Front shocks too loose? Better 60ft?

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Toluene56

Toluene56

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So I'm not sure, I might be needing new front shocks? Been trying to get my 60fts down best I can get is 1.56. Or maybe Another converter? This one is new, but runs the same as the old dynamic I have.
This is only only starting line video I have.
What do you guys think?

Front suspension - stock 318 torsion bars
CE 3 way shocks which are questionable
Rear suspension- cal trac mono leafs and bars, set on top hole, qa1 DA shocks
Tires - 28x9x15 Mt pro bracket radials @18psi
Yank converter flashes around 4800, 4.30 gears.
Car #129 - run at 6553ft DA
20210917_195607.jpg


Slowed down version

Dragy screen shot of the same run
Screenshot_20210919-102943_dragy.jpg
 
That's tough. I go 1.43-1.45 with ce 3way and super stock springs. My friend goes 1.39-1.42 with same set-up I have. Maybe converter?
 
73smallblock said:
That's tough. I go 1.43-1.45 with ce 3way and super stock springs. My friend goes 1.39-1.42 with same set-up I have. Maybe converter?
Click to expand...
While watching the video it almost looks like the car hops, like the front end tops out faster? I'm probably wrong, but I wonder if slowing down the front would help it some? I do think one of of shocks is messed up, I can't hear it click anymore when I try to adjust it.
 
73smallblock said:
That's tough. I go 1.43-1.45 with ce 3way and super stock springs. My friend goes 1.39-1.42 with same set-up I have. Maybe converter?
Click to expand...
front end did seem a little tite ,if ur thinking of replacing the front shocks , u could drill a 1/16'' hole in the old ones and let the fluid out , and back the top nut off far as it would go. helped on the cheap back in the old days .
 
The video is kinda fuzzy and hard to see the separation you’re getting. Gut instinct says you need a better front shock like what you have in the rear. Are you topping out the front suspension on launch? Does the car respond to changes in front shock settings?
 
bob mCcarty said:
front end did seem a little tite ,if ur thinking of replacing the front shocks , u could drill a 1/16'' hole in the old ones and let the fluid out , and back the top nut off far as it would go. helped on the cheap back in the old days .
Click to expand...
I actually have a set of stockers that have already been drilled out. Buried somewhere. Lol
 
TT5.9mag said:
The video is kinda fuzzy and hard to see the separation you’re getting. Gut instinct says you need a better front shock like what you have in the rear. Are you topping out the front suspension on launch? Does the car respond to changes in front shock settings?
Click to expand...
It responds with everything in the rear. But I feel like there is no change in the front.
I don't expect 1.4 60s at this elevation and combo, but a mid or low 1.5 I figured would be possible.
 
Toluene56 said:
It responds with everything in the rear. But I feel like there is no change in the front.
I don't expect 1.4 60s at this elevation and combo, but a mid or low 1.5 I figured would be possible.
Click to expand...

didnt sound like u were loading the convertor much------------??
 
If it’s dead hooking, suspension changes aren’t going to be worth anything.

The 60’ times seem a little soft, but that could just be the DA.

Try opening up the valve lash for a few passes.
Enough so the motor will really see it.
 
60' might be a tad slow, I was thinking it would be maybe 1.54 or so for the ET, but your 60'-1/8-1/4 and mph seems pretty consistent for what the car is going. If the car is consistently having the same 60', it's more than likely not spinning and hooking. Being you tried 2 different convertors and both ran the same, I'd say that more than likely your car is running what it's going to run for the combo you have.

I have a Uncle-in-law that has a Chevy that runs 9.70s. He tried 3 different convertors in his car. An 8" that was his original, another 8" was made specifically for his combo (He had his engine on dyno) and a buddies 9". Between all 3 convertors his car varied 1 tenth in the 1/4. One convertor would 60' better but than not mph as much as another. Now a good convertor will pick you up a ton over a stock or street style convertor, but unless your chasing every last .001 if you have a decent convertor doubt you will see much with a convertor change.

As far as shocks, I had the CE 3 way adjustable on my car for probably 10 years. Never had a issue with them til about last year. When running 1/4 mile the car would like wiggle when I got out of it, not all the time, but some of the time. I finally replaced them this past winter and the one shock was bad. It wouldn't adjust and was way easier to work than the other. The wiggle was from when I would lift the shock that was bad would allow that side of the front to come down quicker making the body sorta roll. I replaced them with QA1 Stocker shocks. Car still 60's the same. The car is smoother now when I lift and I have played with the adjustments to help tune my lights. My car is backhalved with a big tire and only running mid to high 10s.
 
Had CE 3 ways on the front of my super stock spring small tire 9.80’s Duster. 28 by 10 tire.
Worked so well i never took them off.
1.34 60 foot, 3350 pounds.
 
PRH said:
If it’s dead hooking, suspension changes aren’t going to be worth anything.

The 60’ times seem a little soft, but that could just be the DA.

Try opening up the valve lash for a few passes.
Enough so the motor will really see it.
Click to expand...
It doesn't really dead hook all the time. But all this will have to wait till next year. Track is done for the year. Unless I goto sea level.
But I was thinking about the lash thing to see if it helps.
 
moparstud440 said:
60' might be a tad slow, I was thinking it would be maybe 1.54 or so for the ET, but your 60'-1/8-1/4 and mph seems pretty consistent for what the car is going. If the car is consistently having the same 60', it's more than likely not spinning and hooking. Being you tried 2 different convertors and both ran the same, I'd say that more than likely your car is running what it's going to run for the combo you have.

I have a Uncle-in-law that has a Chevy that runs 9.70s. He tried 3 different convertors in his car. An 8" that was his original, another 8" was made specifically for his combo (He had his engine on dyno) and a buddies 9". Between all 3 convertors his car varied 1 tenth in the 1/4. One convertor would 60' better but than not mph as much as another. Now a good convertor will pick you up a ton over a stock or street style convertor, but unless your chasing every last .001 if you have a decent convertor doubt you will see much with a convertor change.

As far as shocks, I had the CE 3 way adjustable on my car for probably 10 years. Never had a issue with them til about last year. When running 1/4 mile the car would like wiggle when I got out of it, not all the time, but some of the time. I finally replaced them this past winter and the one shock was bad. It wouldn't adjust and was way easier to work than the other. The wiggle was from when I would lift the shock that was bad would allow that side of the front to come down quicker making the body sorta roll. I replaced them with QA1 Stocker shocks. Car still 60's the same. The car is smoother now when I lift and I have played with the adjustments to help tune my lights. My car is backhalved with a big tire and only running mid to high 10s.
Click to expand...
I agree about the converter.. I don't think changing it will make a difference. If I ran at sea level my opinion might change. But for now I think the 1.56-1.58 is it's happy spot.
 
I was there running over the weekend, on Sunday i was going 1.47 sixty foot, I believe you have more engine than I do, imo if you went to a good shock and /6 bars that would benefit you a lot.
 
ValiantRacing said:
I was there running over the weekend, on Sunday i was going 1.47 sixty foot, I believe you have more engine than I do, imo if you went to a good shock and /6 bars that would benefit you a lot.
Click to expand...
I was going to eventually do qa1 da up front to match the rears. It was actually hooking pretty well Friday night.
This picture was a 1.56 60ft
FB_IMG_1632357955529.jpg
 
I plugged in your 7.10 to Wallace's "ideal" calculator. It came back 1.56 60ft, 4.52 330, 96.75 mph.
I like that calculator, seems to be accurate for well sorted cars. It says you are right there!, not soft in the front half at all. Just my opinion.
 
33IMP said:
I plugged in your 7.10 to Wallace's "ideal" calculator. It came back 1.56 60ft, 4.52 330, 96.75 mph.
I like that calculator, seems to be accurate for well sorted cars. It says you are right there!, not soft in the front half at all. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...
Yea. I agree.. I just second guess myself when I see slower cars 60ft better. Like, hell what did I miss?... the combination is changing over winter. So I'll end up starting over with the tuning next year anyhow.
 
Toluene56 said:
Yea. I agree.. I just second guess myself when I see slower cars 60ft better. Like, hell what did I miss?... the combination is changing over winter. So I'll end up starting over with the tuning next year anyhow.
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. Ive got a buddy with a V6 Chevy on nitrous, in a Datsun pickup.
The sucker is within a half tenth 60ft of my 9.90s car, and a tenth and some faster than my low eleven car, and runs low sevens 1/8 like you. It's gotta be the nitrous hit at the green, the car is a stone without it.
 
33IMP said:
I feel your pain. Ive got a buddy with a V6 Chevy on nitrous, in a Datsun pickup.
The sucker is within a half tenth 60ft of my 9.90s car, and a tenth and some faster than my low eleven car, and runs low sevens 1/8 like you. It's gotta be the nitrous hit at the green, the car is a stone without it.
Click to expand...
Well, it's not bad for crap air..I could always start adding fiberglass body parts.
 
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