Dartin for Divorce

Don't do it...build an engine, too much $$$$$. "If" after the Machine shop checks the block and it's good... then they'll recommend; decking, align boring main journals, .030" bore cylinders, cut the crank mains and rods .010", this will merit nitriding the crank and hardening the journals and install new cam bearings. Now this work is typically recommended to provide a solid foundation for you to start with. Then you'll need to get the rods squared and sized - if they're good - if not count on new rods, then with cylinder over-bore new pistons, piston pins, rings, oil pump, timing set, bearings and the list continues. Even if you build it at home you're still going to need heads, gaskets, rocker covers, and believe me the list keeps continuing. Then, based on heads, cam, intake & headers you choose who knows what you'll end up with? Will it be a "goer", "shower" or blow up during cam break-in...
I strongly suggest you look online for a crate engine. They're built based on proficiency and knowledge of what works, more importantly knowledge of what doesn't work. When you decide which engine you think you want you talk with person who'll ask tons of questions; intended use of car, what car is it going in, transmission type, rear end ratio and even tire size. What you can get is a crate that's "carb to oil pan" dyno broken in, professionally built, dyno pull sheet accompanying the engine as well as a warranty.
Now crates aren't cheap either, but re-read above = professionally built, dialed to your car's set up, complete ready to drop in and go as well as guaranteed.
Believe me I know building your own engine is romantic, enticing, let's you pound your chest "if" it works and performs to your expectations and all that. But if not you'll be starting over "or" buying another engine.
Not trying to burst your bubble or be a Debbie Downer, just suggesting what I think will give best bang for your buck. I forgot to mention whichever way you go when increasing engine power your "weak link" will be the trans if automatic plan on a performance built unit (also available in crate and guaranteed), torque converter, shifter and etc. If a stick trans, new flywheel and performance clutch & pressure plate..

Examples:
1- in 78 I built a 289 C-code (typical 2brl engine) after all said and done I was in it for $3,500. Calculate that into today's $...
2- last summer my best buddy and I dropped a 347 stroker (302 Ford, punched, stroked, balanced, roller engine) in his 67 Falcon Futura Sports Coupe. $5,000 pan to carb, including distributor all he needed was the dampener/harmonic balancer. The dyno sheet displayed 420 horsepower & 429 torque.
Don't get a excited by the 5k as stroker small block MoPars will cost about 2 times as the little 347, but if the crate is 360 magnum based they typically go 402 cubic inches and based on more ci and what you want I think they can go as much as 426 ci.
Do your research and weigh your options on the end result for the $ you'll spend.
Hope this didn't disappoint and instead helps.
Enjoy:thumbsup: