Today, dollar for dollar, is the 318 faster than the 340 ???

would you agree ?

  • yep, the 318 wins if buying and building for under 3k

    Votes: 48 41.7%

  • Nope, the 340 always has and always will beat the 318

    Votes: 57 49.6%

  • Actually, never thought about it like this... Good Point !

    Votes: 10 8.7%
  • Total voters
    115
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448Scamp said:
One of these days I’ll post the current cost of the minimum machine work I say is required to do an actual rebuild of any V8. Doesn’t matter the brand or size, that cost is always the same. Then you can do the math. Who says I’m not happy? I enjoy watching you post up nonsense and then defending it. It’s also pleasurable to watch your cronies jump to your defense without actually thinking for themselves.
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No time like the present !!! IF an engine performs it's intended purpose, it's a good engine regardless if you put your stamped approval on it or not !!!

Wait. WAIT....... something just dawned on me..... for real. Do you own a machine shop?? Honest question. I'm seeing a pattern here... many folks that own machine shops cannot stand low dollar builds by others because it means less traffic through their doors.
 
justinp61 said:
:lol: No politician here.

I know todays world is different but I'm old school, if it walks like a duck, looks like a duck and quacks like a duck. It's a duck. Of course today it could identify as a giraffe. :D
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Ummmm.... I thought old school was the whole truth, nothing but the truth.... You seem to skip past 3/4 of a story to post what fits a narrative. If you are not a politician, do you work for CNN ??? LOL
 
318willrun said:
Ummmm.... I thought old school was the whole truth, nothing but the truth.... You seem to skip past 3/4 of a story to post what fits a narrative. If you are not a politician, do you work for CNN ??? LOL
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Like I stated before, I agree to disagree.
 
448Scamp said:
A mental masturbation exercise with unrealistic rules designed to make you look like a hero.
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100%

I will say this though. Sure, you can build a sub-$3000 318. Guess what, if you have a 340 already or do like I did and search and search, looked on Moparts, looked on the nationwide Craigslist search engine, looked here, you can find a 340 block.
It might need a sleeve or be at its max bore after machining. But you can find them.
Point is, do what makes sense to you and if you have an LA build it. Who gives a **** what the bore size is. A better question to ponder is 3.31” stroke or a 3.58” stroke if you are on a tight budget.

Mental Masturbation! LOL!
 
448Scamp said:
One of these days I’ll post the current cost of the minimum machine work I say is required to do an actual rebuild of any V8. Doesn’t matter the brand or size, that cost is always the same. Then you can do the math. Who says I’m not happy? I enjoy watching you post up nonsense and then defending it. It’s also pleasurable to watch your cronies jump to your defense without actually thinking for themselves.
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''one of these days'', lol :rofl:
 
go-fish said:
100%

I will say this though. Sure, you can build a sub-$3000 318. Guess what, if you have a 340 already or do like I did and search and search, looked on Moparts, looked on the nationwide Craigslist search engine, looked here, you can find a 340 block.
It might need a sleeve or be at its max bore after machining. But you can find them.
Point is, do what makes sense to you and if you have an LA build it. Who gives a **** what the bore size is. A better question to ponder is 3.31” stroke or a 3.58” stroke if you are on a tight budget.

Mental Masturbation! LOL!
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why go to all the trouble searching when a 360 is cheaper, unless it's 340 or nothing?
 
mygasser said:
why go to all the trouble searching when a 360 is cheaper, unless it's 340 or nothing?
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Ummmmm..... go fish and 448scamp are getting excited over something different than cars.... The two of them found a common ground if you read their post. I've gotta let that go, I'm not going anywhere near what has them excited. I try to help with car issues but I ain't helping with the issue that seems to have surfaced. Closed the door on that book.
 
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mygasser said:
why go to all the trouble searching when a 360 is cheaper, unless it's 340 or nothing?
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Do you know how many people brought that up in this thread only to be told by the OP that “this topic is about 318 vs. 340”? LOL

The mental masturbator has set a clearly (narrow) defined set of parameters to make himself ( & 318’s) look like a boss.

First, all 340’s cost $800 for a bare block. Second, all running 318’s are free. Thirdly, we’ll leave 360’s out of this.

318WR has one foot in fantasy land and his mind fixated on building the cheapest 318 possible. All the while poopooing on 340 engines.

I used to like the guy, watched the YT channel. Over the last 57 pages I have now come to think he’s a tool with a dopamine addiction.

And BTW, it has never been 340 or nothing with me. I have a 408”, 328”, and soon a 422”. I looked, and it wasn’t that hard, and found a 340 block in TX after about 2 days of internet hunting.
 
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318willrun said:
Ummmmm..... go fish and 448scamp are getting excited over something different than cars....
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Deflect, deflect.
Stay on topic dopamine addict. Maybe you can get this thread to go to 1000. Someday, in a perfect world of your own imagination, guys will be tossing their 340’s for sub-$3000 318’s. I’ll help.


Also, Starting to look at other people prior posts? :elmer:
Honestly, I don’t know what your looking for.:rolleyes:
 
go-fish said:
Do you know how many people brought that up in this thread only to be told by the OP that “this topic is about 318 vs. 340”? LOL

The mental masturbator has set a clearly (narrow) defined set of parameters to make himself ( & 318’s) look like a boss.

First, all 340’s cost $800 for a bare block. Second, all running 318’s are free. Thirdly, we’ll leave 360’s out of this.

318WR has one foot in fantasy land and his mind fixated on building the cheapest 318 possible. All the while poopooing on 340 engines.

I used to like the guy, watched the YT channel. Over the last 57 pages I have now come to think he’s a tool with a dopamine addiction.

And BTW, it has never been 340 or nothing with me. I have a 408”, 328”, and soon a 422”. I looked, and it wasn’t that hard, and found a 340 block in TX after about 2 days of internet hunting.
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why the name calling?
i only mentioned the 360 as you said you'd searched to find a 340, and then it needed a sleeve.
also 318wr has not poopooed 340's at all in this whole thread, so don't put words in his mouth to twist the thread.
yeah, i read you've got several different motors. some here just won't seem to accept the viability of any la except the 340 which is weird, or maybe it's just they won't have anyone show disrespect for the holy 340. honestly that's how some are coming across here in this thread. use what you got if it works and just needs simple hop ups.
 
318willrun said:
No time like the present !!! IF an engine performs it's intended purpose, it's a good engine regardless if you put your stamped approval on it or not !!!

Wait. WAIT....... something just dawned on me..... for real. Do you own a machine shop?? Honest question. I'm seeing a pattern here... many folks that own machine shops cannot stand low dollar builds by others because it means less traffic through their doors.
Click to expand...


I do not own a machine shop, nor am I am engine builder. I’ve been around this hobby since 1995 and I’ve done a ton of different things. I can tell you what local shop costs are though, and it eats into your 3k budget pretty hard. I don’t do a core rebuild without grinding the crank. I won’t do it. I want straight, round bearing surfaces. I won’t build an engine that hasn’t had the decks cleaned up at a minimum and I’d prefer they are square decked. There is no reason to skimp there. Most every core I’ve ever seen needs to be bored. The day has long past of the berry hone and run it. The shop I use has a new hone and they use a profilometer on every block so they know what they have. Ring seal matters. I almost never tell anyone to rebuild OE rods. It’s a waste of money. Even if you buy the best bolt ARP offers, it’s still a 3/8 bolt and nut. A decent aftermarket rod comes with a better design and a 7/16 capscrew. So you either rebuild OE rods and end up with something that is still OE or you spend a few more dollars and get a decent rod. A balance job is a must. That’s just a must. The factory balance is bad. Real bad. And you have to set the rod and main clearances. You do that with a line hone and honing the rods. Otherwise you just try and shuffle bearings and spend way too much time fiddling while Rome is burning. That is the minimum required to rebuild a core. We haven’t even bought a decent piston and I don’t use KB pistons. Or a cam. Not some cheap summit cam. But a cam that matches the converter, induction, gearing and intended usage. Don’t forget rings. Even the obsolete moly ring set is pushing 200 dollars for a good set. Add in rod and main bearings. A timing set. Lifters too. Do you see the budget is long past dead? Yeah, you can duct tape and bailing wore something together, but as I’ve said before that is penny wise and pound foolish.
 
mygasser said:
why the name calling?
i only mentioned the 360 as you said you'd searched to find a 340, and then it needed a sleeve.
also 318wr has not poopooed 340's at all in this whole thread, so don't put words in his mouth to twist the thread.
yeah, i read you've got several different motors. some here just won't seem to accept the viability of any la except the 340 which is weird, or maybe it's just they won't have anyone show disrespect for the holy 340. honestly that's how some are coming across here in this thread. use what you got if it works and just needs simple hop ups.
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I'm sorry for the name calling. I should have been more eloquent as to not have to resort to namecalling but from what I have read in this thread it does seem like 318WR gets a weird joy from the debate and elation that it has gone on for so many pages. He sets unrealistic parameters to get results he wants. Doesn't take into account that everyone is starting out with different parts and parts availability. Overvalues 340 blocks. Ignores resale value (it's a factor on investment). Overvalues the cheapness of 318 engines (Still paying a couple hundred for a running engine around here). Once the block is secured every part, aside from pistons, for the engines is comparable in price and/or compatible. In some posts 318WR is acting like the 318 is the best deal going and wanting to keep 360's out of the debate. Then he admits that if a deal on a 340 comes along it's better. Then he's extolling his cheap 360 build. Can't nail him down.

What you and I, at least, can agree on is run what you got or run what is available without much hassle.

I feel that an LA is an LA, kinda. The debate for me is what stroke? What main journal size? The 340 vs. 318 thing, to me, is irrelevant. The difference is bore size and on the list of factors bore size is not the top concern. 340/318 is just about the same damn engine (3.31" stroke).

Now, LA 360 3.58" stroke vs. a 3.31" stroke LA? That's the debate to have.
 
mygasser said:
why the name calling?
i only mentioned the 360 as you said you'd searched to find a 340, and then it needed a sleeve.
also 318wr has not poopooed 340's at all in this whole thread, so don't put words in his mouth to twist the thread.
yeah, i read you've got several different motors. some here just won't seem to accept the viability of any la except the 340 which is weird, or maybe it's just they won't have anyone show disrespect for the holy 340. honestly that's how some are coming across here in this thread. use what you got if it works and just needs simple hop ups.
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When folks show spite, the fun is gone, name calling starts, and the purpose of the hobby is lost. I closed the door on both them. :) Nothing but enjoyment form the hobby from me... :)
 
All the arguin in the world won't settle it. Drag strip this chit and be done with it.
 
go-fish said:
What you and I, at least, can agree on is run what you got or run what is available without much hassle.

I feel that an LA is an LA, kinda. The debate for me is what stroke? What main journal size? The 340 vs. 318 thing, to me, is irrelevant. The difference is bore size and on the list of factors bore size is not the top concern. 340/318 is just about the same damn engine (3.31" stroke).

Now, LA 360 3.58" stroke vs. a 3.31" stroke LA? That's the debate to have.
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yep i'm with you there.
 
Sometimes some members need to be awarded the "BURNT OUT LIGHTBULB" trophy for being sooo bright.

Trolling other members with rude comments comes to mind.

Lightspeed.jpg
 
Here are the numbers I said I’d get to. These are for a 460 Ford that a friend had machined and he picked it up in July so the numbers are current.

Block Prep 200
Bore and Hone 240
Torque plate 50
Line Hone 190
Zero Deck 200
Turn Crank 230
Resize Rods 192
Float The Small Ends 120
Install and stretch ARP rod bolts 30
Balance 230
ARP Bolts 94

Block Prep included tank and mag, cam bearing install.
Apparently the OE Ford rods had a press fit rod and he wanted to float the rods.
The balance job was for a clutch. I assume the balance job would be a bit less for a converter.
I included the cost of the rod bolts because that’s part of it. Had he purchased new rods like I suggested he wouldn’t have needed the bolts. But that’s part of the cost in rebuilding an OE rod. Bad money spent if you ask me.
The total cost for just that is 1776 dollars. He lives in a state with sales tax, so add in another 8%. Another 142 dollars.
Other than rod bolts, he didn’t buy a part out of that money. No bearings, oil pump, timing set, pistons, rings, cam and lifters, pushrods, roller rockers because he isn’t that cheap or the new fuel pump.
With those prices, which seem to me to be about what is normal if the shop isn’t working for peanuts you are eating up two thirds of your 3k budget before you buy anything other than those rod bolts. I forgot a gasket set.
Add in an ATI or some other new damper because the factory stuff is 40-50 years old and you really start bashing the budget.
I’m sure the very “frugal” around here will say they can cut out a bunch of money everywhere. You probably can. But what do you have when have when you are done? A compromised build. Penny wise. Pound foolish.
 
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