Fuse block advice

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76dart/6

76dart/6

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Hello all ,I rarely post being alot of info I need can be found here as well as being not so great on computers/phones . Thanks for all the input .
But I have a 1976 dodge dart buzzin' half dozen. I'm interested in updating the fuse relay block with one that has a few more circuits so I can add alarms and stereo and things like that .
The issue I'm having is I'm not exactly sure how to go about doing this. I've tried the search tab but I don't think I'm entering the correct keywords. Any help is greatly appreciated .
Is it as simple as getting a new box and just running wires ?
TIA.
 
76dart/6 said:
Hello all ,I rarely post being alot of info I need can be found here as well as being not so great on computers/phones . Thanks for all the input .
But I have a 1976 dodge dart buzzin' half dozen. I'm interested in updating the fuse relay block with one that has a few more circuits so I can add alarms and stereo and things like that .
The issue I'm having is I'm not exactly sure how to go about doing this. I've tried the search tab but I don't think I'm entering the correct keywords. Any help is greatly appreciated .
Is it as simple as getting a new box and just running wires ?
TIA.
Click to expand...
@Mattax
Or a few others can most likely give you advice to where to search.
 
Welp, it's not "that" easy. The Chrysler electrical system is already pretty minimal. When you start adding other circuits, you start finding out real quick how to let the smoke out. I'm FAR from an electrical genius, but @67Dart273, @Mattax and a few other guys can tell you all about what you really need to do.
 
76dart/6 said:
I'm interested in updating the fuse relay block with one that has a few more circuits so I can add alarms and stereo and things like that .
Click to expand...
See what 67Dart273 says.
I wouldn't replace the original fuse block - especially on a '76.
Make a list of exactly the items you want to add, how much power they will draw, and whether they will be drawing power with the engine running, or the key in accessory or run, or the with the key off.
Then we can figure out the most appropriate locations to add the circuit. It might be a spare fuse location in the existing fusebox, it might be an auxilery box, etc.

Here's a simplified diagram of the '76 power scheme.
upload_2021-4-7_11-16-2-png.png



An explanation of how it works is in this post.
Note the fuse box has some fuses that are always hot, and some that are on hot when the key is in run or accessory.
Be aware there are some circuits without fuses or circuit breakers, and others where the breakers are incorporporated into the switches.
 
this may be a good time to suggest you look into bypassing the amp meter

also, check in with @TrailBeast , hes pretty good with electrical
 
Mattax said:
This makes no sense
Click to expand...


what part doesnt?

the first line was me suggesting he looks into bypassing the amp meter (because he's doing electrical work now anyway)

the second part was me suggesting another member whom he could bounce questions of
 
diymirage said:
this may be a good time to suggest you look into bypassing the amp meter
also, check in with @TrailBeast , hes pretty good with electrical
Click to expand...
The 76 model amp gauge is different from all other models of a-body. No need to do anything to it.
The car has a radio fuse that should handle the typical aftermarket stereo head. Amplifiers require another power supply to their location.
 
diymirage said:
what part doesnt?

the first line was me suggesting he looks into bypassing the amp meter (because he's doing electrical work now anyway)

the second part was me suggesting another member whom he could bounce questions of
Click to expand...
By bypass that suggests that the ammeter is in the flow path, which its not. That will remain true regardless of where the power for the new devices are drawn from.
 
Mattax said:
By bypass that suggests that the ammeter is in the flow path, which its not. That will remain true regardless of where the power for the new devices are drawn from.
Click to expand...

as redfish pointed out, the 76 has a different set up then all the others
i was not aware of that, so maybe thats why it didnt make sense
 
Here's what I did. A few years ago I replaced all the wiring harnesses including the fuse box and bulkhead on both sides, bought from Classic Industries, not cheap! After installing my Holley Sniper EFI and fuel pump as well as the Hyper Spark ignition I was concerned about the draw through the factory system. I left the factory wiring in place and added a terminal block next to the alternator. Its fused where it returns to the battery as well as all the new circuits. Also I added a Powermaster 95 amp alternator. It's working fine.

IMG_3694.jpg


IMG_3695.jpg
 
RedFish said:
The 76 model amp gauge is different from all other models of a-body. No need to do anything to it.
The car has a radio fuse that should handle the typical aftermarket stereo head. Amplifiers require another power supply to their location.
Click to expand...
^^READ THIS^^

The 76--and a member just sent me an ammeter out of one to play with--uses what is called an "external shunt" ammeter--which actually uses the harness itself as a shunt. This greatly reduces the load on the bulkhead connector, as only the loads on the system go into the interior through the bulkhead. That does NOT mean that the bulkhead connector is completely "OK" but "it might be" And it does NOT mean that you can add a big bunch'a loads that are carried by the bulkhead connector, without damaging it

It ALSO means you might have to do some research on WHERE to connect loads so that they correctly read on the ammeter. One "fer certain" spot is the alternator output stud

So far as a fuse / relay panel there are many ways. You could even go to the junkyard and get one out of a minivan, Jeep or "you'll just have to browze" and then do some re-wiring in the relay panel
 
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