Engine stays running without key in ignition (and more!)
Maybe my understanding of your ammeter voltage reading is not what you meant.
The voltage measurements dont add up.
If the alternator output was at 16.4 V, and there was a .75 V drop across the ammeter, then the voltage at the battery should have been around 15.7 V
But you measured 16.4 volts at both the battery and the alternator. If thats correct, then there must have been a very bad connection between the main splice and the ignition wire point where you measured 14.6 V
Hope that makes sense.
Now that's its running close to normal, you could test for voltage drops again.
The battery should recharge quickly after start. When the ammeter is showing zero, you can add known loads by turn, the heater fan, lights etc and measuring for voltage drop.
Column connectors can be a problem point, as can be the bulkhead connector.
PS. There's another example of voltage drop in this post. Maybe that one is clearer.
Maybe my understanding of your ammeter voltage reading is not what you meant.
The voltage measurements dont add up.
If the alternator output was at 16.4 V, and there was a .75 V drop across the ammeter, then the voltage at the battery should have been around 15.7 V
But you measured 16.4 volts at both the battery and the alternator. If thats correct, then there must have been a very bad connection between the main splice and the ignition wire point where you measured 14.6 V
Hope that makes sense.
Now that's its running close to normal, you could test for voltage drops again.
The battery should recharge quickly after start. When the ammeter is showing zero, you can add known loads by turn, the heater fan, lights etc and measuring for voltage drop.
Column connectors can be a problem point, as can be the bulkhead connector.
PS. There's another example of voltage drop in this post. Maybe that one is clearer.