Primer

You are on step 1, with epoxy primer. Epoxy is simply a metal sealer, to prevent corrosion. It is waterproof and the best way to protect bare metal.

Now I would recommend sanding it with 400, and shoot it with a 2K primer. Then do your body work on top of that. When you are satisfied with your body work, sand it with 320 and shoot the entire car with Feather Fill G2. At this point you have a decision to make... You can shoot your base over the Feather Fill, but be prepared to lay down a couple of extra coats. The FF will soak some up.

Or, sand the FF with 400 and shoot the car with a sealer. Then you can lay your base coat down on top of the sealer.

Paint jobs are not a quick in and out thing. Lots of steps involved.
Amen to the part about paint jobs not being quick. My Recipe: Strip to bare metal, cover all metal with 2-3 coats of Epoxy Primer, lightly block sand entire car with 220 and Dura Block sanding blocks (and use your hands) to find that bad spots, Fix all bad spots with GOOD filler (I like Evercoat Rage Gold), get the body work as perfect as possible, Spray on 3 coats of G2 high build primer, spray guide coat on all primer and then block the primer with 220 followed by 320, Fix any bad places the guide coat exposes with spot putty (or glazing putty, block the cured glazing putty with 120 followed by 220, apply 2-3 more coats of G2 high build polyester primer, apply guide coat and block this final primer with 220 then 320 then 400 dry, then wet sand with 320 and 400. Now you can apply sealer and paint. It may sound like I apply a lot of primer, but most of it gets sanded off.
@Ron816, You appear to be confident that your car is ready to paint. I'd bet you a bunch of money that if you applied a few coats of high build polyester primer and then block sanded it after applying guide coat, you will find plenty of problem areas that need some attention. And you will be glad you didn't paint over them. Even minor flaws look bad when they are shiny.