double roller timing set
Edlebrock LD340 intake w/ Chrysler #
StreetDemon 750 carb
‘68-‘70 340 HP exhaust manifolds
Stock style distributor w/ MSD wires

Trans is a ‘67 A833 with the 2.66 first gear. Replaced the front bearing when I did the engine. Overall good condition. I had the factory Hurst shifter rebuilt by Brewers as well as sourced all new rods and levers from Brewers as well as a new 360 flywheel and a Ram HDX borg&beck clutch.

Outback is a 8.25” rear end that was rebuilt maybe 20k miles ago with a new 3.55 ring and pinion and a Mopar SureGrip differential.

The suspension is nearly all new.

PST 1.06” torsion bars
OE XHD rear leafs
KYB GasAJust shocks all around
Hellwig 1 1/8” solid front sway bar
Hellwig adjustable 1” hollow rear bar
New front struts rod bushings
All new steering linkage is Moog
New big ball joint UCAs
New front control arm bushings all

Brakes are all new with a front disc brake conversion from PST using the later 11” big bolt pattern stuff. New spindles, rotors, bearings, calipers, pads and hoses. Rear drum brakes have been all rebuilt with new shoes, cylinders and spring kits. Drums were turned. New rear hose as well. New dual pot master cylinder up front with a plumb’d in line lock and adjustable brake proportioning valve.

Also under the hood is an aluminum 22” radiator with dual electric fans ran through HD relays, backed up by an upgraded high amp capacity alternator. New rad hoses etc.

New fuel tank and sending unit as well.

The wheels are Cragar S/S in 15x7 and 15x8. They are drilled 5x4.5 and are NOT unilug! Tires are new Cooper Cobras in 215s and 275s.

The car is turn key, and I do drive it regularly, (tagged and insured), but it is still a project. The engine is strong, trans is good, rear end is good, brakes are nice and firm and the suspension is responsive. This same drivetrain in my Dart ran 8.60s at 82mph in 1/8th mile. Fun toy as is, or you can keep fixing it up while driving it.

Asking $10kobo…

Located in NC 27249

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I’m a bit confused is it a 360 with the 340 4 barrel decals, or a straight up 340?
 
From a mechanical standpoint you’ve done a lot of work on it. From a structural standpoint, can you post some pics of the underside (front and rear sub frames) and trunk floor?
 
Trunk floor needs to be replaced. Structure wise, it’s solid and straight. Needs a small patch in the front dropped boards on each side. Not bad at all. I’ll try and get pics today after work.
 
Here’s a few underneath pics. Also, you can see the exhaust is all new. It consists of 2.5” head pipes from TTi, then I had my muffler guy do the rest in 2.5”. It is H-pipe and the mufflers are stainless Flowmaster FlowFX in 2.5” as well. I sounds crazy, but collectively the exhaust alone cost $600!!! This hobby ain’t as cheap as it used to be!

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I haven’t driven that long in one stretch. I’d probably be willing to drive it that far, but I would feel comfortable if it broke down in my ability to get it back going.

Would you consider towing or paying to have it towed?
 
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