Guess that noise

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OK, not the end of the world. The good part the rod bearings are soft and took the hit. The crankshaft looks worse than it really is because of the small amount of bearing material that transferred to it. The bearing material on the crankshaft can be polished off and new rod and main bearings installed, also needed new oil pump too. A creative mind can actually polish that crank in the block without pulling heads or pistons, takes some doing but can be done. Takes some finger work, and some high density foam plugs to keep debris out of the oil galleries.

First order of business you want to see how far the damage has gone. Bottom half of the Main Bearings are the first to start to go in a low oil pressure oil situation.

Want to look into the cam bearing edges with a light to see if they ran dry peeling the edge of the bearing out like a banana peel, most suspect would be the front cam bearing as it is farthest away from the oil pump.

Check other rod bearings to see if it is an isolated rod bearing problem.

Can pull the cover on the oil pump to see if there is scoring in there from low oil supply situation.

But yes, want to determine why it failed then move on to a solution.

Good Luck
 
brian6pac said:
That just sucks, it does look like a bent rod. Ever been hydro locked ?
Click to expand...

I had a rod bearing issue when it was first assembled and #3 and #8 rod caps were somehow swapped. Only took a couple hundred miles to wipe them out.

now I’m not sure what caused it this time.

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038F1DD4-3AD8-429F-86E4-86415E7D518D.jpeg
 
OK that is definitely an oil supply issue there on the main bearings you have pictured.

Cut your oil filter open and see what is in it. It could just be plugged. Check the paper element with a magnet to see if you can pick up steel debris.

What kind of oil pressure was the engine running?

If all the main bearings look like that, you can bet all the rod bearings are going to be scored too.

Oil pump picks up oil from pan then filters it, then on to lubricate the rest of the engine.

Looks like you did a major rebuild to the 360, were all oil gally oil plugs reinstalled after the block was hot tanked?

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Check to see the driver's lifter bank rear oil
Plug is installed too. Can look in through the distributor hole to see if it is. Large plug on the left side of the cam from the rear gains access to it too.
 
Did you clean all the oil galley's out when it came back from the machine shop.

A couple years ago I did a 6 cyl for a friend, when I got it back they said it was ready to assemble.

IMG_3804.JPG


IMG_3805.JPG


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How close is your oil pick up from the bottom of the pan ?

If it's to close it will restrict what can be picked up or plug it off completely with that style pick up.
 
brian6pac said:
How close is your oil pick up from the bottom of the pan ?

If it's to close it will restrict what can be picked up or plug it off completely with that style pick up.
Click to expand...

Yes, ^^^^^ maybe go back to the stock style pickup tube.
 
Dropped it off with the pros this morning. I'll let everyone know what they find. probably won't be anytime soon.
 
Dropped off the engine a while back and without even taking it apart we concluded that the crankshaft is the problem. Whether it was cracked or just balanced incorrectly it has to go. I've had it apart roughly 3-8 times with hamsauced bearings and it's a sour subject that I'd just like to put behind me.

I had put together a barn find 360 engine for fun to drive the car until the snow flies but I hurt it as well (blew a head gasket and lost compression on #5)

Option 1
Use crank from barn find 360 and use my old stock rods/405cp pistons. Dingle ball hone with new rings.

Option 2
Buy scat internally balanced crank. Send scat I beam rods/H116 pistons off to get internally balanced. New Balancer needed.

Option 3
Buy Internally balanced 408/416 (have a standard bore 340 block) scat rotating assembly.
 
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My opinion
As to option 3
The 408, is sortof a waste on the street, you can't even floor it until Third gear without tirespin. Well, I guess you could run 2-series gears.....

Option 2
looks like you want to pay for balancing twice...?

Option 1
looks good, but if it was mine, I'd like to check out the block real careful like, and make sure that is was Not a contributing factor to the death of your crank
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
My recipe, for a streeter, which I guarantee will tickle your pickle, is as follows;
>360 base,
> looser than the KB spec, skirt clearance;
> larger than the KB spec top-gap.
>Alloy heads, 180psi CCP, tight-Q chambers
>for an automatic; a fast-rate hydro of 223/230/110 with a 2800TC, and 3.23s
> for a stick: a fast rate next bigger cam but on a 108LSA, any gears but likes a starter of 10/1
> at 180psi, she won't need any cam advance so run her at split overlap +/- 1 degree/ maybe 2.
>HV pump and o/s pick-up in an extra capacity pan, With a dropped-tray, and run at least 5.5 qts;
>all the usual bolt-ons.
>Make dead sure the oiling system plugs and separators are in, do the oiling mods except for the street you may skip the valley cross-over, Make sure the oil leaves the top-end in a timely fashion.
>My engine has Not been fussy as to oil type or viscosity, Nor as to fuel. It has run 87E10 since 1999, and any brand 10W30 with a half a can of Zinc that I buy at the local GM dealer. I run her at 207*F, exactly, lol.
>If you have ever lost one of the front two rods on the driver's side, you can bet the oil pump sucked air, so... you need more oil above the oil pick-up, a better hood, a faster drain-back, the valley cross-over, or a rev-limiter, lol.

>I feel for you Skep;
Crap like that is why I freshened my engine at least five winters in a row, and at least three times I found catastrophe just waiting to happen. Reuseable gaskets made it a lil more bearable. In those days she was my DD; so I couldn't afford to be down any longer than the weekend. So while the 367 came out, a 318 went straight back in for the winter.
Happy HotRodding

Btw;
That 223@050 combo went 106@12.9;
on 245/60-14 street tires, with 3.55s, @3650 pounds;
shifting at 7200 (regular A833),
with a 60 ft somewhere in the 2.4s (2.42 I think; in any case slow!)
 
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skep419 said:
Dropped off the engine a while back and without even taking it apart we concluded that the crankshaft is the problem. Whether it was cracked or just balanced incorrectly it has to go. I've had it apart roughly 3-8 times with hamsauced bearings and it's a sour subject that I'd just like to put behind me.

I had put together a barn find 360 engine for fun to drive the car until the snow flies but I hurt it as well (blew a head gasket and lost compression on #5)

Option 1
Use crank from barn find 360 and use my old stock rods/405cp pistons. Dingle ball hone with new rings.

Option 2
Buy scat internally balanced crank. Send scat I beam rods/H116 pistons off to get internally balanced. New Balancer needed.

Option 3
Buy Internally balanced 408/416 (have a standard bore 340 block) scat rotating assembly.
Click to expand...
416 With Trickflow CNC heads
 
AJ/FormS said:
My opinion
As to option 3
The 408, is sortof a waste on the street, you can't even floor it until Third gear without tirespin. Well, I guess you could run 2-series gears.....

Option 2
looks like you want to pay for balancing twice...?

Option 1
looks good, but if it was mine, I'd like to check out the block real careful like, and make sure that is was Not a contributing factor to the death of your crank
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
My recipe, for a streeter, which I guarantee will tickle your pickle, is as follows;
>360 base,
> looser than the KB spec, skirt clearance;
> larger than the KB spec top-gap.
>Alloy heads, 180psi CCP, tight-Q chambers
>for an automatic; a fast-rate hydro of 223/230/110 with a 2800TC, and 3.23s
> for a stick: a fast rate next bigger cam but on a 108LSA, any gears but likes a starter of 10/1
> at 180psi, she won't need any cam advance so run her at split overlap +/- 1 degree/ maybe 2.
>HV pump and o/s pick-up in an extra capacity pan, With a dropped-tray, and run at least 5.5 qts;
>all the usual bolt-ons.
>Make dead sure the oiling system plugs and separators are in, do the oiling mods except for the street you may skip the valley cross-over, Make sure the oil leaves the top-end in a timely fashion.
>My engine has Not been fussy as to oil type or viscosity, Nor as to fuel. It has run 87E10 since 1999, and any brand 10W30 with a half a can of Zinc that I buy at the local GM dealer. I run her at 207*F, exactly, lol.
>If you have ever lost one of the front two rods on the driver's side, you can bet the oil pump sucked air, so... you need more oil above the oil pick-up, a better hood, a faster drain-back, the valley cross-over, or a rev-limiter, lol.

>I feel for you Skep;
Crap like that is why I freshened my engine at least five winters in a row, and at least three times I found catastrophe just waiting to happen. Reuseable gaskets made it a lil more bearable. In those days she was my DD; so I couldn't afford to be down any longer than the weekend. So while the 367 came out, a 318 went straight back in for the winter.
Happy HotRodding

Btw;
That 223@050 combo went 106@12.9;
on 245/60-14 street tires, with 3.55s, @3650 pounds;
shifting at 7200 (regular A833),
with a 60 ft somewhere in the 2.4s (2.42 I think; in any case slow!)
Click to expand...

The reason for the stroker is I would like to run 3.23 gears. Also spending money to not gain anything kinda sucks.

I had the stock crank externally balanced for the lighter scat rods and h116 pistons. I could use the other stock crank and have it externally balanced again but I think I'm done with externally balanced anything unless the factory did it. (can't say that it was done incorrectly and I don't plan on paying to find out)

That is why I brought up the internally balanced scat crank. I'm under the assumption that it is built differently and doesn't need a bunch of expensive Mallory to internally balance it. (I'd still have to have it balanced for my rods and pistons but again paying a lot of money to not gain anything)

I spent a ton of money over the last couple years on an engine that wasn't anything fancy. It hits different breaking/wrecking parts that are suppose to be good vs throwing something together for little to nothing. It seems like I've spent a couple thousand on bearings, gaskets, and oil the last couple years. (which would be fine if it was on junkyard engines that costed little to nothing)

I've found out that I'd rather take a chance making parts work that aren't suppose to work over buying parts that are suppose to work and having them not. I had a blast throwing the engine together I got out of the barn.

I also like being able to run 87 octane because I like to be able to drive my car often no matter what the gas station sells.

I'm done with the 3.91 gears not only because of the vibration that I can't seam to fix but I like being able to cruise below 3000rpm and I should be able to make enough low end power to make them work.

sorry for the rant
 
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brian6pac said:
That just sucks, it does look like a bent rod. Ever been hydro locked ?
Click to expand...

Never been hydro locked not sure how I would have bent a rod?

brian6pac said:
Did you clean all the oil galley's out when it came back from the machine shop.
Click to expand...

I did not clean the oil galley's (the machine shop had assembled the short block this last time)

brian6pac said:
How close is your oil pick up from the bottom of the pan ?
If it's to close it will restrict what can be picked up or plug it off completely with that style pick up.
Click to expand...

I used tape and my kids play-doh. If i remember it was close to 3/8 of an inch
 
I isolated a rod knock once by pulling the spark plug wire .the noise will stop or get quieter when there is no combustion pressure driving the piston.
 
I had the engine at the shop for a few months. The block checked out. The plan was to use a different stock crank, externally balance and put it back together.
I started to overthink the plan the closer hot rod season approached. Since nothing had been done with the rotating assembly I went ahead with option 1.
Considering this was the first engine I put together from start to finish by myself I’d say it went well. It started and ran for half the day hahahah
Although it was probably my driving that caused the bearing failure (haven’t torn it down yet) I have no faith in this block.

Currently searching for magnum 5.9’s.

https://youtube.com/shorts/zqrXeTIE2-Q?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/tBKlMooEPYo?feature=share
 
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Well crap. That's gotta be pretty frustrating not being able to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Hope you get it figured out.
 
Kinda related. I just bought a Kevco pan, pick up and bolts for my 1998 5.9 Magnum based 408 stroker. Rob has told me the finer points of the pan gasket installation. Any other tips from my FABO Family?
 
Ironracer said:
Ouch... Sorry Man, darn it!
Click to expand...
Coming your way soon, Brother. Our old farmhouse is on the market. My bride of 35 years wants to get one last summer out here. We're moving this fall, no matter what the economy is doing. A straight swap for our home for a home in central Florida. Better VA benifits, too.
 
70dart340 said:
Coming your way soon, Brother. Our old farmhouse is on the market. My bride of 35 years wants to get one last summer out here. We're moving this fall, no matter what the economy is doing. A straight swap for our home for a home in central Florida. Better VA benifits, too.
Click to expand...
Man, We Would Love to Have Y'all here in Sunny Florida!!!!!!! Come on Down!
 
Be careful what you wish for, Brother. I was born in what was then known as Mound Park Hospital. We're going to have to BBQ, Sir.
 
I can’t name that noise in 1 hundred notes.
Cell phone audio is hideous!
You definitely have some bearing issues.
Start over, check, measure and do it right.
 
Spun #1
221321F8-A151-4D0B-86EC-5104C457E304.jpeg
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I'm done "doing it right" It still breaks and just ends up costing more.
I don't drink or smoke, do drugs, gamble,etc. I enjoy throwing junk together (I do wish it lasted more than 24 hours but **** happens :lol:)

Hopefully this bone stock magnum 5.9 lasts the summer.
If I can find another one I'll throw some nitrous at this one in the fall hahaha.
 
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skep419 said:
Spun #1
View attachment 1715928873 View attachment 1715928874 View attachment 1715928875

I'm done "doing it right" It still breaks and just ends up costing more.
I don't drink or smoke, do drugs, gamble,etc. I enjoy throwing junk together (I do wish it lasted more than 24 hours but **** happens :lol:)

Hopefully this bone stock magnum 5.9 lasts the summer.
If I can find another one I'll throw some nitrous at this one in the fall hahaha.
Click to expand...
But the question is - Why did the rod bearing spin?
 
512Stroker said:
But the question is - Why did the rod bearing spin?
Click to expand...
It's the first time using a high volume pump. I'm guessing I sucked the stock pan dry while passing a minivan in high gear. Tach was climbing past 5500 before letting off and the knock started immediately after.
 
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