POR15

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Joeycurl

‘72 Demon 440
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Don't know what happened to the other thread i started on this topic, but to those that gave feedback .... Thank you.

One last question when doing/applying the coating of POR15, is it best to work in sections or to do everything at once? Meaning, can I de-rust and seal a small area or better to do all at once?

thxs
 
It cures with moisture, to a very hard finish. It likes to be applied over as-is surfaces. I set a pan of water in the work area with a fan for air movement, works very well.
 
Thanks guys! Looking to put in about 8hrs over the weekend into the project. lets see how far i can get.
 
Update: started working on removing the rust today.

question: do I need to take the pitted surface down flat to bare metal? Or what I have good enough to move on? See pictures. All scaling has been removed.
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Update: started working on removing the rust today.

question: do I need to take the pitted surface down flat to bare metal? Or what I have good enough to move on? See pictures. All scaling has been removed.
View attachment 1715789455
View attachment 1715789456
View attachment 1715789457

My car was blasted and epoxy primed inside and out. There was some residual factory "Pooled" primer in some of the valleys of the floor, but not like you show here.

I coated the entire floor again in POR15 just to be safe!
 
Update: started working on removing the rust today.

question: do I need to take the pitted surface down flat to bare metal? Or what I have good enough to move on? See pictures. All scaling has been removed.
View attachment 1715789455
View attachment 1715789456
View attachment 1715789457

I'm certainly no expert on the stuff, but doesn't it defeat the purpose if you remove all of the rust (i,e., Paint Over Rust)? At that point, why not just use a different product?

Not to be a smart ***, but what do the directions say?
 
I'm certainly no expert on the stuff, but doesn't it defeat the purpose if you remove all of the rust (i,e., Paint Over Rust)? At that point, why not just use a different product?

Not to be a smart ***, but what do the directions say?

not a smart ***… so no worries

direction says to remove all loose rust. Guess everyone has a different definition of all loose rust… so looking to those that have experience to say if it’s enough
 
not a smart ***… so no worries

direction says to remove all loose rust. Guess everyone has a different definition of all loose rust… so looking to those that have experience to say if it’s enough

You're probably fine as-is. Ultimately, it'll be hidden under carpet anyway and likely last longer that whatever was used originally.

That's a great looking floorpan! I'm sure you're making a lot of east coast guys jealous with that clean CA sheet metal. You're doing a great job by the way. Keep it up!!
 
It chemically converts the rust to an inert form, so it doesn't have to be perfect, in fact, I think it works better with a little flash rust. I like that it's self leveling, so no brush marks, and factory part numbers are still visible. My only wish is that it wasn't so expensive, but like most products in life, you get what you pay for. Paul.
 
You're probably fine as-is. Ultimately, it'll be hidden under carpet anyway and likely last longer that whatever was used originally.

That's a great looking floorpan! I'm sure you're making a lot of east coast guys jealous with that clean CA sheet metal. You're doing a great job by the way. Keep it up!!
Well the metal is mostly solid. Found some small holes in the passenger side under the dash. So can this been filled or better to cut out and replace the section?
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Well the metal is mostly solid. Found some small holes in the passenger side under the dash. So can this been filled or better to cut out and replace the section? View attachment 1715789676
The metal is thin when it's doing that. I'd weld in a patch for it, though I've seen others 'fix' it many other ways. If that's the worst of your rust, you're doing really good. Keep it up!
 
I opted to weld in small patches, but have used JB Weld and the POR 15 2 part putty on other cars. Both work fine for a cheap "fix".
 
It’s been a long while and been meaning to post the after pictures. So here they are. The first is the washing and degreasing——-> then the after application shot using grey POR15 ———> patched the holes with fiberglass and POR15 Patch. ——-> the last shot was the work in process to add jute padding. Since I didn’t have any or much of it and was old with rust stains. Didn’t go with kilamat or dynamat or other since didn’t want to have to lift it off if I needed too.

Thanks everyone for all the guidance and advice.

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