Bypassing ballast resistor
Funny jumped on a thread and has know Idea
What he meant was you should have started a new thread, but it's late for that
OK the diagram, did you install the relay? You likely are not getting spark when cranking the engine WITH THE KEY and the reason is this:
The key "run" voltage comes from the key IGN1. This is hot ONLY in run, and feeds out into the engine bay where, (depending on year/ model) it feeds the ignition and voltage regulator, electric choke if used, and smog doo dads on some newer years
THIS LINE GOES DEAD DURING CRANKING by means of how the ignition switch is made
The ignition system gets power ONLY during starting FROM the ignition switch via a second set of contacts, IGN2, usually brown, which goes to the end of the ballast which is hooked to coil+ THIS FEEDS "hot" full battery voltage to the coil during start
What this means is, that you need to end up with these two hooked together
The "easy" way in this case (after looking at your posted diagram) is to use the old coil+ wire to trigger the relay, and as discussed, bypass the ballast
CHECK THAT you have good hot spark during cranking.............To do that
Use a wire core wire, NOT "supression" wire in the coil. You can even use low voltage wire if you keep it "in the air" Connect from coil tower to a test gap "rigged" so you can see it. I rig it so I can look under the open hood. Crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get nice hot rhythmic blue sparks at least 3/8" and typically 1/2" long
If you do, then the rest is timing, most likely.
