Proper way to bypass heater?

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robcuda

robcuda

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Hi guys, I am running a skosh hot and do not have a heater installed yet. I am running a short loop from pump to manifold. Should I run a long dummy hose to help with heat dispersal or is this ok? I am working on the fan which is probably the issue but need opinion on this. Thank you!
stock 360 magnum

4FE480B8-88E2-424B-A0A0-889E5095BEA1.jpeg
 
There is nothing wrong with the way you have it and it shouldn’t effect the cooling of it. I try and plug the intake and pump to keep it looking cleaner when I’m not going to run a heater.

8CCC62E3-A836-46B0-A9F0-072F1BC66AF3.jpeg
 
Factory built heater delete cars just used rubber caps with clamps on the heater nipples.

No flow through.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Idling hot?
hot below 30 mph?
or hot at freeway speeds?
With or without the A/C on?
Each of these is a different problem.
Click to expand...
Im having issues with elec fan on/off settings. I have a Flex a lite fan with the radiator probe. Just can’t get the probe to work so I am installing a Dakota Digital control this weekend that taps into coolant sender. Crossing fingers that this will resolve the issue. You can bet I’ll start a new post if I can’t that to work, LOL! Just disappointed with the probe method but I think I was being overly optimistic thinking it would be a reliable method to activate fan.
 
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You could always cut the nipple and tread a plug into it, this way you never have to worry about that cheap *** nipple failing, ask me how I know.
 
Heywodja said:
You could always cut the nipple and tread a plug into it, this way you never have to worry about that cheap *** nipple failing, ask me how I know.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip! I have a lot of “ask me how I know” lessons too, LOL!
 
I set my buddies 67 Nova up with a temp switch at 190 that would turn on the fans, but also put a switch inline so you could turn the fans on. I used 2 ports of the intake. One was temp sender for the gauges and the other was temp switch. Don’t think temp senders / switches are the same.
 
Scody21 said:
Don’t think temp senders / switches are the same.
Click to expand...

a temp sender is usually a one wire deal that grounds to the engine block, and provides a variable resistance for the gauge to interpret;
providing that you have not insulated it with the wrong sealer.

A temp Switch is usually a 2-wire snap switch, on/off deal; power in and then it is relayed to whatever device you want to switch.
The actual thermo part inside can be the same for both.

You can use a 1-wire deal with the correct wiring, but will probably need a relay to get the power handling capacity that you might need, and just use the sender as the trigger. And, the sender is a variable resistance, that needs a controller so you can interpret that resistance into on/off switch, at any point on the resistance curve. I would not try to run much power thru a sender.

In both cases, the thermo-element has to be in direct contact with the coolant, and not stuck in a stagnant pocket. If the temp gets away on you, and the water boils, that vapor will try to accumulate in the highest spot of the system, usually the upper radiator hose....... or the top of the rad. As the coolant boils off, the liquid level drops, sometimes leaving your switch ignorant of the situation, which then allows your engine temp to run away..........
So if you have to run an electric system, it's best to make it a closed and fully recirculating system, that cannot accumulate vapor where ever your sensor is located.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
a temp sender is usually a one wire deal that grounds to the engine block, and provides a variable resistance for the gauge to interpret;
providing that you have not insulated it with the wrong sealer.

A temp Switch is usually a 2-wire snap switch, on/off deal; power in and then it is relayed to whatever device you want to switch.
The actual thermo part inside can be the same for both.

You can use a 1-wire deal with the correct wiring, but will probably need a relay to get the power handling capacity that you might need, and just use the sender as the trigger. And, the sender is a variable resistance, that needs a controller so you can interpret that resistance into on/off switch, at any point on the resistance curve. I would not try to run much power thru a sender.

In both cases, the thermo-element has to be in direct contact with the coolant, and not stuck in a stagnant pocket. If the temp gets away on you, and the water boils, that vapor will try to accumulate in the highest spot of the system, usually the upper radiator hose....... or the top of the rad. As the coolant boils off, the liquid level drops, sometimes leaving your switch ignorant of the situation, which then allows your engine temp to run away..........
So if you have to run an electric system, it's best to make it a closed and fully recirculating system, that cannot accumulate vapor where ever your sensor is located.
Click to expand...
The Dakota Digital, in theory, allows you to tap into the coolant temp sender. This feeds into the control which is connected to a relay for the fan. If it works I should be able to set on/off fan with accurate temps. It’s also Bluetooth programmable allowing changes remotely.
 
If you tap into the factory sender circuit;
I fear your device may alter the reading on your gauge, which is designed to work with a variable resistance over a distinct range. By adding a different resistance device, that device presents as a short, and depending on the degree of the short, the gauge will read and respond to it.
My guess is that the company has thought of that, and mentions it in their instructions, or supplies a new sender; IDK
In any case, I suppose you have proved your gauge with an IR gun ? ................
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you tap into the factory sender circuit;
I fear your device may alter the reading on your gauge, which is designed to work with a variable resistance over a distinct range. By adding a different resistance device, that device presents as a short, and depending on the degree of the short, the gauge will read and respond to it.
My guess is that the company has thought of that, and mentions it in their instructions, or supplies a new sender; IDK
In any case, I suppose you have proved your gauge with an IR gun ? ................
Click to expand...
Really good question. I am trying a sender from intellitronix that I am using for a digital dash. I do expect some inaccuracy but because it’s a magnum with OBD2 I can watch the computer temp and if there is an offset then set the controller relatively. At least that’s what I hope, LOL!
 
Heywodja said:
You could always cut the nipple and tread a plug into it, this way you never have to worry about that cheap *** nipple failing, ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

No need. The nipple bases are already pipe thread.

So just remove the nipples and thread in the proper size pipe plugs available at any good hardware store.

(Brass plugs for less possible rust)
 
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