Battery voltage question

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Adding loads to the "ignition run" or IGN1 line can be a problem because there might already be damage. the big big causes are the big red and big black ammeter wires through the bulkhead connector, possibly the ammeter, certainly the ignition switch, and the bulkhead feed through for the ignition "run" wire

More loads cause more drop. One way around this is add a relay operated by the key to feed the underhood loads. Keep in mind that line is NOT fused
 
Its not difficult to upgrade to the later 60 amp square back alternator. You could add about 8 feet of blue wire to make it isolated field like factory did also but... that has the potential to put more current through the same old connectors and components.
I think electric choke is typically tied to the same blue wire IGN 1 wire as everything else. If its tied to the coil side of ballast resistor it wont get 12 volts. Everything that is designed to get 12 volts will work best when it gets full 12 volts.
 
Its not difficult to upgrade to the later 60 amp square back alternator. You could add about 8 feet of blue wire to make it isolated field like factory did also but... that has the potential to put more current through the same old connectors and components.
I think electric choke is typically tied to the same blue wire IGN 1 wire as everything else. If its tied to the coil side of ballast resistor it wont get 12 volts. Everything that is designed to get 12 volts will work best when it gets full 12 volts.
I would have to double check but im pretty sure my MP electronic ignition is tied into the Same connector (blast resistor) as my electric choke.
Thanks
 
Adding loads to the "ignition run" or IGN1 line can be a problem because there might already be damage. the big big causes are the big red and big black ammeter wires through the bulkhead connector, possibly the ammeter, certainly the ignition switch, and the bulkhead feed through for the ignition "run" wire

More loads cause more drop. One way around this is add a relay operated by the key to feed the underhood loads. Keep in mind that line is NOT fused
I recently replaced my bulkhead connector (last month) and inspected everything.. I actually need a few 12 AWG female connectors to replace .. I temporary installed 18 AWG female connectors because it's all my local parts store had.
Thanks
 
"Generally there are several areas for voltage drop. The drop you posted for the alternator stud is not bad at all. So the charging path is basically.........

Alternator stud........wire terminal.........bulkead terminal.........to welded splice (under dash harness in black wire)...........continue to ammeter............ammeter wire terminal............through ammeter..........ammeter wire terminal..............out big red wire.............back out through bulkhead.............fuse link and splices...........starter relay "big stud".............to battery

So each one of those points is a place for voltage drop on a stock car, and there of course can be more than one, and they add up. When you decide you have too much, you "simply" start going through the system with a meter to find it. "Let's say" in your test you had 2.4V instead of .4. To find that "Rig" some long leads on your meter for at least one probe. There are several ways to do this You can measure "to ground" and subtract voltage readings or you can measure "drop." You can put one probe onto battery PLUS post and track through the harness. Check where you can reach, at the ammeter, both terminals, at the interior side of the red and black wires for the bulkhead, and at the engine bay side of the bulkhead.

YOU MUST DO THIS IN THIS PART OF THE SYSTEM with a heavy load so to cause the alternator to be charging heavy, that is what causes the drop, is the CURRENT going through the wire. So you need, say, the engine running, the lights and heater blower running, etc

You simply compare readings. If you measure the black wire (charge wire) at the engine bay side of the bulkhead and at the interior side of the bulkhead, and get a reading of say, 1.5V difference that is a LOT OF DROP through a bulkhead terminal and it needs replaced

OTHER DROP: The ignition supply power, I often call "ignition run" or IGN1 is also a drop problem as this causes OVERcharging because the voltage regulator "thinks" that the battery voltage is low....because of the drop

This path......on a stocker..........is battery..........starter relay stud.........fuse link..........through bulkkhead on BIG RED.........to and through ammeter..........out on BIG BLACK..........to welded splice where it branches off to headlights, ignition switch, etc.................

through the ignition switch connector.........through switch........back out connector on (usually) dark blue IGN1 "run".............out through bulkhead connector into engine bay.........and branches off to feed VR, ignition system, electric choke, etc.

IF THIS PATH has poor connections, it drops the voltage to the voltalge regulator, and the regulator keeps ramping up battery voltage until the terminal (which is dropped) at the VR meets the VR setupoint. By this time the battery is OVER voltage

Finding it, same idea as the charging path
So I started to do some voltage drop tests..
The first one I did ( you stated it in a different post actually) with key on ( engine not running) I put one probe on positive of battery and other probe blue terminal on VR , I got a reading of 1.4 volts.
Pretty sure in your post you said you are looking for very little volts, like 0.3..
Is this still a appropriate test to do?
Thanks
 
So im assuming these are the areas for possible votage drop?
Someone said to check for a bad key switch also.. electrical is my down fall so I'm kinda going in to this blinded..
Thanks

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