65 Valiant Ball and Trunnion Question

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Jack Curran

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Hi all,

I've been having a persistent vibration around 40mph from my Valiant, while I was spinning the car up on the hoist, it sounded like a lot of vibration was coming from the Ball & Trunnion area.

I was able to slightly rotate the trunnion (1/8th inch slop?) while holding the driveshaft in place. Is this normal? I'm thinking that could be contributing to the vibration I am feeling.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks for your time
 
Not normal. It's worn.
Thought so, thanks for giving me the conformation.
I 'freshened up' the ball and trunnion a year ago while replacing the rubber boot, all I did was replace the needle bearings, balls and the caps that go over them so I'm a little puzzled. The vibration was still present back then but less pronounced, so I'm guessing the actual trunnion housing itself where the balls ride in is worn... I should be back at the shop tomorrow and I'll let the forum know what I find.

Thanks again for the help. Cheers
 
Thought so, thanks for giving me the conformation.
I 'freshened up' the ball and trunnion a year ago while replacing the rubber boot, all I did was replace the needle bearings, balls and the caps that go over them so I'm a little puzzled. The vibration was still present back then but less pronounced, so I'm guessing the actual trunnion housing itself where the balls ride in is worn... I should be back at the shop tomorrow and I'll let the forum know what I find.

Thanks again for the help. Cheers

I bet that's it. They normally don't wear at all unless the grease dries up, which can happen or the boot tears and the grease leaks out and they run dry. That will ruin a housing in short order........and all the rest of it.
 
The rebuild kits are tough to find, but these guys still list them:
"Detroit"-style ball & trunion repair kit for the front and cross-type universal joint for the rear of all 1960-65 Plymouth Valiant; all 1964-65 Barracuda; all 1961-62 Dodge Lancer and all 1963-65 Dodge Dart (moparmall.com)
The trouble is that the housing becomes worn after all these years, and new ones are unobtanium. The workaround is to have a plate made to fit between the transmission flange and the trunion housing, spacing the housing back so the balls ride in an unworn (or at least less worn) section of the housing. Doesn't take much, maybe 3/16 give or take?
If it's too far gone, probably your only other option would be a driveshaft conversion, as outlined here:
Early Valiant Barracuda Club - ball and trunion U-joint conversion (earlycuda.org)
 
The rebuild kits are tough to find, but these guys still list them:
"Detroit"-style ball & trunion repair kit for the front and cross-type universal joint for the rear of all 1960-65 Plymouth Valiant; all 1964-65 Barracuda; all 1961-62 Dodge Lancer and all 1963-65 Dodge Dart (moparmall.com)
The trouble is that the housing becomes worn after all these years, and new ones are unobtanium. The workaround is to have a plate made to fit between the transmission flange and the trunion housing, spacing the housing back so the balls ride in an unworn (or at least less worn) section of the housing. Doesn't take much, maybe 3/16 give or take?
If it's too far gone, probably your only other option would be a driveshaft conversion, as outlined here:
Early Valiant Barracuda Club - ball and trunion U-joint conversion (earlycuda.org)

Thanks for all the info. The rebuild kit you listed is what I used for my ball and trunnion, it fit well. It's too bad they don't sell the actual housings. Thanks for the clever workaround idea, I never would've thought of that. Might be an option depending on how worn the housing is.

My friend just did the U-joint conversion you posted for his 61 Belvedere but it cost him around 800$. Trying to see if I can make do with the ball and trunnion for now.

I'm headed to the Mopar parts yard in Ontario this week so I'll see if I can find a NOS or a used trunnion that's in good shape over there.

Cheers
 
Thanks for all the info. The rebuild kit you listed is what I used for my ball and trunnion, it fit well. It's too bad they don't sell the actual housings. Thanks for the clever workaround idea, I never would've thought of that. Might be an option depending on how worn the housing is.

My friend just did the U-joint conversion you posted for his 61 Belvedere but it cost him around 800$. Trying to see if I can make do with the ball and trunnion for now.

I'm headed to the Mopar parts yard in Ontario this week so I'll see if I can find a NOS or a used trunnion that's in good shape over there.

Cheers
Those conversion driveshafts are the same type that is commonly used in 4x4s from the transfer case to the front axle- a little shopping around at offroad shops might get you a better deal than your friend got?
 
I had the same problem with my 61 Dart years ago. Housing had worn; could not find a new one here. I spaced the housing back 3/8" using spacers on the studs so that the balls ran in a new spot. Fixed it. Probably not ideal but it worked.
 
Hi all, well the trunnion is definitely worn! I took it apart and it looks like a piece of the cap broke off. Looks like the grease inside dried up and it got very hot. I was careful to only use a small amount of grease when rebuilding the shaft not to throw off the balance, I believe Chrysler recommended an ounce of grease at the most. I just use conventional wheel bearing grease, was this incorrect? The play isn't too bad but in one spot the trunnion really has a lot of slop. I can feel on the inside of the trunnion a ball shaped spot that wore away. See pics for more info, you can see a piece of the ball cap also broke off.

Ball and Trunnion Image 1.jpg


Ball and Trunnion Image 2.jpg
 
I'm going to try my rebuild kit and see if spacing the driveshaft back will help at all tonight as a last ditch before paying for a new driveshaft. Here is a video of the slop I'm talking about if anyone is curious:


Thanks again for the help everyone,

Cheers
 
I'm going to try my rebuild kit and see if spacing the driveshaft back will help at all tonight as a last ditch before paying for a new driveshaft. Here is a video of the slop I'm talking about if anyone is curious:


Thanks again for the help everyone,

Cheers


I don't know why the hell I'm sittin hear watchin all this without tellin you.....I have a complete drive shaft including the trunnion. lol
 
Hi again everyone,
I spaced the trunnion back 3/8" at the flange on the output shaft and WOW what a world of difference. Car lost all of the vibrations it had before. Over the winter I'm going to order a new trunnion and replace it. I really appreciate all the help from the forum. Thanks guys!
 
Hi again everyone,
I spaced the trunnion back 3/8" at the flange on the output shaft and WOW what a world of difference. Car lost all of the vibrations it had before. Over the winter I'm going to order a new trunnion and replace it. I really appreciate all the help from the forum. Thanks guys!
When you replace it make sure the pin that you press out of the shaft is perfectly centered within a mil or two when you put it back together Or your vibration will come back. Also that pin comes out really hard you’re gonna have to take it someplace that has a good sturdy press. I had my machine shop guy do it since he’s used to working with precision measurement tools
 
When you replace it make sure the pin that you press out of the shaft is perfectly centered within a mil or two when you put it back together Or your vibration will come back. Also that pin comes out really hard you’re gonna have to take it someplace that has a good sturdy press. I had my machine shop guy do it since he’s used to working with precision measurement tools

Thanks for the tip, I'll bring it to my buddies machine shop and use his press. Cheers.
 
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