15x10 fitment on non-tubbed Duster

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go-fish

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Hi folks, looking for some advice and discussion on putting 15x10 Keystone's on Arthur's Duster .
The situation is this, I have a couple of 489 cases I can build with different ratios. I have several C-body housings at my disposal from a friend to choose from.
For Arthur's Duster I would like to stick with Day 2 mods and resist the urge to put 17" or 18" wheels on it. I have always loved the Keystone look and think of all the Day 2 wheels (US Mag Slots, Cragar S/S, ....) they look the best. Problem is they only come in one offset per wheel width.
I was planning on upgrading from the 8.25" to the 8.75" anyway so a custom length rearend is not out of the question.
The wheel housing on my Duster is 12+ in wide so a 275 or a 295 could fit.

This red Duster I found on Moparts is the look I'm going for but I would not mind if I had to keep the rear raised a little higher than that. That car looks amazing.
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"It has the Mopar 3/4" offset spring kit. Caltrac monoleaf springs minus 1 inch with rancho shocks.15x10 Billet Specialties with 5.5 backspace,275/60/Mickey Thompsons,stock width 8 3/4 with drum brakes.The outer wheel lip was trimmed.The front is stock except for caltrac 90/10 shocks and the 318 torsion bars lowered to within 1/2 inch of trimmed bumpstops.When pics were taken it had 165 metric radials on the front which were a little over 25 inches tall. We now have Hoosier 26 inch front runners. Stock inner wheel tubs. "

My car has the 3" inboard leaf spring relocation but I would like to put the Doctor Diff spring relocation on it so I can route the factory exhaust under it and use OE exhaust tips.

The Keystone's 15x10 only comes with a 4.125" backspace. Should I be talked out of this or proceed forward with buying the wheels to start mocking up and measuring for the rear housing width?
 
It might be doable, but you'd have to build the rear housing "into" the wheels. Seems like .75" narrower per side than OEM would be the housing width (1.5" overall because my wheels have .75 more offset than the Keystones.). Not sure if my B/E body rear drum brakes will affect your measurements. Off-hand the biggest concern would seem to be if the welded shoulder of the housing ends might interfere with the outer u-bolts. I also don't know if there are any concerns with Cal-Tracs being used with 3/4" offset spring mounts. (But the red car has them?)

My Dart Sport:
* OEM width 8 3/4" housing
* Mopar offset leaf spring mounts - 1/2"-3/4". (Don't recall actual measurements.)
* Holeshot 15"x10" wheels with an advertised 4 7/8" offset
* Tires are 9"x30" Hoosier radial slicks. Measured section width is approx. 12 3/8"

Inside fender lip was heavily modified as was the little "skirt" on the frame rail for clearance. Shorter tires may not cause a problem, but should be checked. Car is at a shop 1/2 hour away so I can't take any additional measurements at the moment. But here are the best pics I could find that show the fitment.

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ATC3.JPG


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Forgot to mention that the wheel lips have been trimmed. I am totally fine with building the rearend to fit the wheels. I was going to build an 8-3/4" for it anyway. Before I was going to put a 67-70 B-body rear in it but that didn't pan out the way I wanted and had to cut on it to get the 3rd member out. I was going to go with some 18’s at that point but have decided to keep it Day 2 because the previous owner would not have agreed with something that wasn’t period correct.
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@Locomotion Thanks for bringing up the point about the housing ends being close to the U-bolts. Worst case scenario would be having to stay with the 3" relocation deal. I wanted to get the leaf out of the frame pocket. You cannot run factory exhaust with the passenger side leaf moved that far in. With a MP or Dr. Diff 1/2" relocation it is possible to run the OEM exhaust and the tip. The tips are what I would really like to keep but running Keystone's are higher on the "want" list.

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If you want to use that size keystones, with that little backspace, you are definately gonna have to narrow the housing to suit.
Personally, i would keep the relocation kit, get a cheap summit or jegs exhaust system so you can use your exhaust tips, and then get,or make, a custom fuel tank/fuel cell to work. Imo the best way to get a ten inch wheel under it.
(Put the tire you want to run on the wheels before you do any measurements).
 
your comment about the U-bolts being close to the housing end; I had parts from a previous purchase where the U-bolts were on the housing end. Previous owner had used models from a 4-wheel drive and opened up the holes on the shock plate to work. Maybe that would help...I believe he had the bolt-in offset hangers and shackles. It's been a while, memory fuzzy.
 
your comment about the U-bolts being close to the housing end; I had parts from a previous purchase where the U-bolts were on the housing end. Previous owner had used models from a 4-wheel drive and opened up the holes on the shock plate to work. Maybe that would help...I believe he had the bolt-in offset hangers and shackles. It's been a while, memory fuzzy.

I wonder if it came down to putting a larger radius U-bolt on the outboard end if the offset would put the tire into the leaf. The 15x10 Keystone's only come in a 4.125" backspace. The 15x8's come in a 3.875 backspace and I would be running the same 275 tire so the same limitations are there as a 275 on a 10" wheel, I'm sure. May as well go for the 15x10 and custom length housing.

Is the next thing to do just to pull the trigger and buy a 15x10 and a 275? If it goes well I would see if a 295 would work when the 275's wear out.
 
I wonder if it came down to putting a larger radius U-bolt on the outboard end if the offset would put the tire into the leaf.
THAT'S what I was trying to say! If I could have drawn a picture it would have come out better than my rattling on.
 
Now I'm having second thoughts on the backspace limited Keystones.
Was looking at front wheels after focusing on rear wheel specs.

15x7 Keystone's backspace is 3.75" and 15x6 is 3.063". From pouring through the forum it seems that for a Duster a 4"-4.5" is desired. Seems like the tires on wheels with these offsets would be hitting the lip of the fender. The car is already painted and I don't want to roll the fender.

Damn. Wish the Keystones had more than one backspace option per wheel width.
 
Back spacing is the single biggest issue for the MoPars IMO with a lack of verity to further sour the issue.

Id like very much to do steelies myself on my Duster. Wheel Vintques has what I want.
 
There is always an alternative....... LADDER BARS!

The rear isn't so much of a concern now as I have measured the wheel tubs (+ trimmed wheel openings).
The car has previously had the 3" spring relocation done so the springs can be taken out of the wheel fitment equation.

Now I've got to look into the front. Looking like the 15x7 (that I wanted to run) doesn't have the right backspace and I'll need to start looking at the 15x6 and tire choices. Would like to run a 225 or a 235.
 
@72bluNblu Kind Sir, I am having an heck of a time trying to figure out if the Keystone's in 15x7 (3.75" bs) will fit in front without getting into the fender lip and still clear the ball joint.
I have just made a deal on a 1968 B-body 8.75" housing and I have several C-body housing's available to cut down so the 15X10 Keystone's 4.125" bs isn't a big deal. However, if I can't make the fronts work I might just have to scrap the Keystone idea due to having no options for backspace. I know the B-body housing won't work for the Keystone backspaces, it's just for 17's or 18's if I ever go that route.

Here's what we're working with:
1973 Duster. Rear wheel openings trimmed. Currently has 3" spring relocation and plans to do Dr. Diff's 1/2" relocation so I can use the OEM repro exhaust system and tips that I have. Can cut housing to custom length. Front wheel openings stock.

15x6 = 3.063" bs
15x7 = 3.75" bs
15x8 = 3.875" bs
15x10 = 4.125" bs

225/70 -15
Diameter= 27.4" Section Width=9.1" Tread Width= 7.2"

235/60-15
Diameter= 26.1" Section Width=9.2" Tread Width= 7.6"

245/60-15
Diameter= 26.6" Section Width= 9.5" Tread Width= 8.00"

275/60-15
Diameter= 28.1" Section Width= 10.7" Tread Width= 8.90"

295/50-15
Diameter=26.8" Section Width=12.22" Tread Width= 10.1"
 
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Forgot to mention that the wheel lips have been trimmed. I am totally fine with building the rearend to fit the wheels. I was going to build an 8-3/4" for it anyway. Before I was going to put a 67-70 B-body rear in it but that didn't pan out the way I wanted and had to cut on it to get the 3rd member out. I was going to go with some 18’s at that point but have decided to keep it Day 2 because the previous owner would not have agreed with something that wasn’t period correct.
View attachment 1715774290 View attachment 1715774292

@Locomotion Thanks for bringing up the point about the housing ends being close to the U-bolts. Worst case scenario would be having to stay with the 3" relocation deal. I wanted to get the leaf out of the frame pocket. You cannot run factory exhaust with the passenger side leaf moved that far in. With a MP or Dr. Diff 1/2" relocation it is possible to run the OEM exhaust and the tip. The tips are what I would really like to keep but running Keystone's are higher on the "want" list.

View attachment 1715774291

It was rebuildable. lol
 
"Jesus, guide my tongue"

I typed something else but I'm going to be nice and let the pics speak for themselves.

Maybe go read the book of James. LMAO
 
...and I know it ain't funny, but sometimes humor is all you got.
 
Yes, Sir. @RustyRatRod

Consider it pure joy, my brothers and sisters, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith produces perseverance. Let perseverance finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything.
 
@72bluNblu Kind Sir, I am having an heck of a time trying to figure out if the Keystone's in 15x7 (3.75" bs) will fit in front without getting into the fender lip and still clear the ball joint.
I have just made a deal on a 1968 B-body 8.75" housing and I have several C-body housing's available to cut down so the 15X10 Keystone's 4.125" bs isn't a big deal. However, if I can't make the fronts work I might just have to scrap the Keystone idea due to having no options for backspace. I know the B-body housing won't work for the Keystone backspaces, it's just for 17's or 18's if I ever go that route.

Here's what we're working with:
1973 Duster. Rear wheel openings trimmed. Currently has 3" spring relocation and plans to do Dr. Diff's 1/2" relocation so I can use the OEM repro exhaust system and tips that I have. Can cut housing to custom length. Front wheel openings stock.

15x6 = 3.063" bs
15x7 = 3.75" bs
15x8 = 3.875" bs
15x10 = 4.125" bs

225/70 -15
Diameter= 27.4" Section Width=9.1" Tread Width= 7.2"

235/60-15
Diameter= 26.1" Section Width=9.2" Tread Width= 7.6"

245/60-15
Diameter= 26.6" Section Width= 9.5" Tread Width= 8.00"

275/60-15
Diameter= 28.1" Section Width= 10.7" Tread Width= 8.90"

295/50-15
Diameter=26.8" Section Width=12.22" Tread Width= 10.1"

In the front to clear a 225 you’ll need a 15x7 with a 4.25” backspace. Most of these cars will not clear a 235 in the front on a 15x7”, 4.25” backspace isn’t enough and any more than 4.5” generally causes ball joint/brake clearance issues.

The other thing is the height. Unless your front tires are super narrow, the height becomes an issue at around 26”. You will not clear 225/70/15’s at any backspace unless you plan on running like a gasser with the nose 4’ in the air.

With a 15x7” and 3.75” of backspace the best you’re likely to do is a 205/65/15. That puts the outside of the tire in the same spot as my 275/35/18’s. If you’re lowered up front you might have to roll the fender lips like I did. At stock height it wasn’t an issue.

With a 15x7 BBP wheel you really need 4.25” of backspace, and even then about the max you can run is a 225/60/15.
 
In the front

Thank you very much for your expertise. Looks like the Keystone idea is dead for this car. They don't make custom offsets and they only have one (horrible) backspace option per wheel width.

Now I am thinking I will build this 68'-70' housing and find a Day 2 wheel that actually has backspace options.
 
295/50-15 on a 15x10 with 4” backspace. Chrysler 8-1/4” rearend.

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Edit: Previously mis-stated that it was a 4.5" backspace.
 
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Thinking about building a 8.75” to the 8.25” width. Looks like a 1/2” Doctor Diff spring relocation will work and the MP/ US Cartool 3” relocation may be overkill if someone wanted to pull this off.
My wheel openings are trimmed and they could have some more trimmed off. Springs are unknown. No fuel in tank. No spare. 295’s are pretty close to the wheel opening and I would trim a hair more if I was going to run them. I would get the 275/60-15 though.

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I actually bought these wheels for the Adventure Sport.

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@QuickDart360 I think it is a 4" bs. I just went out and checked from the front with it still being mounted. Las night when I checked I must have had the straight edge on top of the tire a bit.
I'll edit the previous post to say 4" backspace.
 
No offense meant, but good luck with that "day two" thing. Most true day two wheels, mags anyway, came as one piece, no choice of offset. I think you will run into the same problem with one piece wheels now.
I have some new 15x10 vn105 one piece TTD that have 3 3/4 bs, so same problem as your keystones.
I also have a pair of 50 year old ansen five spokes, and a set of four 200s daisies, all 15x8 1/2, all 3 1/2 bs. They are all difficult to get on a car without a full open wheel well.
I think if you really want a day two look, you are gonna need a two piece varient of an original one piece wheel. To me, that means a tt2, or a 200s. TT2, are very common (maybe because they can be made to fit) and daisies (200s) are crazy expensive, maybe why they are UNcommon.
Again, no offense, but maybe if you scaled down to a 15x8 or 8 1/2, you would end up happier, with less work. You can still get a bunch of tire on an 8 1/2 rim.
 
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