360 vs 383

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Are we assuming you already have a Big block 727 laying around or does that come out of the 3k?

My dad use to race a coronet 500, said they were the 340 of big blocks.

I'd go with a 360. Weight be the key.
 
aren't the 906 heads the 383's achilles heel? They were from the 440's and were spec'd at 88cc's, but i believe that was an NHRA rating meaning they could be cut to 88 cc's and be NHRA legal.
I think most were 92 - 94 cc's and that dropped the 383's in Road Runners and Superbees compression to lo 8:1 or maybe lower. I think they tried 3 or 4 camshafts before they could even get one to squeal the tires and still had to raise the converter stall.
ln stock form with lo compression they had to spin them to make good power and that meant a converter and 410's but then they ran pretty good.
With new aluminum heads and high compression pistons this is a game changer but i still think the 360 might prevail all things being equal at 360 and 383 cubes, and i think your long out of budget in this post.
 
ir3333 said:
aren't the 906 heads the 383's achilles heel? They were from the 440's and were spec'd at 88cc's, but i believe that was an NHRA rating meaning they could be cut to 88 cc's and be NHRA legal.
I think most were 92 - 94 cc's and that dropped the 383's in Road Runners and Superbees compression to lo 8:1 or maybe lower. I think they tried 3 or 4 camshafts before they could even get one to squeal the tires and still had to raise the converter stall.
ln stock form with lo compression they had to spin them to make good power and that meant a converter and 410's but then they ran pretty good.
With new aluminum heads and high compression pistons this is a game changer but i still think the 360 might prevail all things being equal at 360 and 383 cubes, and i think your long out of budget in this post.
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Last summer I decided to "cc" 4 different BB heads here. I had 2 '452s, a '346 and a '906. The '346 had been milled and came in at 83 ccs. The others were in the 89-90 range.
Ma Mopar fudged the numbers on the compression ratios too. Mine was rated at 8.7 to 1 but my math came up with 8.12 to 1.
 
318willrun said:
For the 3k budget builder to buy and build an engine, which engine moves a '73 Satellite the quickest through the 1/4 mile ???
  • Running 383 2bbls can be bought for 500 or less
  • Running 360 are about priced equally - maybe 100 cheaper on average
Buying everything at fair market value, 2nd hand or new... seems the big block stuff is a tad pricier.
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Cool car - post pictures
 
U didn't mention trans ?
I assume u will be running the 727 and not sure if you own one or not but remember they are specific to each engine family.
 
1Badcolt said:
U didn't mention trans ?
I assume u will be running the 727 and not sure if you own one or not but remember they are specific to each engine family.
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Hey there.
You can spell out the word Y O U for no extra charge here. No additional fees at all.

1 laff.jpg
 
383 all the way. Better heads, forged crank, internal balance, stronger block, dry intake. NHRA numbers always are minimum cc's. You always have to mill heads to reach that number.
 
A 383 roadrunner used to run at our track in '68. It had 4.10 gears, headers and cheater slicks and would dip into the 13's. The 4.10's made the difference.
If you made the same changes to a 68 340 Dart they would flirt with 13 flat and a good one high 12's
i wonder if our junior members know what cheater slicks were?
 
A friend of mine ran a 383, 4 speed 68 or 69 Road Runner that he bought new, It would occasionally dip into the 12's. He had the heads milled, the stock AVS rejetted, and added headers. He tuned and refined that car for years. Not sure what gears he ran, but I'm sure they were steep. He used roller hubs to flat tow it to the track.
I also knew a guy that ran a 68 Dart 340, 4 speed that took it to the track and dipped into the 12's. He was "informed" it could not be stock to run those times. He never bothered to go back, since he bought it new and knew there were no modifications.
 
I'll take the one with the 4.250 bore, Alex. Nuff said.
 
I'm late to this party on this thread, however, regarding weight I weighed my 69 Cuda's iron 340 when I pulled it out, and weighed my new 468 iron block/aluminum water pump housing, aluminum heads, and aluminum intake before it went in the car. The 468 weighed 71 pounds more than the 340. Replaced the .750" torsion bars with 1.03" bars and the car corners as good as ever AFAICT. Sure is faster though! 4.350" bore makes a lot of torque.
 
Col_Steve said:
I'm late to this party on this thread, however, regarding weight I weighed my 69 Cuda's iron 340 when I pulled it out, and weighed my new 468 iron block/aluminum water pump housing, aluminum heads, and aluminum intake before it went in the car. The 468 weighed 71 pounds more than the 340. Replaced the .750" torsion bars with 1.03" bars and the car corners as good as ever AFAICT. Sure is faster though! 4.350" bore makes a lot of torque.
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Even though you added a little weight you removed weight from where it's most troublesome up high.
 
I believe the build platform may dictate the decision. If you are building a performance Plymouth Cricket? I would choose the 360. The big block 383 will present even more build challenges? Other than that? 383.
 
Lol! The stroke favors the torque,...not! To be sure, if You have low squeeze, it's gonna dog....but that goes for both. My 383 was a '66, so I was ahead with closed-chamber heads and 9.2:1 comp., I put 1.74 Exh valves in and used the porting templates from DC. With an old-school Eddy DP4B, a run of the mill Holley 750 VS, 284/.484 DC cam & headers, I was doing 102+mph in a car that weighed in at about 3700#. Budget, re-ring with the original pistons, rods, crank, stock OE valves, green Hemi valve springs, used headers, shim head gaskets. I love SBs in A-Bodies, but 383 over 360 all day long, there's not that much diff in weight in a big car low-deck to LA360. X heads will out-flow B/RB heads, bone stk., but not all, and BUDGET seems to keep getting lost in this thread...price good X-heads lately?
 
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