what oil

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Amsoil hotrod oil or what they recommend, just call the tech line. Best oil made bar none.
 
I run lucas classic car oil has zinc already in it no additional additives needed.

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Kendal oil, Brad Penn, and now called Penn Grade user for well over 40 years. Same oil different name. Zero complaints out of me.
 
What ever cheap full synthetic 10W-30 oil you desire and a little bottle of zinc additive. I don't even remember the brand in my 340 right now, it was like 30 bucks on sale. Before that I ran VR1... don't notice a difference in how it runs and I daily drive my car.

Or.. spend 60+ dollars on an oil change. :thumbsup:

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What are the engine specs.?
The '73 engines didn't have roller cams in them from the factory.
If it's been converted to one, then a good synthetic oil like Amsoil Z-Rod is what I would recommend.
 
After reading through here and based upon local availability, decided to go with Valvoline VR-1 and a WIX filter. Local NAPA store was able to hook me up.

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WV64Signet said:
After reading through here and based upon local availability, decided to go with Valvoline VR-1 and a WIX filter. Local NAPA store was able to hook me up.

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Off topic, but why is your alternator bracket upside down ?
And while I'm at it, you might want to lose the glass fuel filter, and air cleaner.Both have been known to catch on fire.

Back to the regularly scheduled programming.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Off topic, but why is your alternator bracket upside down ?
Click to expand...

Well, honesty I'm not sure @Johnny Dart . Just bought the car and I'm a Mopar rookie so feedback is most welcome... took me a while to figure out why the PCV Valve was forward on a 64... figured out that the engine is actually an 81... :lol: but it's had a bunch of work done on it.

Yes. .... I've got a Holley air cleaner on order after reading @halifaxhops and others comment.

I'm a sponge... love the site and all the knowledge here.

:thumbsup:
 
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Warren brand or store brand carried @ Dollar General, Family Dollar, or any store brand from Autozone, Advance Auto, Oreilys, and Walmart Supertech brand. Save money! Then learn to control the insuring mental torment, the anguish, constant fretting, the scorn and ridicule by others for using cheap oil.....
OR,
buy the most expensive heavily marketed and hyped oil out there with all the good stuff in it, the more the better, enjoy the calming placebo effect, gain the approval of your peers, rest easy knowing you’re using the best oils available. Oil scmoil:lol:
 
Johnny Dart said:
Off topic, but why is your alternator bracket upside down ?
And while I'm at it, you might want to lose the glass fuel filter, and air cleaner.Both have been known to catch on fire.

Back to the regularly scheduled programming.
Click to expand...

Done...

See, he can be taught. :thumbsup:

Working on the fuel filter

Thanks guys

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WV64Signet said:
Done...

See, he can be taught. :thumbsup:

Working on the fuel filter

Thanks guys

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Another " constructive criticism" if l may.
You are almost out of adjustment on alternator belt. You do not have to do this today, but may want to consider getting a belt that is about 1/12" - 2" shorter.
Start adjustment close to motor as possible.
New belts DO stretch. A belt will get longer. Never shorter. ( Unless it brakes. Duh)
It will not " flex" / vibrate as much. Also a little less likely to "squeal".
Wipe down pulley grooves with brake clean or lacquer thinner to remove residue.
I usually even take a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to slightly " roughen up" the grooves before installing new belt.

Been doing this method for years on dirt and asphalt race cars. Never had a belt issue since started doing it.
No reason why 5 minutes of extra work that it won't work on a street car as well.
And yes, l do it in my street cars.

You are learning. That is a good thing. Keep it up.
 
oldmodlover said:
Another " constructive criticism" if l may.
You are almost out of adjustment on alternator belt. You do not have to do this today, but may want to consider getting a belt that is about 1/12" - 2" shorter.
Start adjustment close to motor as possible.
New belts DO stretch. A belt will get longer. Never shorter. ( Unless it brakes. Duh)
It will not " flex" / vibrate as much. Also a little less likely to "squeal".
Wipe down pulley grooves with brake clean or lacquer thinner to remove residue.
I usually even take a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to slightly " roughen up" the grooves before installing new belt.

Been doing this method for years on dirt and asphalt race cars. Never had a belt issue since started doing it.
No reason why 5 minutes of extra work that it won't work on a street car as well.
And yes, l do it in my street cars.

You are learning. That is a good thing. Keep it up.
Click to expand...

Thanks much... Loving the feedback and the tricks of the trade.

@Johnny Dart PM'd me earlier on the alternator adjustment and belt length to achieve greater efficiency... it's on the list with the fuel filter. :thumbsup:
 
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