When you have a crank turned down say 0.010/0.010 and order a set of main bearings then using some 5W30 to oil the bearings and torque the main caps down you should be able to grab the 1 1/4 inch bolt and turn the crank. How easy it spins will tell you if you really need to have the Main web align honed.
When they align hone they can only go so far and if it will not clean up then a align bore will be needed. But an align bore and hone will mess up your timing chain spec as they take some metal off the block and the main caps and then bore them out to standard diameter. This little bit raises the crank up in the block 1/2 the over bore and the timing chain will be loose. NOT my choice of doing an engine and ONLY to be done on a 'Numbers Matching' block that is worth only what the car is worth with it.
My 1978 LRT has a warranty replacement block due to a chronic rear main leak. It has a huge W in the vin number area.
The original 360 was found to have a major defect in #5 main cap. The grove for the rope seal was too deep and the seal did not touch the crank.
To fix the block would have required a new cap and align bore then hone. They could have shimmed the rope seal up and it may have lasted till after the warranty expired.
I did not own the truck back then, I would have bought that block from the dealer then replaced the #5 cap.
