Oil filter housing leaking, can't get it to stop SB 273

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65 Valiant Vert

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Had the 90 degree adaptor off the engine multiple times. Finally went to two wagon wheel gaskets for where it mounts to the engine and a crush gasket at the bolt. Seemed to work for a while then it started leaking perfusely. Is there something I'am missing? I've tried everything I can think of. All mating surfaces are clean and as they are cast iron I don't think they could be warped. Is there a pressure valve in the housing that could be failing and causing increased pressure that oil blows by the gaskets. Hand tightened so as not to cross thread or have mating surfaces not come together before torquing to about 35 ft lbs. Kind of running out of ideas, tryed silicone, gasket maker everything seems to leak. Anyone run into a similiar problem?
 
Got the gaskets on right?

oil filter adapter gaskets.jpeg
 
Also I have seen two types of circular gaskets. One is just a ring and one is like a wagon wheel with a centre part that I think is to take the place of the inner cork gasket. Anyway I have tryed all combinations with it leaking every time.
 
Use a thick copper washer between the head of the bolt and the 90 degree adapter, instead of the Mickey Mouse gasket. Use a thin layer of gasket sealer on both sides of the other 2 gaskets at the base, and it should not leak.
 
I had the area under the bolt-head itself leaking after re-installing an engine that had been in storage for a few years. Purchased a 1 3/16" combination wrench to tighten the bolt a bit more but strangely that did not stop the dripping from there.

I changed all three gaskets and it stopped the problem for now. But I must admit, leaks from under the bolt make no sense to me at all when the bolt is good and tight in the first place.
 
OK, maybe a dumb question, but are you 100% sure the original base gasket was removed before the new gaskets were put in?
 
Are you torquing the bolt correctly. Too much can warp the housing or crush the gasket.

You might also have a cracked 90 degree adapter that only opens up under pressure
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
50lbs is what the FSM says, but it does seem extreme.

Tim
Click to expand...
One of the reasons I don't use torque specs for anything except head bolts and rods and mains. All else is by hand according to bolt size and common sense. I also don't strip, twist, or break fasteners.
 
toolmanmike said:
One of the reasons I don't use torque specs for anything except head bolts and rods and mains. All else is by hand according to bolt size and common sense. I also don't strip, twist, or break fasteners.
Click to expand...

Same here. I use the grunt system. That bolt should be 2.5 grunts past snug.
I think most people's problem with these leaking is the surfaces were not cleaned properly. All it takes is a small piece of old gasket to cause a leak. I have never had one leak using the standard gaskets. I use a skim of indian head shellac on them.
 
Thanks for all the opinions. Yes the surfaces are all cleaned off even with brake cleens to make sure they are clean. I think I am at the maybe the housing is cracked point. I know I have not overtightned the bolt but with taking it off a total of 7 times I
am just about ready to tighten the **** out of it! I'am like toolman have a feel for torque and don't use a torque wrench especially on that bolt when its in the car, how would you. Anyway nobody commented on the gaskets. Is there two different kinds the wagonwheel and the large round flat O ring for mating to the block? I am going to try a different adaptor all together, I think I have one somewhere. I am also going to have to buy new gaskets. Put the whole car together myself after completely rebuilding and this has been the most frustrating problem I have run into. The car ran and passed certification the first time with no problem. This problem is definetely a head scratcher. I will keep you posted and let you all know when I get to the bottom of this.
 
Both but just a little from the bolt, more from the circumference as far as I can tell, oil drips all over. Last time I put it together it was not leaking, went for a half hour drive, came back a little drip maybe a couple of drops. Next day started the car backed out of the garage and massive leak??? As the car warmed up seemed to be less leaking happening. Maybe a crack but you would think as it warmed up it would leak more!!
 
65 Valiant Vert said:
How is a picture of a leaking adaptor going to give anymore information than has already been posted???
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It would show us exactly which parts you're working with. There are several different 90 degree adapters and center bolts along with gasket kit numbers. Block surface would be nice also.

You mention "wagon wheel" gasket, I am willing to bet that as you tighten the center bolt it grabs the "hub" which draws the "spokes" inward causing the "rim" to distort enough to cause a leak. :thankyou:
 
OK, leaking from the circumference of the adapter housing, there aren't too many possibilities. Either the housing is warped or cracked, or the original gasket is still in the block. As for the last, I've seen an old gasket that was embedded in the block so well, and was the same color as the cast iron of the block, that it looked like there was no gasket there. But pry on it with a knife or small screwdriver, and it comes out. Either way, the adapter has to come out to see what's up.

Oh, and I think the wagon wheel gasket is the wrong gasket for using the right angle adapter.
 
FB cuda you have some great thoughts but I have tryed both gaskets as well as doubling up with two wagon wheel gaskets, having better temporary leak stoppage with double wagon wheels. As far as the block and adaptor goes they are stock from a 1966 formula S numbers matching motor. I have struggled to upload photos to this site so that's why no photos. All surfaces are for sure clean and dry especially after 7 trys I know they are clean. Someone mentioned a copper gasket under the bolt head, that might be a good try to give constant pressure on the housing adaptor maybe better than a fiber washer to keep constant pressure on the block to adaptor gasket once the bolt is tightened. Also Mancini racing have a bolt and gasket package and they say the bolt is stronger than stock so that may be worth a try, but you can only tighten a hollow bolt so tight or you could wreck threads somewhere and the worst place would be at the block, that would be the end. The inner mancini gasket for the bolt looks to be nylon instead of cork and doesn't look as thick as the cork so not sure about that but I'am running out of ideas. Anyway a leak is a leak no matter where its coming from and there are only so many combinations of gaskets and sealents that can be used. I think the adaptor could have a crack or warped somehow even though it is cast iron and I would think hard to warp with that hollow bolt tightened to just over snug. I think the only idea is to try a different adaptor, maybe the Mancini gaskets and bolt but everything has to work together or of course something could leak and as said a leak is a leak and unacceptable no matter where its coming from bolt or motor it just seems one will leak more in my case. The one at the motor.
 
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