Voltage Regulator problem

-
Okay I got the harness all unwrapped. There are only 2 wires coming out of the alt. 1 larger gauge wire which I assume is the charge wire? It goes into the bulkhead connector.
The other smaller wire goes into this junction which has been laying on the intake manifold since I got the car

That "junction" is a choke timer. it should be bolted to the intake....usually under a coil bracket bolt. The timer is part of the heat assist for the electric choke. Oh, and don't forget to tighten that exhaust header nut!
 
So you know what you're looking at here.
Wires are coded with function, wire segment, the wire gage and insulation color(s)
For example A indicates battery related, and S is starter related.
upload_2021-7-20_21-13-49.png


Here's teh snip from the wiring diragram so you can see how it works.
+A green S4 was used on manual transmissoin cars.
upload_2021-7-20_21-19-59.png



You can download the '73 Dodge chassis manual which has these diagrams.
This is just to get you started.

The '73 diagram can be a bit difficult to work with. Nothing wrong with redrawing or electronicly tracing or highlighting.
The basic scheme is sometimes easier to understand when laid out more in the manner of the earlier diagrams.
upload_2021-7-20_21-24-41.png

I don't show all of the specifics, but you can modify based on the shop manual and what you find.
 
This is that wire. They are both blue.

The brown connector looks factory the bullet connector maybe or maybe not.
For now justt ziptie it secure and out of the way


This next one looks to show CE40 which was configured a couple different ways depending on the transmission and wiper options.
upload_2021-7-20_21-39-37.png


We can also see the battery wire and the fusible link
upload_2021-7-20_21-41-6.png


In any event, its not the connector with alternator and regulator wires.
 
There are only 2 wires coming out of the alt. 1 larger gauge wire which I assume is the charge wire?
Its the alternator output wire. if it goes through a grommet you have a car which came with an optional 60 amp alternator and probably a the rear window defroster.
If it goes to the bulkhead connector you have a standard setup. On the diagram its wire R6.


then it T's before entering the bulkhead.
3-jpg.jpg

Hm. That might be a home made version. But yes there is one blue wire coming from the bulkhead. That's the ignition run wire from the key switch. J2 or J2 something and originally had a white stripe.
When the key is in run, that wire gets power.
The power then splits at the junction. So each wire there goes to one of the items discussed above.
Cudamark recognized the first item photod


From the T, 1 wire continues onto the ballast resistor
2-jpg.jpg
That's correct.

and the other just dead ends at this connector near the battery

This connector?
upload_2021-7-20_22-3-46.png
 
Someone may have eliminated the CE37 connector. and with it the VR plug.
upload_2021-7-20_22-22-16.png


That's OK.
Get a pigtail for the regulator and wire it in.

If you want to test the connections are correct, disconnect the battery and check for continuity in the wires.
It wont show the quality of the connections, but it will show if things are connected correctly.
 
There is a wire connector that doesn't look like it is seated correctly. Don't know if it has anything to do with your issues.

IMG_20210723_145445.png
 
Someone may have eliminated the CE37 connector. and with it the VR plug.
View attachment 1715768836

That's OK.
Get a pigtail for the regulator and wire it in.

If you want to test the connections are correct, disconnect the battery and check for continuity in the wires.
It wont show the quality of the connections, but it will show if things are connected correctly.

I went to a local junkyard and scrounged a V/R plug then added the missing green wire from the diagram you provided. Seems to be working as I now have 13.6 volts at idle. Thanks to all who have chipped in.
 
Yea!
Congrats.


By the way be sure any reply or comments are outside the "[Quote" and "/Quote]" or it gets obsorbed into the quote.


Looks like you figured it out already

We have all done it!
 
Small update and a problem/question. I straightened up the harness and zip ties it up. Didn't rewrap it in case I need to work on it again. Will rewrap after a few weeks. Took it back over to the parts store to have them test it again. On my multimeter it is putting out 13.5 volts at idle. On the parts store tester it is only showing 12.3 volts at idle. Also said the voltage regulator is bad. I'm inclined to trust my meter more on the voltage but am at a loss for the V/R.
 
I will be removing the V/R, taking it into the parts store to test on their big machine then cleaning up the grounds for it.
 
If your volt meter reads 12.6 or there abouts with the engine off and 13.6 with the engine ideling I would say your ok.

Their tool might be reading low and saying the VR is bad due to low voltage reading
 
-
Back
Top