Small Block Cam Info - Magnum Head Swap

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Stup I got the spreadsheet downloaded
do not know when I'll have time to play with it
thanks
Wyrm
 
Stup I got the spreadsheet downloaded
do not know when I'll have time to play with it
thanks
Wyrm

Hopefully you can make some sense of it, it was kind of customized for my purposes but I can change it up if needed. Hopefully you can get some good out of it.
 
Well I might be changing my plans, I got a free 360 last week and I think I have a line on a super cheap magnum 5.9. Now I'm torn about putting money into the 318, thinking about getting some 302 heads from the junkyard and doing a cam swap with the 4 barrel intake from the free truck motor. That way I can throw the money into one of the 360's and shove it in.

The 360 motor looks like it's in rough shape, the cam lobes are flat and one of the push rods is sticking through the rocker, it's also locked up pretty tight but it looks like one of the cylinders had some moisture in it at some point. It also looks like it's been bored 30 already but I'll confirm when I get more time.
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This is what I would do. In stages. Start with a good ignition system. Does it still retain the lean burn system? If so, dump it, convert to electronic or HEI. Put better exhaust on it. Just duals from the manifolds will do wonders. After I do that, then convert to a Performer or cast iron spread bore with either a TQ or Holley spreadbore carb. Itll run better and possibly get better mileage at it.
You are going to need to do this with any of the swaps you are talking about anyways.
Just my $.02
 
I've stripped the lean burn, it's running normal chrysler electronic ignition. I'll definitely be putting the spread bore 4 barrel intake on, just wondering if I should bother with a cam/head swap at this point. Maybe I can keep my eyes pealed on here for something used. Would a set of mild ported 302 heads be worth throwing on or should I just use the heads that are on it now?
 
well how good shape are the heads on it?
when you get the heads off check the deck clearance at all 4 corners and write it down
u are most likey to need timing chain
figure out your cr b 4 thinking of cam
 
The 5.9L is going to be better out of the box to move that B-van around. It cam with a higher static compression ratio, by maybe 3/4 of a point. But the roller cams are a lot pricier.

BTW, were you limiting your lift on the cam ideas due to retainer/guide boss clearance? It is not much trouble to grind the bosses down some, if the head is apart and you are doing mild porting anyway.
 
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I use the van so I don't want to tear it apart until i have everything to put it back together. We didn't crack it open when we pulled it from the truck. Wishing we would have now but we were short on time and we knew it was a good running 318. It had a new timing chain installed in it, we did make sure the plastic garbage wasn't still there.

I will take my time with the mag or LA 360, and I won't mind spending money on a good motor now that I plan on keeping the van and fixing it up. It's like driving a big heavy gocart and I love it. I just want short term 'betterness' until I get the swap motor lined out.

Really kicking myself for giving away the 318 I tore out of the van. It had the smog heads on it and looked like it was a freshly (poorly) rebuilt motor.
 
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I was running into the lift issue because of the spring binding height, I may have the seal problem if I use different heads but I doubt I'll go over 0.500 lift if I put a cam in this 318.
 
cut the guides for viton seals use the largest size that fit
save the small ones for dual and tripple springs
less chance of cracking a guide
 
Well, my plans changed really fast. Found a 95 ram van with a mag 360, A518 and a Dana 60 full floating rear axle with limited slip so I guess I should just go straight into the swap. Got it home and it runs and drives, the trans does slip so I'll need to rebuild it but seems like a decent deal for $400. The outside and interior are horrible looking but it's super clean underneath, the motor and trans are really clean for having 93,000 on it.

Wymer, thanks for the input on the year for trans! I think I might go with the roller lunati now. Think I'm going to tear it down enough to check it out, throw in a new cam, the 015, Hughes springs, timing chain, new intake and shove it in. Hopefully some parts will come up for sale on here soon I can use... Missed out on a double roller timing chain already.

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Nice score! You may need to use the wiring and module to shift that A518 for a '96. Not sure of the cut-off year but I'm sure you can find the info here.
 
Thanks! From what I could find 1995 was the cut off so it does have the 46RH, crawled under it to double check before I loaded it up. Still need to figure out how I'm going to control it, seems like a couple toggle switches would work fine for the short term.
 
do some searches stub lots of folks have figured controllers
I did one with a Stewart Warner switch in the spedo cable it unlocked when slowing down
btw stock trans unlocks during shifts - up or down
post up what you find
 
Rolling slow, as usual.

Dropped the donor motor and trans from the church van over the weekend. Worked great dropping the subframe out vs trying to go out the front of the van. I've done it both ways and this was far and away the easier option if you have the equipment available. I couldn't find anywhere on the net that this had been done so posting it here and the Van forum if anyone is ever curious. Donar is a super extended 1995 B3500 van.

Probably going to re-use the mag heads after some quick porting cleanup, don't have funds at the moment for heads so I will have to tackle that portion another time. Scored a "new" cam and spring set from a reman 318 awhile back so I'll throw all of that in. Have to rebuild the A518 since it's somewhat trashed but that shouldn't be too much of a hurdle since it still partially functioned.

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More developments with the project.

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I ended up buying a ski boat with a Chrysler Marine 300SP (LA360) but it's blown up, the previous owner ran it out of oil, looks like the pressure switch failed. Anyways, I'm now thinking about trying to plug the magnum into the boat and use the LA in the van. I know the magnum swap into the boat may be tricky with the balanced parts but it looks like people have worked through it. I thought the roller motor may be better suited for the marine application and the LA would be fine in the old van that doesn't get used as often and would be more of a hot street/tow unit. Photo below of the junk van I'm slowing fixing up.

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Just practicing his 12oz curls, gotta work on that muscle memory early. Going to have to swap wheels, I think I'm going to throw all the 8 lug stuff on it from the donor van.
 
Thanks! I'm setting my expectations low so I'm not disappointed, it is such a dog right now.

Used this graph to compare the cam's once I picked a few that worked, it was pretty interesting to visually see the lobe separation, duration and when the valves open and close for the different grinds.
Camshaft Calculator & Valve Overlap Profiles | MGI SpeedWare

I've referenced a few builds online and some engine masters episodes to help my cam selection, these were much higher RPM engines than what I'll be building and flowed much better.
318 Small Block Build - How To - Hot Rod Magazine
318 Engine Build - A Parts Book 400HP 318 - Mopar Muscle Magazine - Hot Rod

Ep:53 (I had the same thought about selecting a cam based on the intake valve closing sooner to raise compression but they showed static compression doesn't matter near as much as air moving through the heads. I compared the cam used in that video to a few I was looking at for comparison, Comp Cams 21-600-5)
ENGINE MASTERS: Season 4, Episode 53 - The 440 You Can Afford | MotorTrend
Ep:58 (This is where they actually degree'd the cam in)
ENGINE MASTERS: Season 5, Episode 58 - Advances in Cam Timing | MotorTrend
Have you considered a custom ground cam? As the company that you have grind your cam will use all the information you give them in order to grind you a cam to meet your requirements instead of a off the shelf one fit's all.
 
Yes, I actually bought a cam from a member here and I'm trying to decide if I want to go that route or just get an off the shelf cam.
 
Finally got the motor pulled. Crank throws 1 and 3 were trashed, going to try to save the crank but don't have a ton of faith.

It is a 360 roller block but has a flat tappet cam, also has the 308 casting head and everything still looks brand new minus the crank and rods. No ring ridge, and still has the hone marks in the cylinder walls.

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