How much HP would you guess my 340 produces?

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I dunno but here is a feller in the other thread saying his 318 is "faster" that a 340...:lol:
 
How would a cam like that affect drivability? Especially at low speeds?
Thats the next Comp Cam up from mine. You will need a 3000+ convertor to use it and it is happy turning some RPM's. 6000+. Look on comps site thay have dyno charts for each XE grind plus minimum requirements such as compression and convertor.
 
There must be a track near you. Weigh it, run it and plug the mph into the calculator. Get you close enough. Dyno’s can be stingy or very happy. Track is brutally honest. My car chassis dyno’ed at 343 RWHP and weighs 3445 with me in it. The calculators put me at 430 RWHP at 3445 lbs and 117 mph. I dyno’ed it for the shape of the curve and where. Not the number.
 
There must be a track near you. Weigh it, run it and plug the mph into the calculator. Get you close enough. Dyno’s can be stingy or very happy. Track is brutally honest. My car chassis dyno’ed at 343 RWHP and weighs 3445 with me in it. The calculators put me at 430 RWHP at 3445 lbs and 117 mph. I dyno’ed it for the shape of the curve and where. Not the number.

People get lost in dyno numbers and lose sight that it's just a tool, just like a timing light or a tire pressure gauge. If your engine doesn't the power it should for the sum of the parts do some investigating to find out why. It's easier on a dyno than in a car.
 
There must be a track near you. Weigh it, run it and plug the mph into the calculator. Get you close enough. Dyno’s can be stingy or very happy. Track is brutally honest. My car chassis dyno’ed at 343 RWHP and weighs 3445 with me in it. The calculators put me at 430 RWHP at 3445 lbs and 117 mph. I dyno’ed it for the shape of the curve and where. Not the number.
There is a strip about 40 miles away I could run at. When I use to own a Shelby Cobra replica years ago, I calculated my HP using the method you describe.
 
So I finally made contact with the guy who built my '72 Duster and I now have some of the history of this vehicle. Apparently it was a drag car that a previous owner ran somewhere in Florida for the past however many years. The PO decided to retire the car and turn it into a "street" car. The PO rebuilt the engine and refreshed the chassis before selling it to the gentlemen who finished restoring the car. The guy who finished the car then sold it to the dealer from whom I purchased it from.

These are the specs according to the man who finished building the car. He says that he thinks the engine produces about 350hp. I think that given the mods, it should produce closer to 400 but since it hasn't been on a dyno it's anybodys guess.

340 cid Mopar Engine. Blueprinted and balanced. .30 over. TRW flat top pistons. Mopar steel crank, Mopar performance rods. ARP fastners. Holley Sniper EFI with Hyperspark distributor. Professionally tuned. Edlebrock Aluminum Heads. Weiand Aluminum Intake. Comp cams hydraulic roller cam. 490/490 lift, 262 duration. 10.5-1 CR. MSD Blaster SS Coil. 8mm Plug Wires. Aluminum Radiator. 6-Blade Aluminum Cooling Fan. Hooker Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers. 2.5” Magnaflow exhaust.

I added the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark after I purchased the car. It originally came with an Edlebrock 600cfm carb. I also added the Autometer instrument cluster.

These are the rest of the specs if anyone is interested.

Wilwood 4-Wheel Disc Brakes. 6 piston front, 4 piston rear. Drilled and Slotted Front and Rear Rotors. Power brakes with silent electric rotary vacuum pump in trunk. Special limited edition American Racing classic Torque Thrust “D”18 Inch Wheels. Front Tires: 235/40 ZR/18. Rear Tires: 245/50/ZR18. Backspace 41/2 front, 51/2 rear. Hub stubs.
727 Torqueflite Automatic Transmission. Center Console shift. 3.91 Gear Ratio. 2400 stall converter. Dana 8 3/4 Rear. POSI Rear End. Moser axels w/5 on 4/3/4 hubs, front and rear. QAI powercoated front end with neoprene bushings. Tubular Upper Control Arms. Powder coated sub-frame and K member.

Autometer custom gauges insert. Black 340 Side Stripes. Black Carpeting. Black Dash. Black Door Panels. Black Headliner. Black Vinyl Interior. Chrome Front and Rear Bumpers. Driver Side Mirror. Duster 340 Tail Panel Decals. Fiberglass Hood and front fenders. Estimated 300 lb weight reduction. Hood pins. Front Bucket Seats. Hood Scoop. Matte Black Hood Stripe. Rear Bench Seat. Three point harness seat Belts. Sublime Green Exterior.
If the engine runs well and the car is driveable dont worry about the numbers you will drive yourself nuts.
Drive it alot and be happy you can only do so much with 340 cid's.
I would not attempt to put a larger cam in it to "wake it up" you are more likely to "screw it up"
Been there done that, I will soon be in the process of removing the larger cam from my 340 which happens to be a Comp WR274HR-10
 
If the engine runs well and the car is driveable dont worry about the numbers you will drive yourself nuts.
Drive it alot and be happy you can only do so much with 340 cid's.
I would not attempt to put a larger cam in it to "wake it up" you are more likely to "screw it up"
Been there done that, I will soon be in the process of removing the larger cam from my 340 which happens to be a Comp WR274HR-10
Very good suggestion. I don't race the car so it doesn't really make much sense for me to make any changes. The car runs fine the way it is. I was simply wanting to see how much HP I might have / be able to get out of the motor.
 
All I know is almost all folks I've met at car shows (and even here) with street cars that brag about a big hp number have cars that do not run the mph at the track that the dyno hp number would predict. At that point, the "HP" number is just a pathetic machismo thing.

If you never plan to take it to the track, don't worry about how much hp it makes - just enjoy the hell out of it.
 
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