Electrical gremlin
Are simply trying to confirm the ammeter is where the break in the line is?
For that there are two simple tests.
One is what you did. If there is battery power on one post, and not on the other post, there's a break.
All of the wires connected to the battery should be hot at all times. That includes two or three of the fused circuits, the wire up to the alternator, the output wire from the alternator, and power to the horn (not shown on this schematic).
The other is disconnect the battery and check for continuity between the two posts.
The ammeter simply shows if power is flowing through that line. In other words whether the battery is charging or discharging.
At all other times its at zero. If you want a quick test, bolt the wires together. Safest to do this on one of the ammeter posts. Its critical to keep the wires and terminals from accidently grounding. If you goof and ground the battery, the fusible link will go poof!
Not really sure what you're trying to test out.
Are simply trying to confirm the ammeter is where the break in the line is?
For that there are two simple tests.
One is what you did. If there is battery power on one post, and not on the other post, there's a break.
All of the wires connected to the battery should be hot at all times. That includes two or three of the fused circuits, the wire up to the alternator, the output wire from the alternator, and power to the horn (not shown on this schematic).
The other is disconnect the battery and check for continuity between the two posts.
The ammeter simply shows if power is flowing through that line. In other words whether the battery is charging or discharging.
At all other times its at zero. If you want a quick test, bolt the wires together. Safest to do this on one of the ammeter posts. Its critical to keep the wires and terminals from accidently grounding. If you goof and ground the battery, the fusible link will go poof!
