Starter not engaging

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Brian Bearor

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Installed a starter a few months ago, many starts and worked great.

Now the starter will not engage and just spins.

Check to see if it.was secure to the engine and it was. Didn't come loose.

Pulled it out bench tested and seemed to work like it should. Gear moved out as to engage.

Included a pic to show it is gouged so not engaging.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you

IMG_20210814_135742667_HDR.jpg


IMG_20210814_143904924.jpg
 
I don't know about Chrysler products but some oems starters have shims to position the starter.

Also it might have something to do with being bolted in maybe something is flexing and preventing the starter from throughing out?
 
Chrysler never used shims. Possible interference with dust cover. Dirt in mount or in hole where nose fits, etc Other than that, problems with ring gear or just plain bad starter. "Rebuilts"
 
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There are "Chrysler" shims that move the entire starter back a hair.... might just do it for you.
It look like the starter isn't sliding in enough. Chips off the front teeth of the starter and the front of the flywheel. Thought it wasn't pushing in enough but I am a novice. What do you think?
 
What do you think?

I think maybe toward 67dart273's point, it may be a crappy rebuild...meaning the core they used might just have the mount holes wowed out or some other issue that is not allowing it to engage properly. Do you still have the original one stud, one bolt combo?? This is important because of the shoulder on the stud. Some units even had a sleeve (prolly aftermarket repair) to fix sloppy cases. This means the case could have been drilled previous. Look carefully at the setup for slop. HTH, Lefty71
 
I think maybe toward 67dart273's point, it may be a crappy rebuild...meaning the core they used might just have the mount holes wowed out or some other issue that is not allowing it to engage properly. Do you still have the original one stud, one bolt combo?? This is important because of the shoulder on the stud. Some units even had a sleeve (prolly aftermarket repair) to fix sloppy cases. This means the case could have been drilled previous. Look carefully at the setup for slop. HTH, Lefty71
It is the one bolt one stud combo. I will definitely check it thanks
 
There are "Chrysler" shims that move the entire starter back a hair.... might just do it for you.
I've never heard of "Chrysler shims" and no official procedure for doing so. They are supposed to bolt right up and go. In fact NO starter than I know of that bolts up in this manner uses shims that I'm aware of, only the ones that bolt up to the bottom of the block with vertical bolts like GM

Frankly, I've never understood why GM could not make blocks and starters that fit LOLOL
 
Weak or binding solenoid linkage not throwing the pinion out enough. I'd move on to a RAM Denso starter and not look back. Its night and day in weight and performance, even draws less amps.
autosystempro.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F06%2FGear-reduction-starter-motor-construction.jpg
 
Weak or binding solenoid linkage not throwing the pinion out enough. I'd move on to a RAM Denso starter and not look back. Its night and day in weight and performance, even draws less amps.
View attachment 1715781374
What models - years would I use to search the local pull a part for a Ram Denso starter?
Do you know if the wire connections are the same as a typical Mopar mini starter?
 
Could be the ring gear is just wearing out.
 
96-'98 Van or pickup for "starters".....wide range of applications.
DODGE B1500 1996-1998
DODGE B2500 1996-1998
DODGE B3500 1996-1998
DODGE DAKOTA 1996-1998
DODGE DURANGO 1998
DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP 1996-1998
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 1996-1998
DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP 1996-1998
DODGE RAM 4000 1996-1998
 
96-'98 Van or pickup for "starters".....wide range of applications.
DODGE B1500 1996-1998
DODGE B2500 1996-1998
DODGE B3500 1996-1998
DODGE DAKOTA 1996-1998
DODGE DURANGO 1998
DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP 1996-1998
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 1996-1998
DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP 1996-1998
DODGE RAM 4000 1996-1998
Thanks, I will check it out.
 
Could be the ring gear is just wearing out.
true, I seen them 1/2 eaten away. Would be wise to check that first, then get a Denso starter...
280-0144_SID__ra_p.jpg

even wider range..
DODGE DAKOTA 1999-2009
DODGE DURANGO 1999-2003
DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP 1999-2008
DODGE RAM 1500 VAN 1999-2003
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 1999-2002
DODGE RAM 2500 VAN 1999-2003
DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP 1999-2002
DODGE RAM 3500 VAN 1999-2003
MITSUBISHI RAIDER 2006-2009
 
true, I seen them 1/2 eaten away. Would be wise to check that first, then get a Denso starter...
View attachment 1715781387
even wider range..
DODGE DAKOTA 1999-2009
DODGE DURANGO 1999-2003
DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP 1999-2008
DODGE RAM 1500 VAN 1999-2003
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 1999-2002
DODGE RAM 2500 VAN 1999-2003
DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP 1999-2002
DODGE RAM 3500 VAN 1999-2003
MITSUBISHI RAIDER 2006-2009

I've stopped recommending those after I found that there are two different ones and most parts storea sell the wrong one for our cars. They fit and may work a while and then just spin like the OP's problem, OR they don't even reach the ring gear at all.
 
Weak or binding solenoid linkage not throwing the pinion out enough. I'd move on to a RAM Denso starter and not look back. Its night and day in weight and performance, even draws less amps.
View attachment 1715781374
Many years ago, when you could reassemble a starter and save a buck, I would take the starter apart and clean the pinion gear shaft. It worked. Well, at least for a couple/few yrs. 'till I had to do it over again :)
 
I thought the newer ones had different style connectors, I've always used the earlier 90s versions when I want to replace a classic Mopar starter with a newer style.
Just because that's what I had laying around I have the starter off of my 92 Dakota on my 78 Fury (318)
I do know the starter on my 01 Durango the small terminal doesn't bolt on the starter it clips in.
The oldest I have seen with the smaller starter from the factory, was my 89 diplomat, and it grew to the trans, I had to destroy it with a sledgehammer to get it to give up it's corroded bond when I had to rebuild the trans on it.
 
Overrunning clutch slips under load. Works ok on the bench with no load.
 
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