Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
I have used Crane, MP, and Lunatti without issue. They are all older 3+ years, NOS hydraulic lifters. 65'
Lifters losing pressure.
- Thread starter Clelan
- Start date
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QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Crower had or has some cam saver lifters. Never used them but those might be a quality piece.
The best brand of lifters are factory lifters or any aftermarket lifters made prior to the late 1990s.
Get them re-faced & you will have reliable lifters!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, take the risk...
Been saying this on this forum & others, sounding like a broken record..............
Get them re-faced & you will have reliable lifters!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, take the risk...
Been saying this on this forum & others, sounding like a broken record..............
Crower makes a good lifter still.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
the "chevy guy" secret to quite hydraulic lifters at start up always was stp oil treatment! idk if thay still make it as i only here of folks running lucas oil treatment now days...
furrystump
Well-Known Member
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I would just let them pump up. I would use it as a leaning experience. I won’t put a hydr cam in anything. You can make an argument for a stock build, but do you want to build it again because of a crappy lifter? Are you going to spend $800 on tool steel lifters on a stock build? Who makes a high dollar, almost guaranteed to work HYDR lifter? Most high dollar, a tool steel lifter is a solid lifter. The idea of a hydr lifter is ease of Maintenance and ease of production. The maintenance of a solid lifter is overstated. You will need adjustable rockers for a solid, but adjusting it and checking it once a year is like a physical for your motor. You may catch things going south in the beginning. Before they get really expensive.
I wouldn't like it either. Noise in an engine part that's normally supposed to be quiet is indicative of no oil. That's never a good thing. Here's what I'm thinking. I bet that camshaft was ground on a reduced base circle, like a regrind. With Summit outsourcing their camshaft line now, instead of Crane providing them, it wouldn't surprise me if it WAS a regrind. I don't believe there's any way to tell though.
However, you CAN tell if you don't have enough lifter preload when it's cold before you start it for the first time. I know, a little bit of a pain, but get the valve covers off and go down the line and check to see if any pushrods and rockers are overly loose. That would tell you that the camshaft is possibly ground on a reduced base circle.
If that's the case, you have a couple of options. The easiest would be to measure for new pushrods and get the correct length. Then, of course, you could go with adjustable rockers.
It "could" be cheap *** lifters, but there's an easy enough way to check by removing the valve covers and noting if you have any really loose rockers and pushrods.
The problem is, since those camshafts are now outsourced, I bet nobody at Summit can give you any details regarding them. Who the hell knows what they are now or where they come from? They might be pulling them out of a junk core pile, cleaning them up, regrinding them and sending them to Summit. You won't find anybody that can tell......or will tell you if they know.
IMO, even on a dead stock build, you're doing yourself a favor to convert these engines to an adjustable valve train. That way you can get the lifter preload dead right. THEN if you have noise issues,, you KNOW it's a shitty lifter.
As it is now, you don't know "for sure".
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
If you shut it of off hot and can pull a valve cover and press on a rocker arm and depress the plunger in the lifter IMO it’s bleeding down to quickly and a shitty check valve on that lifter. They should hold pressure for a while after shut down.
I don't disagree. I'm too lazy to read it all.....did he say he can do that?
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Did ya finger it out yet...?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
No he didn’t. I was just referencing my way of knowing how to determine if a lifter is shitty or not.
Well, I am in complete agreement most hydraulic lifters today SUCK. ESPECIALLY those included in kits and cheaper ones. That's why, when I look for engine parts, I hawk ebay for NOS stuff in old yellowed out boxes. You know you're at least getting something made in USA.
So I ran it and popped the valve covers off and everything was solid as it should be. Checked it 2 hours later, still good. This morning, 6 or 7 hours later, I had 2 soft lifters. Just not pumped up. I now know the problem, I guess I'll live with it at least for now.
Cley
Cley
Yep shitty lifters!
Well at least you know now.
I pulled my valve covers off right after running the engine and you could watch every valve close right in front of you!
Mine would bleed down in about 10 minutes!
Next cam will be a Solid flat...
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
If your lifters are bleeding down, you'll usually hear it after shut off...
Sounds like a socket extension tapping the valve cover,oil pan or trans pan....as each lifter gives up it's stored pressure.
If it's just noisy every start up...try checking the pushrod length, more than likely it's short. Chrysler had pre loads all over from .040- .080 even.
Sounds like a socket extension tapping the valve cover,oil pan or trans pan....as each lifter gives up it's stored pressure.
If it's just noisy every start up...try checking the pushrod length, more than likely it's short. Chrysler had pre loads all over from .040- .080 even.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
I just purchased a set of Morel solid rollers to replace my bagged out Comp retrofit hyd rollers
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
They are relatively easy to dis assemble and clean. Sometimes its beneficial as crud gets hung up in em. Might be worth a try before buying another set.
pishta
I know I'm right....
youll always find glitter in the bottoms as there is no where for it to drain to. Like little buckets. Lifters are not designed to stay pumped forever, the tolerances are just not required for them to do what they are supposed to do.
I remember reading a Johnson hydraulic lifter white paper about how long the lifters take to bleeds down by design. It was like 10-18 seconds! They are not designed to stay pumped for longer periods as their only purpose is to take up the slop of a hydraulic cam. It should take just a few revolutions of a motor to fill the lifters with oil and they automatically pump themselves up to zero lash where they happily stay for the duration of that motors run cycle. No appreciable amount of oil is going to blow past a .00001 tolerance piston in .1 second...at idle. Johnson has found that dirty lifters are by far the most common cause of lifter issues.
I remember reading a Johnson hydraulic lifter white paper about how long the lifters take to bleeds down by design. It was like 10-18 seconds! They are not designed to stay pumped for longer periods as their only purpose is to take up the slop of a hydraulic cam. It should take just a few revolutions of a motor to fill the lifters with oil and they automatically pump themselves up to zero lash where they happily stay for the duration of that motors run cycle. No appreciable amount of oil is going to blow past a .00001 tolerance piston in .1 second...at idle. Johnson has found that dirty lifters are by far the most common cause of lifter issues.
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