You said;
To my understanding the earlier you open the intake the more pressure the cylinder will build.
Almost right; but at cranking speed, the engine cannot begin to build cylinder pressure until the intake valve is closed and Not leaking. Since bigger cams close the intake later, the pressure goes down, and you feel that pressure loss as; from lazyness to downright dogginess.
To understand this, you have to know the sequence of valve events.
Beginning from TDC compression; both valves are closed. The piston has come up and compressed the mixture, and it's ready to perform it's work. In an idling engine, the fire was lit around 14 to 20* Before TDC, to make peak pressure at near 28* After TDC. The pressure turns the crank, and by about 90 to 110 degrees After TDC, the pressure transfer is finished, and so, the exhaust valve begins to open. This lets the exhaust out, and this will continue as the piston continues back to TDC, but this time NOT on compression stroke.
Just before the piston reaches TDC, the INTAKE valve will begin to open, while the EXHAUST valve is almost closed. This period of time is called overlap
A little AFTER TDC, the exhaust closes, and the piston is moving down, making room for the incoming air. Thus the INTAKE valve continues to open, then begins to close, BUT, it will not fully close until the piston is stopped , and again rising. It may not be fully closed, with a big cam, until the piston is 1/3 or more of the way up to TDC-compression.
I hope that is understandable.
Now, the reason for the late closing intake, is that as the rpm rises, the incoming air has inertia, and the longer that you keep that intake open, the more air will be able to enter the engine. And that is how you make a low-rpm engine work at a higher rpm. And the faster you can spin it without choking the engine, the more power it will make.
But;
this monkey business wreaks havoc at low rpm. At this time, as the piston is rising with the intake valve still open, it pushes some of that just inducted mixture back out the chamber and into the plenum. Of course, that means less air was trapped in the cylinder, so the pressure is down. And pressure is power, so the less pressure you have, the less power you have.
Say you have a 400 cube V8 engine, that's 50 cubes per cylinder. Now suppose it has a small cam, and at stall speed at some small throttle-opening, each cylinder is able to inhale 20 cubic inches. That would be an efficiency of 20/50=40%.
Now suppose you put a big cam in there with a later-closing intake, that at the very same throttle-opening, 1/4 of the just inducted air was forced back into the intake. Now your efficiency is down to (3/4 of 20) /50=30%..
So you would feel that as a 40% less 30% divided by 40%= a 25% torque loss. So to overcome that you would have to open the throttle more, to make up the difference. And you call it sucked out.
But as the rpm increases, there is less and less time for this turn-around to happen, and eventually your engine could get to 90 or 100 or sometimes even more than 100% efficient.
There are only four ways to stop this from happening;
1) is more Static Compression Ratio, to compress that less trapped air, to a higher level, or
2) to close the intake valve sooner, or
3) to start with a bigger engine
4) to install reed valves in the runners, lol.
As to #1, you have to keep your Dynamic Cylinder Pressure within the limit of your chosen gas to resist detonation. So you cannot arbitrarily increase the pressure to the moon!
As to #2, if you want to keep the high-rpm power, you will have to keep the .050 valve events. So there are limits as to what you can do.
As to #3, well, that's why strokers have become so popular
As to #4, that's a joke,lol. This is how some two-stroke engines make power.
OK, now to answer your question;
Is there a way to calculate cranking cylinder pressure for this cam?
Answer; not for the Wallace calculator;
To calculate the pressure, you need the advertised cam specs like;
284/284/112 +4
But the Wallace does not work with mechanical cams, because there is no way to know the actual events because there is no zero-lash spec.
Therefore, the simplest thing to do, is a cranking compression test. From those numbers, the truth will be revealed. Just be sure that your valves are correctly lashed.
The pressure to run is very subjective. Some guys are happy at 155 with a big iron-headed engine. And some like me, really appreciate 180psi with alloy heads on a 360. If I had a smaller engine, I would push towards 200psi, again with alloys..
But be advised, once the engine is built, cranking pressure is almost totally dependent on the Intake closing angle, AND the elevation at which the engine is being cranked at.
As to the first, you can change that by increasing the lash.
As to the second;Wiki says you are up at about 850 ft, so that's not so bad, with a big engine.
Edited after the fact so refresh your screen.