Oil filter housing leaking, can't get it to stop SB 273

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Just remember that always what appears is not necessarilly the problem! Alloy rocker covers can leak and the oil runs down the back and drips off the filter area. I has a persistent leak that I thought was from the filter area but after pulling the engine out I could see a crack at the oil pressure switch hole. The pressure switch has a tapered thread and if over tightened it will crack that area and the oil will run down the back and appear to be comming from the oil filter area. I slightly ground the crack and JB welded it and it hasn't leaked since!
 
Had the same problems and chased it like you. Finally fixed the problem by inserting 1/2 copper pipe sleeve in adapter where bolt fits into sleeve. If the bolt you have is not tight around the sleeve, problems will continue. Using the gasket kits is correct, but the adapter must be snug around the bolt or the gasket sets don't have a chance. With the copper sleeve in the adapter it help all the gaskets seal even the copper one used on the blot that comes with the kit. If you need a picture drawn, PM me.
 
Success!!! Got another adaptor with the same part number on it. It had a different head on the bolt. It was a 3/4 bolt and the one I had on the other was I believe 1 3/16 bolt. Anyway changed the adaptor with a little gasket maker on the circuliar engine mount gasket, did up the bolt, snugged it securely and presto, it doesn't seem to leak. As there was no cork inner gasket on the new bolt I didn't even use a cork gasket, mostly cause I didn't have one. I don't know if it was the bolt or the housing that was leaking but it seems all leaks are fixed now.
 
Some people believe the oil does not filter without the inner cork gasket. I don't know about that or what the purpose of it is either (but I always make sure to use all three gaskets).
 
What i have found in the 67 FSM

Slant 6 and 426 hemi "oil filter adapter bolt" 3/4 x16 is 30 lbs.

Thats where i would start.

Just had a thought... What if the combination of parts you have has a bolt too long and you are bottoming out the bolt before tightening the adapter?

Or there is some crud in the threaded hole?
 
I have seen three 1965-66 Formula S blocks that have never had a cork gasket on the inside of the housing on the bolt. The cork gasket was no where to be found in two complete gasket sets that I have bought. The only time I seen a cork gasket was when I did research to fix this problem. Upon close examination of the adaptor and bolt the bolt threads into the block where it comes right from the oil pump then the oil has to go through the filter and then out of the filter to go up the engine to oil all parts. That is where the large round gasket seals those passages from leaking. So what I did is change the fiber washer under the bolt face to a nylon washer, used the large round flat composite gasket for the engine to adaptor seal with a little gasket maker on it. Tightened the bolt to just past snug, I mean a good grunt on the wrench past snug and everything is tight and clean, no leaks. This block was all boiled and cleaned before it was rebuilt so there was never anything in any passage or threads so that was not a concern and all gasket mating surfaces clean as a whistle. Where that cork gasket is would not seal threads to the oil pump very effectively as it is just around the bolt held tight by the housing pushing on it, any oil that would leak from the threads of the bolt would be so little that it should not be of any concern as far as filtered or not filtered oil. Hope this all makes sense to all of you but like I said it is completely fixed now with all surfaces bone dry, no leaks
 
Thanks to all who bothered to post comments regarding this problem. This forum is great as all of you are so invested in the hobby. Always having different comments allows us all to sometimes look outside the box to tackle different issues. Thanks again club I'am off to a car show today in my car that is not leaking oil!!!
 
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