Disappointed in my 383 on the Dyno

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Dartnut said:
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the statement that ''I can't find a 440 block for less than a grand''.
A whole running engine out of a New Yorker maybe, but just the block?
Look around, you should be able to find a standard bore block and caps that need machining for around 400 bucks or so.........
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Been looking, can’t find anything close to that price that isn’t sketchy as hell
 
Rassnasty82 said:
Been looking, can’t find anything close to that price that isn’t sketchy as hell
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I suppose it also depends on your location.
Around here, for $400 or so is the going rate as long as it's not an H.P. or older than a '71, they are around if you look.........
 
The dual roller wheel dyno i tune on shows 18-20% for most stick cars. That number is calculated from engine dyno numbers. Automatics can be much worse depenxing on lock up tc or not, converter specs etc.
 
Can lose 40% through the drivetrain if the tune is off on the load.
 
I hate to see posts like this.I know about bunch of people when the RPM package 1st came out and they wernt happy.This was chevy and mopar people.
 
Those are only numbers! The only Dino that counts is what connects your right foot to the pavement and the seat of your pants to the seat of the car.
 
Rassnasty82 said:
Timing is set at 37 wot with full msd system.


should I keep the heads or sell the performer rpm kit and buy a new top end from trickflo or a higher flowing head? Would it make more sense to just have these heads sent to a machine shop and just upgrade the cam before doing a stroker? I suppose it might make more sense to do it all at once
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I can only speak for a 440, but there is nothing wrong with the performer RPM head. In stock form it will easily get you in the ballpark of 500hp and 11's. In ported form it will easily make over 600 and go 10's.

Is there better than a ported RPm out there? IDK... At the time I bought mine, which flow 345 on the intake, there wasn't a better SP head available. Maybe the trick flows are better, I can't say.

I would highly recommend a solid roller cam cut specifically for your application.
 
Granted, my ‘69 ‘cuda was an automatic but some years ago I went a 12.64 at the Mopar Nationals with the following set up.
.020 over 440 with pocket ported 906 heads, stock valves, cast iron intake, ‘68 AVS 440 carb, 284/484 Mopar cam, stock distributor, 2” TTI headers, unknown 10” converter, 3” exhaust (overkill in my opinion), 3:55 gears and 275-60-15 T/A drag radials. I’ll post the chassis dyno sheets if I find them but the car was a ball to drive and pretty much stock.
 
So i found a 440 bare block in good shape that I am planning on picking up and building over the course of the winter. Being that I already have the 383, other than an extension for the MSD distributor what else will need to be changed? In theory, its taller so it should actually clear the steering box more due to the added height of the block? my headers are TTI so my assumption is they will still work but I am not 100 percent sure. Any suggestions on a stroker kit? anyone have one they are trying to move lol?
 
IMO the 440/512 is the best stroker kit

The 440 base is a good move. right off the bat you gain 57+ cubic inches. You're literally going from a small block to a big block, and it has far more stroker potential as well.
 
Bigdummy said:
400 is easier for room just sayin
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I mean i thought the main difference with 383/400 vs 440 was deck height of block which would essentially move the headers upwards? That would actually prob be a good thing considering how close the headers are to the steering box currently
 
Rassnasty82 said:
I mean i thought the main difference with 383/400 vs 440 was deck height of block which would essentially move the headers upwards? That would actually prob be a good thing considering how close the headers are to the steering box currently
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It's all tight.
 
Rassnasty82 said:
lol so is the block wider or just taller?
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Well. of course because the deck is approx an inch taller, that makes it wider cuz its a V-type engine. I know others have said an RB stroker is super sweet and I cant argue with them, but you must know you can do more than most folks can or want to handle with a stroked 400 right?? A 400 is a direct bolt in, since B engines were offered at the factory. Trust me, its a good bit less hassle and weight on the nose. One of the big issues you'll find on an RB swap is the proximity of the exhaust ports to the inner fenders. The steering box issue is the same for either motor. HTH, Lefty71
 
The 400 block also has a stronger bottom end than the 440 block. If you start really pushing the hp, the crank is more likely to stay in the block with the low-deck...
 
DrCharles said:
The 400 block also has a stronger bottom end than the 440 block. If you start really pushing the hp, the crank is more likely to stay in the block with the low-deck...
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so i am getting a bare clock for 300 bored .25 but needs finish bore with main caps. Anything else i should have done prior to ordering a stroker kit from 440source?
 
Sadly, when I built my 470 from a 400, we used nothing at all from that engine, except the block itself and the main caps.
 
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