Be careful
Do not take that car to a normal collision shop. That car needs to be put on a fixture made specifically for 68-70 b-bodies. There are holes in the frame where 4 stands fit when on the fixture. I have one made for 108 wheel base a bodies. There is a shop in northeast Pa. that has a b-body e-body and a-body fixtures. Your car must be put on one before cutting it apart. After it is pulled and when installing new panels.
I have a Demon That is rust free we are making a race car out of. It was hit in the quarter many years ago and repaired with a new quarter. We put it on a fixture to find the car was twisted 1 inch. Being it is going to be a race car we are holding it square on a table fixture and putting rear rails and a cage in it. The car was never hit in the front . It was hit in the side right on the wheel house. But it was the front that twisted from the collision and overlooked when repaired.
Most collision shops just get the panels to fit and send the car down the road. And don't let them talk you into gluing the panels on. These old muscle cars are rear wheel drive. Unlike the newer front drive cars the take a lot of body flex. Full panels and weld them as per the factory did.
B-bodies were noted for cracking behind the doors on the top from the factory from flex with track pack cars. Just think what a glued panel will do.
That looks to have been a very nice car and would hate to see some fly by night shop do their get it out the door and get paid job on it. I must have owned over 20 of those 70 plymouths RR's and GTX's. No body lines, Easy to be made to look straight but just as easy to screw up and hide the bad work.
Do not take that car to a normal collision shop. That car needs to be put on a fixture made specifically for 68-70 b-bodies. There are holes in the frame where 4 stands fit when on the fixture. I have one made for 108 wheel base a bodies. There is a shop in northeast Pa. that has a b-body e-body and a-body fixtures. Your car must be put on one before cutting it apart. After it is pulled and when installing new panels.
I have a Demon That is rust free we are making a race car out of. It was hit in the quarter many years ago and repaired with a new quarter. We put it on a fixture to find the car was twisted 1 inch. Being it is going to be a race car we are holding it square on a table fixture and putting rear rails and a cage in it. The car was never hit in the front . It was hit in the side right on the wheel house. But it was the front that twisted from the collision and overlooked when repaired.
Most collision shops just get the panels to fit and send the car down the road. And don't let them talk you into gluing the panels on. These old muscle cars are rear wheel drive. Unlike the newer front drive cars the take a lot of body flex. Full panels and weld them as per the factory did.
B-bodies were noted for cracking behind the doors on the top from the factory from flex with track pack cars. Just think what a glued panel will do.
That looks to have been a very nice car and would hate to see some fly by night shop do their get it out the door and get paid job on it. I must have owned over 20 of those 70 plymouths RR's and GTX's. No body lines, Easy to be made to look straight but just as easy to screw up and hide the bad work.
