Single field Alternator rebuild

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Darren

Darren

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Hey guys
I'm dropping my alternator (68 barracuda single field) off at a local shop for rebuild.
I've owned the car for 7 years, before me it was stored for years so might even be original alternator.
Is there anything I should tell the shop when I drop it off?
I'm assuming my alternator is 55 amp .
I'll attach a picture of my current alternator
Thanks

20210720_073908.jpg
 
Murray said:
Don't assume- might be 37amp. Parts most needed are front and rear bearings and brushes.
Click to expand...
No AC .. it's your old Car lol.
I'm concerned about them increasing AMPS is that's even possible..
Thanks Murray
 
Hello Darren! I believe the original alternator was 37 amp. Your car has no accessories (electrically speaking). Amps can be increased with the proper combination of rotor and stator which I have never done. Good luck.
 
Darren said:
I'm concerned about them increasing AMPS is that's even possible
Click to expand...
Only if the change out the stator (and or rotor) or rewire it as well.

To tell if it is oem to your car look at the rear bearing, as I understand the cap should not be flat it should have some round ridges on it, the diodes have particular markings (Motorola????)

There are also date markings on the front and rear case halves. Should be days to a few months before your cars build date.

16273135496357167421452014289959.jpg


Lastly if it is not a rebuild don't let them sand blast it (if you are looking for oe restoration) I don't recall but there are cleaning methods that will not alter the casting patenia.

Also sometimes the long bolts get replaced and don't have the correct heads
This is a NOS stator for colors if you are looking to dup OEM for restro. It is a replacement part so I don't know if the original in the alternator would have been the same colors
16273136852263560694533635256306.jpg


Also also... The gear should look like this don't know what color

16273139101282150786256624969096.jpg
 
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Dana67Dart said:
Only if the change out the stator (and or rotor) or rewire it as well.

To tell if it is oem to your car look at the rear bearing, as I understand the cap should not be flat it should have some round ridges on it, the diodes have particular markings (Motorola????)

There are also date markings on the front and rear case halves. Should be days to a few months before your cars build date.

Lastly if it is not a rebuild don't let them sand blast it (if you are looking for oe restoration) I don't recall but there are cleaning methods that will not alter the casting patenia.

Also sometimes the long bolts get replaced and don't have the correct heads
Click to expand...
Ok thanks.. I'll pull it tonight and inspect it , pretty sure I did some numbers stamped in case.
Thanks
 
I think the original number stamped on the case near the output wire should be- 2642537. 37 amp.
 
Sounds right.

Keep in mind this is from 67 parts book

16273141536873078083986928939936.jpg
16273141884671171977862754432193.jpg
 
Most stators are dark red, green was 1971. 37 amps is plenty. More horsepower is good. More beer is good, more amps may not be good.
 
Murray said:
I think the original number stamped on the case near the output wire should be- 2642537. 37 amp.
Click to expand...
Hi Murray..
You where correct with the numbers..
Do you know if they originally had a double pulley?
Mine does .. maybe for AC option
Thanks

16273355200634733596798902073918.jpg
 
Double pulley? All #26425537 were single pulleys and 37 amp. If you had another model with AC, you were given a better alternator (46 amp, double pulley). This doesn't show on the FSM shown but there were many Barracudas w/318 and AC. If you want to be a little more correct, you might go single pulley at rebuild. The FSM shows the single pulley at 2 1/2" diameter and the double pulley at 3", a little slower.
 
Murray said:
Double pulley? All #26425537 were single pulleys and 37 amp. If you had another model with AC, you were given a better alternator (46 amp, double pulley). This doesn't show on the FSM shown but there were many Barracudas w/318 and AC. If you want to be a little more correct, you might go single pulley at rebuild. The FSM shows the single pulley at 2 1/2" diameter and the double pulley at 3", a little slower.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info Murray.. I'll see if the shop has a single pulley..
 
The 2.5 pulley measures more like 2.7". The smaller pulley will get you better idle performance.


413 said:
Most stators are dark red, green was 1971
Click to expand...

Thanks, it is always hard to know with replacement parts what color something should be.
 
Darren said:
You where correct with the numbers..
Do you know if they originally had a double pulley?
Mine does .. maybe for AC option
Click to expand...
My guess is that yours is a rebuild, double pulley on a single pulley application, the casting looks blasted, and the numbers are slightly obscured.

Post a photo of the back side,
 
Your original is fine and a good shop to rebuild is worth much.

37A is plenty in stock form! JMO!
 
Yep it's a rebuild, color of the diodes, flat bearing cap.
 
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The only real way to know your amp rating is to spin it up when you are done. You do have the original alternator there, just someone has messed with it. Unless you have other plans, that little 37A is adequate.
 
Hi guys.. so I popped into the starter/alt rebuild shop and it just happens the preferred alternator rebuild guy is on holidays..
To get me up and going.. is there a suggested updated square back alternator I can purchase from my local parts store ?
I did a fast research and looks like the lowest AMP rating available is 55..
I realize I'll have to ground the 2nd field to case ..
Anything else I should look for?
Thanks.
 
Murray said:
That will work. Why is it that every time I need something- that guy is on vacation?
Click to expand...
Yep never fails lol.
I guess I'll buy a replacement for now then get the original alternator rebuild when he gets back and leave it on the shelf ..
Thanks Murray
 
Buy an alternator that is for your application, it will probably be a square back but it should come already wired for single field wire ( meaning that one field terminal will be internally grounded) typically it will be clipped off.
 
Hey guys.. so today I was able to get my original 37 AMP alternator rebuilt.. I'm just installing it now to do some Voltage drop tests like I was told.. first thing I noticed is without key on my green field wire that hooks to alternator is grounded..
Is this normal?
I thought I read somewhere that if it is it will cause alternator full field..
Is this correct?
Thanks
 
Ok it seams now the green field wire is not grounded when key is on.. so I think that is correct?
Thanks
 
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