Electrical help
Use the factory and color them in if you need.
67Dart273 pretty much has you covered in post 7 and 10.
I assume you hae a multimeter. Since you said all accessories are dead, you could disconnect the battery and check for continuity between the J1 wire to the key switch, and the Q2 wire.
Here's the basic scheme of how all the stuff connects.
This is just to help you picture how the circuits relate.
Several of the fuses are always hot.
Several others are only hot when the key is run or accessory.
One, usually 3 amps, is for the instrument lights.
If your car came equiped with an electric defrost grid in th erear window, the routing is a little different. For your situation, the difference shouldnt matter.
Not likely. The ignition circuit only powers engine critical items; ignition, alternator's rotor, and on a '74 might be choke assist, carb solenoid and similar.
Now that's different. Most people assume 'repop ignition' means a new electronic control box. The ignition switch has a one power feed going in, but several going out. One of those going out is called Ignition (run) and another ignition (start).
Use the factory and color them in if you need.
67Dart273 pretty much has you covered in post 7 and 10.
I assume you hae a multimeter. Since you said all accessories are dead, you could disconnect the battery and check for continuity between the J1 wire to the key switch, and the Q2 wire.
Here's the basic scheme of how all the stuff connects.
This is just to help you picture how the circuits relate.
Several of the fuses are always hot.
Several others are only hot when the key is run or accessory.
One, usually 3 amps, is for the instrument lights.
If your car came equiped with an electric defrost grid in th erear window, the routing is a little different. For your situation, the difference shouldnt matter.