Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
Having said that, if you have an issue with your car, you should start your own thread.
Bypassing ballast resistor
- Thread starter 74 360 dart sport
- Start date
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Have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
Having said that, if you have an issue with your car, you should start your own thread.
akavaliant1
Well-Known Member
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
What he meant was you should have started a new thread, but it's late for that
OK the diagram, did you install the relay? You likely are not getting spark when cranking the engine WITH THE KEY and the reason is this:
The key "run" voltage comes from the key IGN1. This is hot ONLY in run, and feeds out into the engine bay where, (depending on year/ model) it feeds the ignition and voltage regulator, electric choke if used, and smog doo dads on some newer years
THIS LINE GOES DEAD DURING CRANKING by means of how the ignition switch is made
The ignition system gets power ONLY during starting FROM the ignition switch via a second set of contacts, IGN2, usually brown, which goes to the end of the ballast which is hooked to coil+ THIS FEEDS "hot" full battery voltage to the coil during start
What this means is, that you need to end up with these two hooked together
The "easy" way in this case (after looking at your posted diagram) is to use the old coil+ wire to trigger the relay, and as discussed, bypass the ballast
CHECK THAT you have good hot spark during cranking.............To do that
Use a wire core wire, NOT "supression" wire in the coil. You can even use low voltage wire if you keep it "in the air" Connect from coil tower to a test gap "rigged" so you can see it. I rig it so I can look under the open hood. Crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get nice hot rhythmic blue sparks at least 3/8" and typically 1/2" long
If you do, then the rest is timing, most likely.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I would be careful. You need to understand, nobody here is getting paid for this
Work through what Del, @67Dart273, posted. I know it seems like a lot but take it one step at a time.
If you have a question about one step or need additional information about a step...just ask.
If you have a question about one step or need additional information about a step...just ask.
akavaliant1
Well-Known Member
Thank you I appreciate all the information I will do this step by step
akavaliant1
Well-Known Member
Thank you as well
aka,
The diagram you posted in post #25 is correct & that is how you should wire up the new system.
No ballast resistor. The only thing that might confuse people is in the diagram it states the old coil [+] wire now goes to terminal 85 on the relay. Two things to note about this: there could be more than one wire that connected to the coil [+] terminal. ALL of these wires need to connect to terminal 85. There might be a condenser connected to the coil [+] terminal. Remove it, not needed.
The diagram you posted in post #25 is correct & that is how you should wire up the new system.
No ballast resistor. The only thing that might confuse people is in the diagram it states the old coil [+] wire now goes to terminal 85 on the relay. Two things to note about this: there could be more than one wire that connected to the coil [+] terminal. ALL of these wires need to connect to terminal 85. There might be a condenser connected to the coil [+] terminal. Remove it, not needed.
I'm just wantin to see how many more people are gonna highjack this guy's thread.
Winner winner chicken dinner! Finally somebody said it.
akavaliant1
Well-Known Member
Thank you hopefully I can get this started
74 360 dart sport
Well-Known Member
Hey KenDog I am finally abled to get my car on the road you sent me this image on how to bypass my dual ballast resistor my question is when I connect the two wires together in red of your image and disable the green wire when i get done doing this do i plug it back into the ballast resistor or do i just leave them unplugged from the ballast resistor thank you Tom N.
74 360 dart sport
Well-Known Member
This 1
Could be 180 out
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
No ballast needed with your MSD.
74 360 dart sport
Well-Known Member
Correct but what do I do with the left side looking straight at the resistor that has a blue jumper wire top to bottom top wire colors are are blue with blue jumper bottom left side blue jumper with a green with a yellow stripe top right side of resistor green with red or orange stripe bottom right side has a bigger brown wire so I did as the image you posted idisabled the top right green with red or orange stripe I took the bottom right brown wire and connected that to the bottom left side of resistor and this is a msd ready to run distributor I have the breaker or whatever you call it that has the 85 30 I believe 87 and I cant remember what the other number is that is for the ready to run distributor please tell me what I need to do with the dual ballast resistor wires I told of there colors thank you thank you I am really confused on this so if you can tell me what wire colors go together that came from the resistor Tom Norman Montevideo Minnesota
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Connect your Brown (Ignition 2) wire to blue wire no Ballast. No green if 4 pin ECU. Sorry it's been awhile since I wired my 2 Darts. One is stock 4 pin with single ballast. The other is MSD with no ballast.
Also I'm told some wires could have different colors so follow the diagram.
Also I'm told some wires could have different colors so follow the diagram.
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