Torque Converter? Where am I at? What is compromised?

IMO, I call this a hell of a setup, with that engine in that little car, .2 sec in a 1/4. I could see 9's at 125, I say a lower trap speed as those short tires could hold speed down with your gears. Now if you intend to only run 1/8th, not a big deal if the car is a street/strip. Stall speed is nothing when you can't hold the rear tires from cutting loose. On the street you will be wasting rpm and making a lot of un necessary heat in the transmission. Now for street driving leaving stop lights converters have what is called a flash point rpm where they allow engines to briefly hit an rpm much higher than the stall rate. The ONLY reason for using a higher stall speed is to get the engine rpm closer to the lower limit of the power curve under any and all conditions. If you are running a trans brake and you have a cam that starts in at 3800 you would obviously want a converter close to that. Not advisable to go over because then you would be wasting torque and drive at the bottom. If your engine is happy idling at 1000 and power curve comes in a 3.2k I would be perfectly happy with a 3k or for that matter maybe even 2.8k if the car is a streeter. Having a converter with a higher stall lets you put it in gear at idle much easier as it will not load down the engine at lower rpm. Having a stall higher as I mentioned, at lower speeds you will be in a mode I call freewheeling where the engine is just running along basically wasting fuel and not pulling. It's like going down a hill with your foot on the gas, filling cylinders with fuel and not using that fuel to make power, you don't need it ! Of course if you are goin down a hill with a high stall, you won't have much engine braking affect either, you will simply coast along gaining speed until the rpm go up above some point of the rated stall. This makes you use your foot brakes more or shift into a lower gear and that's not good either. At one time many years ago, I was running a 440 with a cam that came on around 3.4k not a big cam but not a stocker either, it was an Erson grind. I was perfectly happy with it for the purpose, my car was a driver and would run mid 12's with street tires. I had a fair bit of work into the heads, intake and using 1-7/8 headers. I used a stock 11 inch 727 converter at the factory rated 2800 rpm. No trans brake and could cut a 60 ft time of 1.6 sec. The car left the line like it was shot from a rifle as long as I could hold the tires. Usually that was impossible and even blowing away, I cut the times. I never had a chance to run on slicks or real drag racing tires. I did spend some time around a few guys that were points champs for the S.W region of the nation while I had this car and they all were impressed with it for what it was, they did not expect it. Told me if I swapped on a set of 30 inch x 9 or 10's it wouldn't be likely to see the times reduced to near 1 with 1/4 knocking on 10's because I was smoking thru the lights in 3rd gear. That car was geared with 3.55's which only enforced the issue that everything worked good. I didn't have to sacrifice anything and although I would have liked to swapped in a set of 3:91's which would have necessitated a new set of tires for street use of much taller and that would have caused issues with rim width and off set. I didn't want to go narrower.

Thanks.. In a little while I will have the EFI setup perfected and will get it in for a Dyno and Dyno tune. With that info, I can tell when the cam starts to pull and can go from there. On paper this should be very powerful. I can then work on getting the power to the ground.