Holley Swap Pan Issue

-

jlmotorsports

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2021
Messages
10
Reaction score
2
Location
South Haven, MN
Trying to put a holley swap pan onto my 08 5.7 for my 70 dart swap. Ran into an issue when putting in the oil pickup tube, when the pickup is in the pump and located on the stud near the middle of the engine, the hole where the bracket mounts at the oil pump does not line up. It seems to be clocked incorrectly as everything else seems to line up properly, except that hole, has anyone else.had this issue? sent email to holley but couldn't get anyone on the phone yet, thought I'd try here.
 
Never heard of a holley swap pan...Damn, where the fk have I been!lol

Remove and relocate the tab on the pickup tube if need be.
 
Is that pan for a LA or a Magnum engine?
I did a quick Search and all I found was GM LS kits.
I could have missed something.
 
Never heard of a holley swap pan...Damn, where the fk have I been!lol

Remove and relocate the tab on the pickup tube if need be.
Yeah holley part number 302-60 or 302-61 for vvt engines, seems like a nice piece except for this one issue, if nobody else has had an issue I'll just chop it and reweld it.

16215518638386610311022852725667.jpg


16215518786526266397806617968207.jpg
 
here are photos, the end bracket fits nice onto the main stud, and the tube runs nicely along the windage tray, but when all is said and done the hold at pump is about a full diameter off, think I will chop/rotate/fix it, but wonder if this is an isolated issue, issue with all pans, or something weird with my engine that it's not right.

20210520_192404.jpg


20210520_192408.jpg
 
Y'know, I'd let Holley know and show them the pics- and then go ahead and fix it. They'll either make it right with you, or claim that they've never had any complaints before... but it's a new product and early enough in the production run that they may actually appreciate a heads up about it.
 
Make sure they sent you the right tube. I haven't used Holley stuff yet. But, I have plenty of experience with the Milodon stuff. That is the exact difference between VVT(Eagle), and earlier 08 down.
 
Make sure they sent you the right tube. I haven't used Holley stuff yet. But, I have plenty of experience with the Milodon stuff. That is the exact difference between VVT(Eagle), and earlier 08 down.
Good to know! :thumbsup:
Gentlemen, we have an answer!
 
Good to know! :thumbsup:
Gentlemen, we have an answer!
Didn't want to be long winded. I ran into this very issue between 09 up Eagle and 08 down early engines with the Milodon stuff. Doing a quick switch in the son's Scamp. VVT for an early. Had an extra oil pan, not the tube. Thought, well, how different can it be. Well, there you have it. It's so f@×%$in close! WTF?!!! LOL.
 
I will definitely double check the boxes and contact holley tomorrow, but is there a chance I actually have a vvt engine and just don't know it? it's from a 08 truck and I don't think the engine was ever replaced so just assumed non eagle non vvt, am I wrong? what's the easiest way to tell for sure? engine is still 90 percent together as pulled, only intake is off. thanks for the help so far, we will see what I can find out tomorrow when I get back out to the shop
 
On the VVT, there will be a solenoid under the intake, directly behind the "birdhouse"/water pump area.
 
ok, no vvt solenoid, maybe I got the tube for the vvt engine by mistake, will be calling holley today and see what they say, thanks again for everyone's help
 
I'm considering this pan for my aluminum 6.1 block with a very leaky milodon pan. Other than the misclocked pickup attachment, has it worked out well? Is it leaky? Does it seem like they got the mating surface pretty flat?
 
it does seem very well built, the flange is thick and seems very flat. I haven't got the motor ready to run yet so haven't filled it with oil yet, but came with orings installed, and a decent set of instructions for truck motor vs car motor setup. I would recommend it so far, just haven't had a chance to put it through its paces yet on a running engine, but hopefully soon!
 
I swapped my non vvt milodon stuff for the holley stuff (I wanted the drop in windage tray and o-ring gasket) . Found out the hard way after pulling the milodon (again) without unbolting anything but the pan , that the holley wouldn't fit back in without raising the engine and lowering the hdk k-frame. I would guess it would be tighter with a stock k. Then found out the pan doesn't seat with studded mains. The rear bolt boss casting hits the stud nuts and required grinding the inside of the pan. 408 swinger called it on the vvt pick up tube. Just make sure you have the correct pump too since that's what the tube bolts to.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm running a Bouchillon 7.0 liter gen 3 crate with an aluminum block. As such, I have no idea on the internals since they can't provide them and Arrow racing(who built the engine for Bouchillon) is out of business now. You wouldn't happen to be able to measure the vertical height of the pan at the first bolt after the front bevel, would you? I'm running an aftermarket K and all that's under the pan is the steering rack, but there's not a lot of clearance above it.

Thank you both for the info.
 
Im Not sure what measurement you mean, but both pans fit the hdk kframe, Reilly should be the same. It's the pickup tube that prevented the holley pan from slipping in. Holley has a deeper "drop" before the rearward bend preventing the thicker pan from sliding up and In. Btw prefix racing is supplying arrow stuff .
 
I meant: The front of the pan has a bevel on both sides. Once the pan reaches full width after the bevel, there is a bolt on both sides(the first of many really). Those first bolts are directly above my steering rack. I was just wondering the height of the pan at that exact point.

I bought all the stuff on my car quite a few years ago. I don't have a lot of hope that Prefix will have records of my build, but I'll certainly call and ask them.

It takes a long damned time to build a car when you're just doing it on weekends. I've gotten a couple of thousand miles on the car and have to pull the TKO to fix a leak from the top and figured I might as well do some other things while I've got it up and apart.
 
20210913_193117.jpg
20210913_193117.jpg
here you go,from the pan rail,looks to be 4 1/8". I had just put the car back in the garage from yesterday (show and track time)so it was on the lift. I also measured the pan sump to rack tube.
20210913_193123.jpg


20210913_193218.jpg


20210913_193229.jpg


20210913_193326.jpg
 
I forgot I have just about 3" to the top of the rack tube., assuming you have a 1 1/8" diameter tube
 
Thank you so much! I have a 2" diameter tube on my rack(flaming river power rack) and about 4 5/8 to the bottom of the tube. Do I see right that the tube-to-pan measurement looks to be 5/8"? I only have about 5/32" between my rack and pan now, so maybe that'll give me the clearance I need. Your rack looks to be slightly more aft than mine. It's really close whether or not it will clear.
 
I have a pan in hand now...it looks like it will just barely fit. Excited to get that in there.
 
Update: If you're using rear main studs instead of bolts, you may need to clearance the pan at the middle two bolts in the back. I had to do so and the pan now fits fine. The clearance area for me was around 1/8" horizontal vs 3/16" vertical. I had no problem with the bolt holes being in the wrong place for the pickup.

Even with my larger diameter rack, it seems to fit fine at this point. My transmission is out, so the back of the engine is hanging lower, but I pushed the back up as hard as I could and I still cleared the rack.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top