Car doesn’t move until high RPMS.

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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At this point I’m not sure if this is a transmission issue or a kickdown issue so I’m posting in in here. My car has been sitting a long time due to brake issues. Went to load it onto the trailer Saturday and noticed it was really struggling to get up the ramps. It finally got up there at around 3000 RPM. Backed it off the trailer and onto the lift and noticed the same issues. I went out today and checked the fluid level but forgot the keys so I couldn’t start it. Cold the fluid was at the fill mark.

After doing a bit of reading this could be something as simple as being low on fluid or my kickdown needs adjusting. Worst case scenario I managed to smoke a transmission with a total of 20 feet of driving the car.

Transmission is a 727 with a Lupo built converter.
 
You check it hot in Neutral while running with the parking brake set.

upload_2021-9-21_17-21-33.png


What color was the fluid? If it dark red and smells burnt you have issues.
 
I had the same problem recently after refilling the transmission after having it rebuilt. The dipstick showed "overfilled" but the vehicle didn't move (and I had poured one quart of ATF directly into the torque convertor before sliding it on). Finally, after moving the gear shift all around through Park, R, N, etc. it reacted and now the dip stick shows more than a pint low. Must have been the torque convertor taking awhile to re-fill on its own (in my case). Can't say if you have a similar quirk or not.
 
dibbons said:
I had the same problem recently after refilling the transmission after having it rebuilt. The dipstick showed "overfilled" but the vehicle didn't move (and I had poured one quart of ATF directly into the torque convertor before sliding it on). Finally, after moving the gear shift all around through Park, R, N, etc. it reacted and now the dip stick shows more than a pint low. Must have been the torque convertor taking awhile to re-fill on its own (in my case). Can't say if you have a similar quirk or not.
Click to expand...

I filled the converter. Very sure of that.
 
My transmission would be fine when parked for a couple of days, but any longer than that and I would find tranny fluid on the floor. Maybe it was drain back from the convertor? I never could figure that one out.
 
Drainback can be a problem and is a known problem on the later RAM/ Dakotas. I usually start the thing in neutral with my foot on the brake NOT park. This allows the thing to properly fill. The hydraulic circuits are DIFFERENT in the trans between N and P. You MUST check fluid in N, not P

Try that and see if it makes a difference
 
67Dart273 said:
Drainback can be a problem and is a known problem on the later RAM/ Dakotas. I usually start the thing in neutral with my foot on the brake NOT park. This allows the thing to properly fill. The hydraulic circuits are DIFFERENT in the trans between N and P. You MUST check fluid in N, not P

Try that and see if it makes a difference
Click to expand...
True.
My 96 1500 4x4 did that.
Change the main valve , updated versions send flow to the convertor in park.
I still put it in neutral right after I fire it up anyways out of habit 'the rebuild and out and in labor cost me 2,700' ouch.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
True.
My 96 1500 4x4 did that.
Change the main valve , updated versions send flow to the convertor in park.
I still put it in neutral right after I fire it up anyways out of habit 'the rebuild and out and in labor cost me 2,700' ouch.
Click to expand...

I’m hoping that is all it is but I’ve never had that issue in the past. I’ll check the fluid with the car running tomorrow and since it will be in neutral at that time it should help with the drain back issue to. If neither of those things help then we got bigger issues.
 
So it sat for a while due to brake issues...how free are those brakes now?

(My point is, if the brakes are locked up, it would be like trying to drive it with the park brake on...of course it doesn't roll freely and needs some extra RPM)
 
I have a 1992 Dodge 350 van with a three speed overdrive transmission and roller 360 la. Every time it sits for an extended period of time does not want to move till the motor hits around 2500 RPMs but after it warms up it runs like a champ.
 
67Dart273 said:
Drainback can be a problem and is a known problem on the later RAM/ Dakotas. I usually start the thing in neutral with my foot on the brake NOT park. This allows the thing to properly fill. The hydraulic circuits are DIFFERENT in the trans between N and P. You MUST check fluid in N, not P

Try that and see if it makes a difference
Click to expand...
Yep. The pump runs in N
 
diymirage said:
So it sat for a while due to brake issues...how free are those brakes now?

(My point is, if the brakes are locked up, it would be like trying to drive it with the park brake on...of course it doesn't roll freely and needs some extra RPM)
Click to expand...

Brakes weren’t the issue. When I put it on the trailer there were no brakes at all.
 
The dipstick on our 1992 Jeep Cherokee is printed "check level in park". Somewhere along the line the "check in neutral" protocol has changed (not sure when, why, or how). All the older Mopars are advised to check in "N" as mentioned above.
 
Slip it into N after starting to let the pump fill all the pressurized cavities. It doesn't do that in P.
 
I'd recomend everyone do this, especially if you question where full is on your tranny stick...

I had an issue with mine a while back where it began puking fluid after a fluid change.

Pull the pan. Leave the stick in. Put the gasket on and lay a straight edge across the pan surface. That's fulll. Check it against the full line on your stick. Mine was seriously overfilling the transmission, thus why it was puking fluid.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'd recomend everyone do this, especially if you question where full is on your tranny stick...

I had an issue with mine a while back where it began puking fluid after a fluid change.

Pull the pan. Leave the stick in. Put the gasket on and lay a straight edge across the pan surface. That's fulll. Check it against the full line on your stick. Mine was seriously overfilling the transmission, thus why it was puking fluid.
Click to expand...

I only question where full is when the car is cold. I’ve check it correctly before but never done it cold.
 
doogievlg said:
I only question where full is when the car is cold. I’ve check it correctly before but never done it cold.
Click to expand...

It's meant to be checked hot, in neutral.

If you are filling after a service I fill it to full line cold, not running. Start it, put it in neutral, recheck and keep adding until you're close. Get it to temp and check/ fill one more time.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'd recomend everyone do this, especially if you question where full is on your tranny stick...

I had an issue with mine a while back where it began puking fluid after a fluid change.

Pull the pan. Leave the stick in. Put the gasket on and lay a straight edge across the pan surface. That's fulll. Check it against the full line on your stick. Mine was seriously overfilling the transmission, thus why it was puking fluid.
Click to expand...
Had that happen to me before.
 
roccodart440 said:
It's meant to be checked hot, in neutral.

If you are filling after a service I fill it to full line cold, not running. Start it, put it in neutral, recheck and keep adding until you're close. Get it to temp and check/ fill one more time.
Click to expand...

It was a little over a quart low. Runs like a champ.
 
With our '92 Cherokee we recently started to notice a delay engaging the gears from a stop, it was a quart low on ATF also.
 
doogievlg said:
At this point I’m not sure if this is a transmission issue or a kickdown issue so I’m posting in in here. My car has been sitting a long time due to brake issues. Went to load it onto the trailer Saturday and noticed it was really struggling to get up the ramps. It finally got up there at around 3000 RPM. Backed it off the trailer and onto the lift and noticed the same issues. I went out today and checked the fluid level but forgot the keys so I couldn’t start it. Cold the fluid was at the fill mark.

After doing a bit of reading this could be something as simple as being low on fluid or my kickdown needs adjusting. Worst case scenario I managed to smoke a transmission with a total of 20 feet of driving the car.

Transmission is a 727 with a Lupo built converter.
Click to expand...
high stall convetor? i think its a convertor . it can't be the kick down issue is the trany full did u put in dextron III IN IT?
 
Rat Bastid said:
The converter drains back while it sits. So you have to check it hot while it’s in neutral.
Click to expand...
Long term storage or sitting the converter can drain back. There is a drainback valve to stop that. If overnight it drains back, that valve is likely not functioning correctly. Not running the oil level should be high by an inch or so. When started cold it should be a bit low but in the operating range. If cold and it is even close to the low mark, go for a 3 to 5 mile drive to get the oil up to temperature, then check and top up if required.
 
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