Cam degreeing. I totally don't understand.
so what type of performance issues would arise going dot to dot vs degreeing? has anyone experienced a "revelation" when degreeing as in the car **** and git way better than dot to dot?
Let's say the probable range of dot to dot installation might be from 4* retarded to say 6* advanced. That is a range of 10 degrees and a possible range of pressure change, in a small-block, of say up to 15psi, which is HUGE. And, if your design was already borderline at straight up, then, like said, you could be into detonation. But if you were already at borderline too low, now you have a slug.
But it doesn't end there.
Retarding or advancing a cam, changes the power peak, some say 100 rpm over 4 degrees. If the powerpeak comes down, then the power will be less. If the peak goes up, the power could go up. This is because Horsepower is a mathematically derived equation of torque times rpm. More torque at a higher rpm always results in more power at that higher rpm.
So after all this talk, what are we actually talking about?
Well the 15 psi speaks for itself; at a design pressure of 160psi your iron headed engine is about maxed out, pressure wise.
An extra 6*of cam advance or ~9 psi psi will require best gas or more, and very likely special timing precautions. If you get into detonation, you will lose power. If you retard the ignition timing you will lose power. If you install thicker head gaskets you will lose power.
Still at a design of 160psi, if you cam comes in at 4* retard and you lose 6psi, you can make the switch to a lower octane gas alrighty, but at 156 psi the entire low-speed operating range will lose power, while the top end will be extended slightly, and you might pick up a few ponies, maybe up to half a cam's worth at most.
But here's the thing;
If you have engine tuning issues, and you have installed the timing set dot-to-dot, you have no idea where your cam-timing is, nor if it is the root cause of your tuning issues, or not. If you don't keep the cam-timing in the back of your mind, you might spend hours or days chasing your tail around and around.
I went thru that once with the Mopar 292/292/108 cam, and after moving the cam several times, I just got rid of it.
Having said all that:
if your engine is already assembled, installed, and it tuned ok, then forget about it. From tuned ok, to runs like a raped-ape, will not usually be found in the cam timing.
If anything, run a compression test.
