How to deal with HT bad seals between front/ quarter windows?

-
67Dart273

67Dart273

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
60,035
Reaction score
33,295
Location
Idaho
74 Scamp 2dr HT the vertical rubber between the side glass and quarter windows. Driver side especially is all torn up down near door level. I'm not planning on driving this much in the rain, but it will not withstand much, and washing it will be a PITA

Ideas?
 
Post some photos. If it is what I think it is they are replaceable. Did it last year on my 67 convertible
 
I did not think they were. There is only one, it is the vertical seal between the two side windows, bonded? to the driver's glass
 
Are you talking the seal at the vertical between the front and rear window of a hard top? Where the seal is split in this photo? On the left.
IMG_20200326_180626_exported_966_1628052461071.jpg


This is what I was thinking of, guess it is different in 74
MD1610 - 1966-72 Mopar Quarter Window Glass Vertical Seal ; Pair ; A & B-Body
 
Last edited:
They changed the door glass in '73 (no vent windows) maybe they changed the 1/4 seal also? I don't know.

My guess is any 1/4 seal listed for 73÷ would work.
 
On the 67 the rear window has a chrome strip attached to the glass. The seal goes into the chrome strip. Dang near lost the use of both my thumbs trying to get the seal in.

OEM has a molded in top cover. Aftermarket it is glued on, (or should I say was glued on)
Interesting to see DMTs note about fit flocked vs unflocked
 
The thing is, does the "new " one come with the chorme/stainless peice then , can the old one be unglued and new glued back on? Im talking about the 72 on back piece.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
The thing is, does the "new " one come with the chorme/stainless peice then , can the old one be unglued and new glued back on? Im talking about the 72 on back piece.
Click to expand...
The metal piece between the door glass and the 1/4 glass is stainless not chrome. The stainless piece is held to the edge of the glass with "glass setting tape".(and on my convertible, it's also riveted to the pot metal glass retainer) The rubber seal is a separate piece and can easily be replaced. It just slides out the bottom of the stainless piece. The new seal will slide in...no glue needed.
 
burdar said:
The metal piece between the door glass and the 1/4 glass is stainless not chrome. The stainless piece is held to the edge of the glass with "glass setting tape".(and on my convertible, it's also riveted to the pot metal glass retainer) The rubber seal is a separate piece and can easily be replaced. It just slides out the bottom of the stainless piece. The new seal will slide in...no glue needed.
Click to expand...
That solves the mystery. I would have thought it would come off metal and all and you could re glue the new one.
 
If door hinges are worn and door has dropped, new seal will still leak at car wash. My mistake was adjusting the quarter glass to stop the leak before rebuilding the drivers door hinges. Once the door was in correct position I had to start over at quarter glass alignment.
 
I imagine the techs back in the day complained about all this adjusting, convertibles are a pain too.
 
RedFish said:
If door hinges are worn and door has dropped, new seal will still leak at car wash. My mistake was adjusting the quarter glass to stop the leak before rebuilding the drivers door hinges. Once the door was in correct position I had to start over at quarter glass alignment.
Click to expand...
Yup, and these may need some attention, but the seal at least on driver side is torn bad near the bottom. By the way I took it to a car wash yesterday............and the rear glass............still leaks...........
 
burdar said:
The metal piece between the door glass and the 1/4 glass is stainless not chrome. The stainless piece is held to the edge of the glass with "glass setting tape".(and on my convertible, it's also riveted to the pot metal glass retainer) The rubber seal is a separate piece and can easily be replaced. It just slides out the bottom of the stainless piece. The new seal will slide in...no glue needed.
Click to expand...

I got a pair of these from DTM for my '65 Barracuda - just wondering of any "tricks" to get them slid into the stainless trim piece. they go VERY tight....any good experience is apprecaited as I have never done this before and afraid I will tear the new ones up....thanks in advance to anyone who can share some knowledge at me....
 
stackattack said:
I got a pair of these from DTM for my '65 Barracuda - just wondering of any "tricks" to get them slid into the stainless trim piece. they go VERY tight....any good experience is apprecaited as I have never done this before and afraid I will tear the new ones up....thanks in advance to anyone who can share some knowledge at me
Click to expand...
I tried to slide my new ones in from the bottom. I used windex, soap, you name it.

I could only get it in about 1/2 way.

I ultimatly put it in by inserting one side and pressing the other inder the front lip (might have been the rear lip???? )

Lots of windex and thumb pressure.
 
Thanks for the comments. Still in the middle of this
 
Ugh. Guess ill just get into and see how I do. I had considered the one side then pressure the other like you mentioned - guess ill give that a go. Thanks
 
There are slippery things like for pulling wires in conduit but i dont know what that might do to SS or rubber
 
Finally got around to dealing with these. I used straight Dawn blue dish soap - no water mix. It evaporates quick so i would lube the stainless rail a few inches and the two contact edges on the rubber. Went top to bottom pushing it down the rail re-greasing every 3-4 inches.

After reading this back to make sure it made sense, my next thought was ...

"Thats what she said."

All done but my thumbs are 'bout to fall off.
 
I got the seals from Detroit Muscle Tech. I'll try and get some photos to post...
 
They are challenging!

I forget which ones I purchased but I believe they were SoftSeal.

The channel must be absolutely scrubbed "clean" before attempting this.

I used a soap lubricant and still had a very difficult time getting them slid up the stainless glass extension from the bottom up. It was call the wife and push and pull solution!

The seal is rubber backed but flocked on the glass facing side.

IMG_2971.jpg
 
1969383S said:
The seal is rubber backed but flocked on the glass facing side
Click to expand...
I see the rubber "cap" on yours is pulled up just like happened to mine. Why cant they just make them exactly like the oem!!!!

Aaaaerrrggg!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top